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First Draught: an American-style IPA from Kensington Brewing Company

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Kensington Brewing Company’s second beer, Baldwin FishEYE-PA, needs a bit of explaining. The name refers to the densely packed row of fishmongers on Baldwin Street, around the corner from the brewery’s current home at 156 Augusta. The brewery’s Michael Gurr says: “For us, it’s about finding a connection to the neighbourhood around us through the names of our beers.”

Craft-brewed IPAs depend on hops for their bright aromas and bracing bitterness. Each variety of hops contributes a different group of aromas and varying levels of bitterness.

As they developed this recipe, the brewers at Kensington concentrated on dry hopping, using four American varieties of hops: Citra, Cascade, Chinook and Amarillo. Given that the brewery once experimented with growing its own hops (on a very small scale), it makes sense that both of its beers are hop-focused ales (a new offering, to be released in April, will be a watermelon wheat beer).

By toning down the Citra in favour of Amarillo, FishEYE’s final version strikes a complex balance between sweet and bitter. The orange caramel colour (darker than many other IPAs) is a good foreshadowing for the first taste of sweet malt, which is quickly followed by a citrusy bitterness that lingers pleasantly. The closest flavour association I can draw is homemade marmalade with thick-cut pieces of Seville orange peel.

If 6.5 per cent alcohol (not to mention a bracing 65 IBUs) seems like a bit much for a breakfast beer — no matter how well it would go with a toasted and buttered English muffin — save this for a lunch of Indian food. A well-balanced IPA pairs much better with spicy lamb rogan josh or vegetable biryani than the pale, fizzy lagers that are brewed in India and exported globally. 

FishEYE will join Augusta Ale as a full-time listing at the LCBO in May. Until then, it can be found at a long list of Toronto bars that includes Bar Hop, Thirsty & Miserable, and Bryden’s.

Kensington Brewing Company’s Baldwin FishEYE-PA, on tap and in cans at various bars around the city

In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including Spotlight Toronto and his own site, Food With Legs. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter.

Grab of the Week: a mysterious (but fashionable) charm bracelet from a local jewellery designer

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This new third eye bracelet from local jewellery brand Biko tops our list as one of the best spring/summer accessories to own this year. The only problem is that purchasing a charm like this for yourself is considered bad luck; in order for it to protect you, it will need to be given to you by someone else.

We suggest some aggressive hinting to family members, loved ones and anyone who cares about your well-being — even acquaintances! — to gift you with this great piece.

Third eye bracelet, $95. Available at ilovebiko.com

Gracie Carroll is a Toronto-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in ELLE UK, ELLEcanada.com, Plaid magazine and FILLER magazine. Keep up with her daily blog at www.graciecarroll.com.

Q&A: Sook-Yin Lee on the Rhubarb Festival, Olivia Chow and dealing with stage fright

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The 34th annual Rhubarb Festival kicks off today, featuring over 100 artists partaking in theatre, performance art and more. Once such artist is Sook-Yin Lee, who writes, directs and performs in How Can I Forget? We caught up with the CBC host and former MuchMusic VJ to talk about the show.  

What will you be doing at the Rhubarb Festival this month?
Mounting my first theatrical experimental live narrative. It has aspects of videos and prose and poetry, and there are a lot of firsts here. I’m also dancing with my partner and collaborator, who is a dance and performance artist.

Why is this festival important?
It’s an exciting community of people touching on all sorts of radical and curious areas. I think it’s important because it allows us to go to those places and wrestle with them and create a dialogue and create a space where it’s about pushing and confronting and enjoying and having pleasure. It seems to be important because it allows you to go to areas of the human experience that lights aren’t usually shone upon.

Why did you decide to participate in the festival?
It was like having to deal with memories that were plaguing me, and I did not have a structure for a movie script. I was just in a confounded state of deep sorrow over particular things in my life and, of course, I turned to art to figure out what was going on.

