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Just Desserts: five of Toronto’s most deliciously exotic ice-based treats

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Summer may be gone, but we’re still hoping for a hot day or 12. Since, as the Starks say, winter is coming, you might as well try something a little out of your comfort zone should a surprise summer day strike. Here are five exotic ice-based desserts that are sure to make saying goodbye to summer a little less bitter.

 

Sabai Sabai Kitchen’s “red rubies,” pictured above

We went bananas for chef Nuit Regular’s tub tim krob (“red rubies”). The coconut milk-based dessert is dotted with ruby-coloured pearls that represent pomegranate seeds. These “red rubies” are in fact diced water chestnuts, coated in tapioca flour and cooked in a red Thai syrup called sala. The result is a gummy bear-like exterior with a crunchy centre that pairs perfectly with the jasmine-infused, smoked coconut milk. The dish can be served hot, but we prefer it over crushed ice.
$5. Sabai Sabai Kitchen, 225 Church St., 647-748-4225

 

Kanto’s halo-halo

The halo-halo is a motley monster of a dessert. It’s kind of the Filipino version of a kitchen sink salad, except it’s swimming in condensed milk and loaded with crushed ice. The layered treat has a bit of everything in it: corn, flan, purple yam, mung beans, jelly, tapioca, banana, jackfruit, coconut, sugar palm fruit and vanilla ice cream. At Kanto by Tita Flips — which occupies one of the shipping containers at Market 707 — Diona Joyce replaces the ice cream with more flan because freezer space is at a premium. We recommend sharing, because the portion is ginormous.
$6. Kanto by Tita Flips, 707 Dundas St. W., 1-888-393-9990

 

Kekou’s Asian-inspired gelato

Kekou Gelato House is putting a distinctly Asian spin on the Italian summer classic, gelato. Some of the exotic fruit flavours available on one visit included soursop, jackfruit and the ever-pungent durian. But the showstopper was the chili-specked mango, which packs a serious punch.
$3.75-$4.75. Kekou Gelato House, 13 Baldwin St.

 

Sweet Vietnamese soup from Bánh Mì & Chè Cali

This sweet dessert soup, called chè, is originally from Vietnam, although you’ll see a few similar versions of it around Malaysia and Singapore. The dessert starts with a base of sweetened coconut milk and ice to which you can add kidney beans, mung beans, tapioca, jelly, aloe and fruits such as durian and lychee. We like how Bánh Mì & Chè Cali allows you to customize what you want in your chè, because sometimes you just don’t feel like finishing off a meal with legumes.
$2.50. Bánh Mì & Chè Cali, 318 Spadina Ave., 416-599-8948

 

Sweet Snow’s Hawaiian-style shave ice

There’s no texture quite like authentic shave ice — it’s like compacted snow, but not just any snow. You know those loonie-sized flakes? The ones that make for awesome snowman-making? Well, imagine that snow packed down and vivified with tropical fruit. The Sweet Snow Shave Ice food truck offers a wide array of natural fruit flavoured syrups like papaya, passion fruit or guava. Opt for the traditional Hawaiian version and add adzuki beans, vanilla ice cream and condensed milk.
$3.50-$4.50. Sweet Snow Shave Ice, @ShaveIceTO

 

Made In Toronto

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We enlisted the help of Toronto’s foremost fashion maven, Jeanne Beker, to give us her thoughts on local fashion innovators from around city. These daring designers are defying the odds by making clothing right here in Toronto. Herewith, a few words on what they do best (because you probably want to get to know a few of them, right?).

 

Meet Roots’ newest it girl — Bayview’s Amanda Lew Kee

Not long ago, Canadian leather goods stalwart Roots offered 24-year-old budding design phenom Amanda Lew Kee a tantalizing collaboration opportunity she couldn’t resist. The unorthodox staging of Lew Kee’s spring/summer 2013 collection — she paired outfits with cocktails and courses at the West Queen West restaurant Ursa — impressed Roots co-founder Michael Budman, who was curious to see what Lew Kee could do with Roots’ resources at her disposal.

The young designer looked to her Bayview upbringing for inspiration. “Men’s sweats were a big hit for the girls [at York Mills Collegiate Institute], but mainly as a borrowed-from- the-boyfriend look,which made sense on a comfort level,”says Lew Kee, whose collab, Canadian Born Natural Luxury, was inspired by the iconic Roots salt-and-pepper sweats. Along with sweats that have been urbanized with stitch creases and luxe hardware details, the joint effort also features Lew Kee’s trademark fitted leather jackets. — Caroline Aksich

Jeanne says: Her current collaboration with Roots is impressive, and she really understands how to translate edge in subtle, wearable ways.