You’re new to the whole theatre thing. Are you nervous?
Yes! Of course I’m nervous. There’s a lot more lines. The good thing is that it’s about remembering and forgetting, so if I forget my lines, I can just have someone shout them from above and then it’s all part of it.

You’re also portraying Olivia Chow in an upcoming movie about Jack Layton. Was that an emotional experience?
Having to transform and find that way into her and feel deeply what she was feeling, it was painful. Hers and Jack’s story is beautiful and painful and funny and a deeply tragic story.

Should she run for mayor?
I think she should run only if she wants to run. She’s done her time in the trenches. She’s much more than her political career. She’s a fantastic artist. I had no idea.

Rhubarb Festival, Buddies in Bad Times Theatre, Feb. 20 to March 3

Concert Review: Maroon 5 at the Air Canada Centre

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Like so many other things in life, a concert that looks good on paper doesn’t necessarily translate that way in practice. That was the case with Maroon 5’s cold, unaffecting show at the ACC last night.

The “looks good on paper” elements were plainly evident early on. The band’s reveal from behind a white curtain also introduced the crowd to an M-shaped stage. From there, some impressive screens during the show-opening “Pay Phone” gave way to a stunning laser show as part of “Lucky Strike,” which was later followed by a lights display featuring just about every tint you could find on a colour wheel.

There is, however, a vast difference between a colourful stage display and a colourful performance — and Maroon 5’s stage performance may as well have been shrouded in gray.

Lead singer Adam Levine was surprisingly drab, showcasing little of the charisma that has helped define him (no, Adam, teasing a T-shirt removal does not qualify as adequate stage presence). There was certainly none of the fire that Bon Jovi had in spades over the previous two nights in the building (the guitar skills, mind you, were considerable).

The songs were, well, just there. Credit the band for singing just about everything from its ever-growing category of radio-friendly hits, but the tracks weren’t sung with any added energy, nor were they allowed to breathe before the next track was quickly launched upon. In spite of an impressive arsenal of easily recognizable tunes, it’s hard to recall one standing out as special.

The problem may have had less to do with execution than planning.

The 1:45 set didn’t exactly leave time for any one song to sink in (heck, even the show-opening Neon Trees got 45 minutes). Before the crowd could cheer the end of “She Will Be Loved,” the band had already launched into the opening notes of the show-closing “Moves Like Jagger.” The advantage of a fast pace is that it maintains excitement, but the downside — which was more pronounced here — is the lack of any real sense of buildup. One song merely rolls into the opening bars of the next.

During Maroon 5’s Molson Amphitheatre show with Train in the summer of 2011, I remember thinking that Maroon 5 had stolen the show; that they deserved more than the 75 minutes they were given. But maybe, despite their ample song selection, they just aren’t built to go long.

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews Patria

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Editors note: Patria now has exterior signage, which it did not have at the time that this article was written.

How do you make something cool? Restaurants play the no sign game. If it has no sign, only cool people know where it is. Which is why we walk by Patria three times before asking in the nearby Weslodge. It’s down the laneway! With no signs.

Weslodge, like Patria, is owned by club king Charles Khabouth. What makes Charles run? Since 1981 he has opened around 25 large clubs and restaurants, 11 of which are apparently thriving. And he keeps opening them at a prodigious rate!

Which makes it easy to diss the guy as money-driven, prizing quantity over quality. It gets easier when we stand at Patria’s maître d’ station and the two hot young women there, who are not visibly otherwise engaged, both ignore us for a full minute. Geez, do they plan that as a way to appear exclusive? One of them then leads us to a table … in the bar! When we turn that down (having reserved for dinner), she leads us — at a jog — to a table in the actual dining room. No offer re coats until we hold one out to her: “Oh,” in apparent surprise: “Would you like to check your coat?”

The dining room is both beautiful (two floors, interesting lighting and a giant embroidered art installation, plus a wall of wine bottles) and very noisy, thanks to all the hard surfaces.

Foodies would not gravitate to a Khabouth resto. But he has copped Hanif Harji (Kultura, Nyood) as a partner, which bodes well food-wise. So well. Shockingly well, for the club king.

The $30 jamón ibérico de bellota, cured for three years, is worth every penny, makes prosciutto seem bland, tastes nutty from the acorns the black hoof free-range pigs ate.

Patria brings in artisanal wines and cheeses from Spain and serves the cheeses at room temperature, with sweet/tart quince jelly and grilled oil-kissed sourdough bread. Their Spanish blue is a farmhouse product that gives French Roquefort a run for its money.

The menu offers tapas and mains, a parade of authentic southern Spanish delights: chickpeas stewed with spinach, which would have been even better minus the (authentic) almond extract. A glorious salad topped with splendidly greasy house-fried artichoke chips. Creamy/crisp manchego croquettes.

The kitchen’s only error is overcooking sea bream baked in salt crust (which brings out the fish’s sweetness), another southern Spanish item. Also very Spanish and more correctly cooked is fideos with clams and chorizo, short thin pasta stewed in spicy tomato broth, infused with smoke from chorizo, atop perfectly cooked fat clams.

None of this gustatory delight is usually Khabouth’s style, hence our gratitude at his new partnership with Mr. Harji, who is clearly responsible for the flavour uptick in the land of the club king. Patria’s executive chef is Stuart Cameron, who was at Kultura under Harji.

All of which goes to show that Charles Khabouth really is the smartest guy opening restaurants in Toronto today — because he hired the right guy to fix the food, and was smart enough to make him a partner.

Patria, 478 King St. W., $100 Dinner for two

Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cordon Bleu de Cuisine in Paris. She has written articles for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chatelaine, and she was the Globe and Mail’s restaurant critic for 38 years.

Drink This: the chocolate raspberry mousse martini from Boutique Bar

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Boutique Bar has been teasing the Church Street coterie with its martinis for almost three years now. The swish spot is outfitted with plenty of nouveau rococo pieces, while an electric fireplace next to the bar adds a touch of warmth. Co-owner Julien Salomone has crafted an extensive cocktail menu that’s ideal for an after-work tipple.

We fell for the chocolate raspberry mousse martini ($10), one of Salamone’s winter libations. Aiming to recreate the sumptuous dessert, the libation blends Polar Ice vodka with McGuinness dark crème de cacao liqueur, Chambord liqueur and a daily-made raspberry puree. Dark chocolate shavings add a final, decadent touch.

Boutique Bar, 506 Church St., 647-705-0006

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Demanding satisfaction, hipster style: two Toronto events are artful competitions of creativity

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Imagine if the movie Fight Club was about a secret society featuring competing painters and writers instead of, well, fighters. That’s the concept behind two new creative crazes hitting Toronto: Art Battle, an event going down later this month, and the Write Club, which is happening tonight.

Art Battle is a monthly painting competition where painters create the best work they can in 20 minutes. Simon Plashkes and Chris Pemberton started the event back in 2009 and have seen its audience grow from 70 to 300.

There are three rounds during the event, wherein four artists are selected at random by drawing names from a hat. The selected artists are provided a canvas and the same quantity and colours of acrylic paint, and they then have 20 minutes to create their masterpiece while music plays and drinks are poured.

The audience selects its favourites at the end of each round until a winner is declared. The paintings are sold in a silent auction at the end of the night. Any unspoken-for works of art are destroyed, which apparently is a pretty cool sight to behold.

There are now Art Battles cross the country, drawing fighting artists all the way from Vancouver to Halifax.

In a similar vein, the Write Club also pits writers against writers in a literal battle of the wits. Originally founded in Chicago in 2010, the Toronto edition was launched in late 2012 by Alicia Merchant and Catherine McCormick.

The concept is a fast-paced literary reading with some pretty simple rules: three rounds, two opposing writers with two opposing ideas and seven minutes for each side to make their argument more compelling. Like Art Battle, it’s the audience who makes the final call and crowns the write-ful winner. With the seven-minute time limit, the pressure gets high and the evening can get pretty cutthroat.