This one’s right on target — North Toronto’s Sarah Stevenson

Sarah Stevenson’s Dutch still life–inspired collection wowed judges last April at the Toronto Fashion Incubator New Labels competition. Delicate floral prints were given edge when juxtaposed with laser-cut wools and sheer fabrics. The layering alone would’ve created a dramatic runway, but by restricting the collection to a tricolour palette (black, red, white), the runway sizzled with a vampish seductiveness. And the seduction must’ve worked because Stevenson won a $25,000 prize and a contract to create a limited edition Target collection that will be sold across Canada come spring.

We’re totally hyped to snatch up some of Stevenson’s bucolic-printed pieces, though we don’t expect the retail giant to carry the silks that the North Toronto–raised designer is known for using. Stevenson, who has a master’s degree in fashion and textile design, creates her own textiles, many of which are based on hand-drawn illustrations that she then digitally prints onto natural fabrics. — CA

Jeanne says: The dramatic graphics she concocts take her simple silhouettes to inspiring heights, and she manages to walk the line between art and nature with aplomb.

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Made in Toronto: Jeanne Beker on the daring local designers who are making clothes right here in the city

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We enlisted the help of Toronto’s foremost fashion maven, Jeanne Beker, to give us her thoughts on local fashion innovators from around city. These daring designers are defying the odds by making clothing right here in Toronto. Herewith, a few words on what they do best (because you probably want to get to know a few of them, right?).

Read the full story here

 

Drink This: Toronto Temperance Society’s Painkiller

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At the Toronto Temperance Society, a members-only bar, a slice of the past is served up smack dab in downtown Toronto. Over strains of jazz, well-versed barflies sip on classic libations crafted by renowned mixologist Oliver Stern. Surprisingly, the cocktail menu also features a series of tropical tiki numbers, which seem to be making a bit of a comeback.

The Painkiller ($16), which Stern says is his favourite of the bunch, is a monster of a cocktail. A tiki rum mix — Appleton, El Dorado and Wray & Nephew — is shaken with egg white, pineapple juice, orange juice, lime juice, coconut cream and bitters. Naturally, the whole affair is served over ice in a hefty tiki mug, finished with freshly grated cinnamon and, yes, an umbrella.

Toronto Temperance Society, 577A College St.

Karolyne Ellacott is a features editor at Post City Magazines. She pedals around town in heels, eating sandwiches and drinking cocktails. She writes about that, and about about other stuff too. She is also on Twitter.

For more must-try Toronto cocktails, check out our Pinterest page

 

Eating Gross Things: haggis at The Caledonian

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Back when I was a haggis virgin — so, last week — I thought the experience of eating this Scottish bro-food would be more, I don’t know, empowering. Haggis is offal stuffed inside offal; a textbook gross thing. I expected a frumpy dish, one that would be in some way offensive. I expected trepidation followed by a sense of victory. I got none of these things.

What I got was something that bordered on pretty, garnished with too-artisanal microgreens and parsnip chips. It was a symmetrical thing, a layered tower, with a patty of I’m going to say meat loaf set atop a bed of mashed root veg. There was a dainty rivulet of gravy. Conquering this would not earn anyone any kind of metaphysical badge of honour.

I blame the Internet for tainting my expectations.

This significant life moment — my first soiree with haggis, that is — took place at The Caledonian, a Scottish pub near College and Ossington. It is a pleasant place, with an admirable selection of Scottish beers. Haggis makes multiple appearances on the menu: it’s available as a main, as a side or as an appetizer in the form of fritters.

I ate The Caledonian’s haggis twice, and I’m still not sure exactly what is in it, because staff members seemed intent on not putting me in touch with the chef (one employee didn’t know the chef’s contact information “by heart,” while another said that the chef did not have an email address. Was anyone around who knew what went into the haggis? “No”).

Traditionally, haggis is made from rando sheep parts such as heart, liver and lungs, which is probably why it has a bad rap. The organs are minced up with oats, spices and suet (fat, essentially) and then stuffed into a sheep’s stomach. It’s pretty much a sausage, but more extreme. It’s Scotland’s national dish, and Scottish people are proud of it in a weird stoic way, kind of like Canadians are with poutine.

This particular haggis, for the most part, is forgettable pub food. It’s no more adventurous than ordering a hamburger. Certainly not gross in any way, but not great either. The menu describes it as “lamb, oats and spices.” Mostly, it just tastes like shepherd’s pie with oatmeal in it (too much oatmeal, in my opinion). It’s served without a casing, and if it contains much in the way of offal, it’s not immediately apparent. It also costs $16, which seems like a lot to charge for sheep scraps.

Conclusion: I remain hopeful that gross haggis exists in Toronto. It’s just not at The Caledonian.