The evening is not for the meek writer who enjoys solitude — which is probably why events like these are important to the city’s art community. Art Battle and the Write Club bring solitary artistic activities into the limelight and remind some of us that sometimes it’s not only necessary to kill our darlings, it’s fun to do it, too.

Write Club Toronto, The Garrison, 1197 Dundas St. W., 416-519-9439. Feb. 19, 8 p.m.
Art Battle Toronto
, The Great Hall, 1087 Queen St. W., 416-537-0803. Feb. 26, 7: 30 p.m.

Toronto Style Radar: The Jewellery Local, Free People, Holt Renfrew, Five Pop Ups, The Artist Project

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Every Tuesday, we round up the best events from the city’s fashion scene. In this edition: a braid party in Yorkville, a pop-up shop featuring local jewellery designers, prom advice from Lisa Tant and more.  

The Jewellery Local

When: Feb. 21, 6-10 p.m.
Where: 461 King St. West, Second Floor
Details: If your jewellery box is lacking pieces from local talent, here’s your chance to stock up at a one-stop pop-up shop. The Jewellery Local will feature 20 local jewellery vendors along with baked treats from Desmond & Beatrice, plus oysters and bubbly to enjoy while shopping.


Boho Braids from Free People and Daniel Salon

When: Feb. 22, 4-7 p.m.
Where: Free People, 79 Yorkville Ave.
Details: Before you head for your big night out on Friday, be sure to stop by Free People’s Yorkville location for some complimentary hair braiding and hot chocolate. If you’re not sure about your outfit choice, in-store stylists will be on hand to assist you in finding the perfect duds.


Prom Event with Lisa Tant at Holt Renfrew

When: Feb. 23 2:30-3 p.m.
Where: Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St.
Details: If you’re heading to prom this year (or if you know someone who is) chances are you (or they) are in need of some prom fashion guidance. Who better to help out than one of Canadian fashion’s leading ladies, Lisa Tant? Head to Holt Renfrew this Saturday for her presentation and shopping event.


New Stock Sale at Five Pop Ups

When: Now until March 3
Where: Five Pop Ups, 1695 Bayview Ave.
Details: Five Pop Ups has just flipped its store, bringing in a ton of new brands. To celebrate the flip, the store is selling off its old merchandise for $50 or less per item. Enjoy premium denim brands such as J Brand, Rich & Skinny, Denham and more. In terms of new items, expect Malene Birger, Pink Tartan, Robert Rodriguez and more.


The Artist Project Opening Night Event

When: Feb. 21, 7-10 p.m.
Where: Better Living Centre, Exhibition Place
Details: Who’s the next big thing in the arts scene? Find out at this year’s edition of The Artist Project, running from Feb. 21-24, which will feature rising stars of the contemporary art world.

Concert Review: Bon Jovi at the Air Canada Centre

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Map out your idea of a custom-made, surefire rock star from the ground up and you are likely to come up with someone bearing an awful close resemblance to Jon Bon Jovi. From his megawatt smile to his stage presence to his arena rock voice to his boundless charisma, the seemingly forever-touring JBJ is the embodiment of a true rock star.

That is not to downplay the contributions of his bandmates — guitarist Richie Sambora, keyboardist David Bryan, and drummer Tico Torres — but, hey, it’s his surname in the band title for a reason.

Jon and the boys were back at the ACC on Sunday night for the first of two shows. JBJ the rock star was unmistakably on display, as was his undying dedication to putting forth a genuinely energetic, unique, passionate performance every night. I have now seen him in concert seven times and not once (even on consecutive nights) has he employed the same set list.

Sunday night’s carefully crafted set list opened with “You Give Love a Band Name,”  which boldly announced the band’s arrival in front of an adoring crowd, many of whom had been waiting 90 minutes after the gates opened early.

Having gained early momentum, the show shifted quickly into audience participation mode with “Lost Highway,” which saw the crowd gamely playing along with some timely “hey heys.” Fans also came alive to sing the chorus of “Livin’ on a Prayer” later in the set (although it was one of the rare songs that demonstrated trace amounts of fatigue from JBJ).