Jon Sufrin is the editor of PostCity.com. For his column, Eating Gross Things, he eats things that are widely considered to be gross and writes about it. He has no scientific method to determine what “gross” means. The article is just meant to be fun, so relax. For more of his thoughts on stuff, gross and not, follow him on Twitter. If you would like to suggest a gross food item for him to try, email him at [email protected].

Chef’s Secret: how to make the All Star salad from Fresh

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Fresh, Toronto’s most well-recognized vegetarian restaurant chain, has been encouraging Torontonians to eat healthier since 1999. Now that it’s opening up shop on Eglinton, we asked head chef/co-owner Jennifer Houston to share her All Star salad with us.

“This is the best-selling salad on our menu, every season of the year,” she says. “The combination of kale and quinoa with the warm sweet potato and tofu steaks is simply delicious.”

Houston recommends pairing it with Fresh’s house dressing, but the dish works with other dressings, too.

 

See Recipe Here

 

Review: Sarah Silverman at Just for Laughs 42

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Gimmickry has been a staple of comedy since Jerry Lewis busted out his pitchy “lady!” voice — and probably well before that. It has made no shortage of comedic careers, plenty of which likely didn’t have the legs to make it on their own.

Sarah Silverman, gimmicky as she is with her sweetheart-saying-crude-things persona, clearly has talent, and the sharp, clever edge that she showcased during the recent James Franco roast appeared sporadically during her Friday night set at the Sony Centre for the Performing Arts. But all too often, adherence to familiarity and a squeaky persona took away from the actual humour.

Signs of Silverman’s quick wit emerged early in her hour-long routine as part of Just For Laughs 42. She singled out a 21-year-old fellow sitting in the front row and even invited him to sit alongside her on the stage. After immediately noting the irony of the pale-faced youngster’s first name being Tanner (because “he isn’t Tanner than anybody”), she proceeded to crank up the awkward factor with questions about his virginity and sexual preferences, garnering surprisingly game responses from her victim and an awful lot of laughs from the crowd.

Genuine laughs also greeted her keen observations about human behaviour, including an all-too-true bit about self-obsession under the guise of humility/self-depreciation (“Hey, you look great!” “No way, I’m fat and disgusting”). However, those were soon lost in a sea of jokes that tried too hard to be crass and vulgar at the expense of actually being funny (plenty of discussion centered around her vagina, masturbation and bowel movements).

When it was bad, the material ranged from the tasteless to the viscerally unpleasant to the straight-up unfunny (such as a closing song whose punchline seemed to be the word “cunt” sung over and over again).

Silverman’s set was made all the more jarring by its lack of flow. In what was supposed to be a funny, deliberate breach of standup form, she eschewed segues in favour of abrupt shifts from joke to joke and topic to topic. She acknowledged as much in a moment of self-awareness after transitioning from a joke about pornography to a story about her mother’s poor health, but it still gave a jarring, jumpy feel to the set.

In stark contrast to Silverman’s uninspired material was her opening act, the burly K. Trevor Wilson. Wilson, whose persona comes in the form of a soft-spoken mountain man, played it simple, telling a range of too-detailed-to-not-be-true stories. For instance, he recalled getting mugged (maybe true, maybe not) and asking for all of his cards back, since “it’s really hard and time-consuming to replace them.”

Silverman’s profile and lofty status in the comedy world comes from more than just an appealing gimmick. But her prepared standup material falls well short of what many have seen from the acid-tongued comedienne in her television specials and her work on the now-defunct Sarah Silverman Program.

Wanted: this unisex plaid jacket from Muttonhead

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For the first time in at least a decade, plaid has become a pattern endorsed by hipsters, outdoorsy types and fashion aficionados alike. Thanks to the gradual influx of everything ’90s on the runways and blogs, plaid, along with its various textile offsprings such as tartan, gingham and checks, has become the pattern-du-jour among pretty much everybody.

Worn casually with jeans or layered with grunge-inspired pieces like slip dresses, biker jackets and dark florals, the plaid shirt is a versatile and functional piece that appeals to both men and women, especially if you have an affinity for Winona Ryder, Empire Records and the band Sonic Youth.

This field jacket in black watch plaid, designed and manufactured by Toronto’s own Muttonhead, is a perfect example of plaid’s utilitarianism and unisex appeal. Like every single item produced by Muttonhead, this jacket is made for both men and women. It is also made with 100 per cent cotton oilcloth (to all you guys and gals out there without a degree in fashion and textiles, that’s woven cotton cloth coated with linseed oil, which makes the fabric completely waterproof and ideal for rainy and chilly autumn days).

If you are a dame and the idea of unisex clothing doesn’t immediately appeal to your more ladylike disposition, consider that the boyfriend jean, the blazer and the loafer all originated from menswear, not to mention the undeniable feminine allure of a woman in a men’s dress shirt.

This jacket, along with Muttonhead’s entire collection, is also manufactured sustainably and sweatshop-free. With guaranteed fair trade practices and a focus on “slow design” over fast fashion, Muttonhead offers classic pieces produced from high-quality and eco-friendly fabrics, and as such is a label that’s very easy to love.

$232. Available online at muttonheadcollective.com

For Serena Ryder, everything old is new again

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Serena Ryder is working hard, slinging albums off the stage like a kid at her first gig. All in an effort to crack the nut that is the American music market. Successful or not, it sounds like a lot of fun.

“It [Harmony] has been pretty phenomenal in Canada,” says Ryder, on the phone from Colorado. “For me, it is all starting again out here. Right now, I’m literally just starting my career over again.”

Ryder has been touring in support of hot American band One Republic. But she’s just one of a long string of openers. A place she hasn’t been for years — at least in Canada, where she’s used to selling out shows and headlining. Tonight, for example, she headlines her first show at the venerable Massey Hall as part of the Canada’s Walk of Fame Festival.

“I’ve been on tour a month now so far. It is really interesting,” she continues. “It is funny because I’ve had a lot of success in Canada and I’m at the very beginning again, wondering how it will be received.”

But based on her first single, she’s not going to have to wonder very long. “Stompa,” already a massive hit in Canada, spent a number of weeks at number one on the Billboard Triple A chart. It’s helped that her catchy tune has worked its way onto American television, including Grey’s Anatomy and a Cadillac commercial.

“‘Stompa” has been on many TV shows, reality TV, different things a lot of the teenagers have been noticing,” she says. “As soon as I play it, there is this exciting high school energy that happens. It is really exciting for me. I haven’t experienced that for a really long time.”

Not that winning Juno Awards and cranking out gold records in the homeland is any great burden. But Ryder does seem to be developing a renewed sense of purpose, and she’s having a good time while she’s at it. “Before this, my biggest market has been Mobile, Alabama,” she says. “I’m having more fun meeting fans after shows than I’ve had in ages.”

Meanwhile, back in the hinterland, Ryder was nominated for Casby Awards in every category (except new artist) — a first in the history of the awards that honour radio-friendly rock music played on stations such as the Edge in Toronto. It’s a big deal, and it speaks to Ryder’s unique ability to hit many different genres with her music.

“It’s pretty amazing,” says Ryder, who found out about the nominations from yours truly. “I never really thought that I would be played on the Edge, let alone be nominated in all the categories. That’s a huge deal and a big shock. I’m more of a CBC Radio girl.”

Personal accolades aside, Ryder, who has been very open about her long battle with depression leading up to the release of her latest album, Harmony, is all about keeping it real.

“Success can waver, up and down. It’s about how you feel in your life, not the numbers of CDs sold or the number in your bank account,” she says. “Success has to do with the lightness of the load on your back. I’ve always strived to feel satisfied inside myself, to be true and honest to myself.”

Tony Aspler’s Weekly Wine Pick: an herbaceous white from British Columbia

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Burrowing Owl’s second label: very pale colour; floral, herbaceous, grapefruit nose with a vanilla note; full-bodied, green plum and citrus flavours with lively acidity.

Food match: grilled fish; Caesar salad

 

Calliope Sauvignon Blanc, 2011, British Columbia, $19.95. Vintages #258905

Post City Magazines’ wine columnist, Tony Aspler, has written 14 books on wine and food. Tony also created the Ontario Wine Awards and has been inducted into the New York Media Wine Writers’ Hall of Fame. He can be heard on 680News.

Sansotei Ramen heads to Yonge and Bloor

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Over the past year, Toronto’s ramen scene has been steaming hot (both literally and figuratively). And now one of the leaders of the pack is set to expand. Sansotei Ramen, which opened on Dundas a little over a year ago, announced an upcoming location on its Facebook page earlier this week. The new Sansotei is expected to open this winter at 650 Yonge St., just south of Bloor.

[h/t View the Vibe]

Chef Susur Lee is taking on New York City — again

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Celebrated Toronto chef Susur Lee is taking a second crack at the Big Apple. According to a press release, he will be running an upcoming restaurant at the new One World Trade Center. The restaurant’s name has yet to be revealed, but it will serve modern Chinese food, and it will be part of a members-only club on the building’s 66th floor (which means dashed hopes for the general public).

This is Lee’s sophomore attempt at bringing his cuisine to New York following the 2011 closure of Shang. Prior to Shang’s closure, Lee had attributed his troubles in New York to the city’s lack of adventurous spirit towards food.

For his sake, let’s hope that the city’s attitude has changed by the time the new restaurant opens in 2015.

[h/t Eater]