Any steam that the crowd lost along the way could be attributed to the introduction of several tracks off the as-of-yet unreleased album, What About Now, although they did respond well to first single, “Because We Can.”

Of course, the two-and-a-half hour set left plenty of time for the classics, including lively versions of “Wanted Dead or Alive,” “Bad Medicine” and “I Love This Town” — a show closer that allowed the band to return some love to the faithful Toronto fans. That song in particular was one of the best examples of Bon Jovi’s spectacular stage setup, which included innovative mobile screens that featured an artist’s rendering of the T.O. skyline during the show’s finale.

Of course, that’s assuming that any of the 18,000 in attendance were actually looking at anything beyond the band’s captivating presence.

Author Yann Martel hits Toronto to talk about his four-year letter-writing campaign to the PM

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Nobody can accuse Canadian author Yann Martel of not following through on his ideas. His latest book, What is Stephen Harper Reading?, chronicles a passionate four-year campaign that involved sending a book and a letter to Prime Minister Stephen Harper two times per month. Martel is in town tomorrow to take part in a Kama Reading Series event.

Martel’s story begins in 2007, when he and a group of Canadian artists descended to Ottawa en masse to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Canada Council for the Arts — to some, a rather big deal. Not the Stanley Cup, but still. Prime Minister Stephen Harper and company gave the group the cold shoulder, barely acknowledging its existence, let alone celebrating its vast contributions to Canadian culture. Martel was moved to action.

On April 16, 2007, Martel sent off a copy of Tolstoy’s The Death of Ivan Ilyich, along with a thoughtful letter outlining his reasons for choosing the book and his hopes of hearing back from the country’s headmaster. And he did it 100 more times over the course of four years before finally stopping at 101 in 2011.

Did he hear back? He did receive a couple of words from an underling of one type or another, but nothing from “the man” himself.

“I gather that he was made aware of my little campaign when it started,” says Martel. “But being an entirely political animal and nothing else, he must have decided that it could do him no harm, and so he has studiously ignored it.”

But it isn’t like Martel only sent the heavyweights such as Tolstoy. On his exhaustive list are a few Toronto books — including Dave Bidini’s Tropic of Hockey, and King Leary by the late, great Paul Quarrington — which might, in theory, be right up the PM’s literary alley.

It is for this reason, among others, that Martel is left perplexed and a little miffed at the four-year snub.

“A strange thing that he should refuse to discuss his reading habits. Why shouldn’t he say, ‘I like this or that book?’” Martel says. “I think he’s embarrassed to admit that he hasn’t read any novel, play or poem in 30 years. The reading habits of ordinary citizens is none of anyone else’s business, but I think we expect more of our prime ministers — who should be exceptional beings, no? We want them to be well-rounded and wise, no? And I don’t know how one can be well-rounded and wise in our complex, literate society without reading.”

Despite failing to meet his goal of reaching and corresponding with Stephen Harper, Martel’s What Is Stephen Harper Reading? is a splendid read, and his letters outlining the books and what they might offer are wonderful in and of themselves, in addition to inspiring readers to delve into the tomes.

One book not on the list is Life of Pi, Martel’s groundbreaking 2001 novel that has been turned into one of the most visually stunning and critically acclaimed films of 2012. A book that will take Martel to the Oscar ceremony in Hollywood this month.

“I loved writing Life of Pi, and I loved its success. It’s so rare to have a book connect with so many readers,” says Martel, who calls director Ang Lee’s movie “visually ravishing and faithful to the book.”

Kama Benefit Reading Series with Yann Martel and Elizabeth May, The Park Hyatt Toronto, 4 Avenue Rd. Feb 20

Rise and shine: Dina Pugliese on celeb gossip, Justin Bieber and being a morning person

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When it comes to interviewing morning television hosts, there’s an unwritten rule in journalism. It goes like this: the writer asks the star how they manage to be so lively at 6 a.m., the star claims not to be a morning person, and jokes about caffeine addiction ensue.

Dina Pugliese breaks this rule. “I’m absolutely a morning person,” says the Breakfast Television host.

At an hour when many people’s cognitive abilities extend only as far as the snooze button, Pugliese is busy cracking jokes with the presenters and crew on the popular morning show. “As soon as you walk in the studio, everybody is laughing and doing high-fives,” she says, making a pre-dawn start to the work day sound like an unexpectedly cheery prospect. 

Since taking over from Liza Fromer on Citytv’s breakfast show in 2006, Pugliese has become one of the most recognizable faces in morning television. Her warm, enthusiastic style has won her both fans and awards as she chats and banters her way through each morning’s news, celeb interviews and latest lifestyle trends.

The morning slot is a natural fit for Pugliese, a Toronto native who loves the city and who is a self-confessed junkie for celeb news and gossip. (At the start of our interview, she spends several minutes talking, not unlike a teenage girl, about her love for Justin Bieber.)

Though you’d never know it now, Pugliese says she was timid when she was younger and, after graduating from York University and Humber College, started her TV career behind the camera as a producer. But her charming on-camera presence (not to mention her camera-friendly looks) was spotted pretty quickly, and she was picked up as an entertainment reporter for The A-List and Star! Daily before moving to breakfast TV.

“Honestly, the most exciting part of my day is over by 9 a.m.”

Though the 3 a.m. starts take their toll on her personal life — “You can’t go out for dinner, you have to arrange your whole life according to your hours” — Pugliese says the early starts are worth it for the connection the show has with its audience.  

“We have the most loyal viewers,” she says. “They get in touch and say the show has helped them get through their maternity leave, or if they get back home after working nights, it helps them relax before going to sleep.”

After wrapping the show, Pugliese spends up to an hour shooting off Twitter messages to dozens of viewers who get in touch daily with comments about the show or questions about where a piece of clothing or jewellery she was wearing comes from.

Although she Tweets out scores of messages every day, Pugliese denies that she’s a fanatic for social media. “I was actually the last in our group of presenters to get on Twitter,” she says. But it wasn’t for a lack of things to say.

“I’m a very social being, and I can’t cope with people saying, ‘Hi,’ and moving on — if someone working in a store offers me help, I often say OK even if I don’t need it because I don’t want to be rude. So I knew that if someone reached out to me, I’d have to respond. I knew that going on Twitter would be like getting a second job.”

But for all the time this correspondence takes up, Pugliese says she enjoys the interaction with the viewers. “I love the immediacy of Twitter. It’s similar to the immediacy of television.”

Last year Pugliese got to experience another of television’s strengths: the demonstration of raw human emotion. Stepping off the breakfast TV set and into the presenter’s spot on Canada’s Got Talent, Pugliese witnessed up-close all the tears, triumphs and tantrums in the Canadian spinoff of the British reality talent show series.

Though used to celebrity drama from her days as an entertainment reporter, Pugliese says nothing could have prepared her for the task of repeatedly having to kill the dreams of hopefuls who had fallen short of making it on to the next round.

“I’m a crier. You just have to do math or something in your head while you are delivering the news or you will be a mess,” she says. The times she had to fly across the country just to tell an act they hadn’t made it to the live finale were particularly tough. “But 30 minutes later you’re telling someone they made it, and that’s really happy,” she adds.

Still, Pugliese would have already been familiar with television’s emotional roller coaster, courtesy of one of her favourite pastimes: watching reality TV.

“Put the words ‘Real Housewives’ in front of anything, and I’ll watch it,” Pugliese says. As if to prove her devotion, she begins mulling over what might be in store for the next season of Real Housewives of Vancouver (cast changes are afoot, and speculation is rife over who’s in and who’s been thrown aside like last season’s Gucci).

“They’re the modern-day soap opera,” she says. “You see all these people living these fabulous lives, and it’s a fun ride to watch. It’s escapism at its best,” she says.

When she’s not on TV or in front of it with a glass of Chianti watching a reality show, Pugliese has what she calls a pretty ordinary life. “Honestly, the most exciting part of my day is over by 9 a.m.,” she says, adding that she’s in the middle of her laundry as she speaks on the phone from her Etobicoke home.

She has a passion for jazz and, perhaps reflecting her Italian heritage, loves to cook. She makes a mean French toast — just don’t expect anything too extravagant. “I cooked a Thai curry the other day,” she says, “but by the time I’d bought all the ingredients, I’d spent $80 — next time I’m just going to a restaurant! I like to cook with whatever is in my cupboards.”

Breakfast TV hosts typically aren’t big partiers, but will Pugliese make an exception for Valentine’s Day and head out for a romantic meal with her husband? Probably not.

“I don’t feel that obligatory need to go to a restaurant and have a big meal,” she says. Instead, she and her husband, campayn.com founder Alek Mirkovich, prefer small gestures, such as exchanging flowers.

Plus, Pugliese says, because of her early mornings, if she were going to go to a restaurant, it would have to be at about 3 p.m.

“Tuesday afternoon is like Saturday night for us,” she says. “And we never have a problem getting a reservation.”

Comic Stripped: Jay Brown, Toronto’s comedy metalhead, is ready for prime time

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The emcee is the first comic the audience sees, and the emcee becomes the voice of the show and the representative of the club. It’s a job I used to do myself, but since I’ve retired from active performing, there’s one comic that’s my go-to emcee: Jay Brown.

I can imagine you scratching your heads trying to place the name. No, he’s not a star in this country, and that’s a pity. But he’s the best club emcee in Canada since Mike Bullard.

What makes Brown so good? Well, he is a perfect blend of friendly and authoritative. He can serve the corporate agenda of a VIP opening but still seem loose and alternative. Unlike too many comics, he doesn’t immediately launch into his own act but takes time to get to know the audience.

“I always approach the job that we’re all kids inside, sitting in a dark room being naughty, and I try to invoke the feeling that we’re all at a house party and I’m the big brother of the guy who invited you,” says Brown.

And he tells the audience where the washrooms are, a critical piece of information some emcees consider beneath them.

Brown is 42, Italian and takes care of his mother in her Woodbridge home. He’s single but is a legend around the circuit for having dated starlet Heather Locklear in the ’80s.

“I had her come see me perform stand-up, and … I bombed!”

Brown is still a handsome fellow, a big guy with his long dark hair slicked back and a hipster soul- patch on his chin. He calls himself the “metalhead of comedy.”

Another thing that makes Brown such a great emcee is that he knows a little bit about everything. A voracious reader, he can always be counted on for an intelligent quip when an audience member tries to stump him with an obscure profession or place of residence.

Most of his reading these days revolves around his passion for quantum physics. He can discuss it for hours — that is, when he’s not playing poker after hours. When he’s in New York, he’s a regular player with the Hammerdown Group, a clique of comedy poker heads such as Louis C.K., Sarah Silverman and David Letterman producer Eddie Brill. I wonder if he discusses quantum theory at that table.

Lately, Brown has been dealing with a health crisis. He suffers from severe gout, which I previously thought was a disease of dissolute 18th-century poets. But, it turns out, it is a painful, lifestyle-threatening inflammation. And that must be tough for an Italian boy raised on his Nonna’s gamberoni.

At a New Year’s Eve show last year, I put Brown on the bill even though he didn’t have the credits of most of the other comics. Just For Laughs has taken no notice of him. He was never asked to do a Comedy Now! show. But I thought he would rise to the occasion.

At the end of his set, capped off with a blazing guitar tribute to his heavy metal heroes, the audience of 2,100 cried out for an encore, the only time that has happened in the show’s 12-year history.

I know show business isn’t always fair. But isn’t there room for just one poker-playing, physics-loving, chopper-riding, gout-suffering, Locklear-dating star in this country?

Post City Magazines’ humour columnist, Mark Breslin, is the founder of Yuk Yuk’s comedy clubs and the author of several books, including Control Freaked.