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Couples say cannabis enhances intimacy

By
Erin Neilly
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Jessica O'Reilly, Carly Stojsic

With the legalization of cannabis and the opening of the city’s first legal dispensaries, cannabis culture continues to expand, and it’s shaping the way we date, relate and have sex.

Daters can now specifically seek and meet like-minded singles with apps like 420Singles and High There, and data suggests that Canadian daters are overwhelmingly cannabis-friendly. According to a survey of over 4,000 singles by online dating site WhatsYourPrice.com, 82 per cent are open to dating someone who smokes marijuana regularly and  the over half say they’re willing to get high on a first date.

“Canna-coupling is a thing,” explains Toronto-based trend forecaster and cannavangelist Carly Stojsic. “Cannabis legalization has given way to many couples experimenting and consuming cannabis together in Toronto. I see more couples openly using cannabis together socially across all demographics at events and local hot spots. The cannabis experience provides an avenue for emotional connection and discovery.”

Stojsic’s observations are in line with research findings, with one study revealing that couples who consume cannabis are more likely to experience an intimate encounter — ranging from meaningful conversations to loving, supportive and caring interactions within two hours of consumption.

And cannabis may enhance your sex life too. Beyond cannabinoid-infused lubes absorbed by mucous membranes, one study of 28,176 women and 22,943 men found that cannabis users across all demographic groups have sex 20 per cent more often than those who don’t use cannabis. Many users report that they feel more relaxed and in the moment when they use cannabis, and this not only increases their openness to sex, but also makes the experience more fulfilling, as they feel more connected to their own bodies and to their partners.

“It’s not just that it helps me to relax, but it also makes me less self-conscious, and this helps to drown out all the distractions.”

“It’s not just that it helps me to relax, but it also makes me less self-conscious, and this helps to drown out all the distractions. I can feel every sensation and really tune into sex when I’m not worried about my daughter in the next room or what my lover is thinking,” says Leslieville’s Trisha (who asked to remain anonymous because of a heated debate over cannabis use in her local mom group). “These are things that tend to bother me and have a history of killing the mood even when I’ve wanted to have sex in the past. Cannabis helps, and I really do have better orgasms.”

It makes sense that the decrease in inhibitions and self-consciousness associated with cannabis use may facilitate arousal and orgasm, as the experience of “letting go” encourages sexual response. In fact, the lateral orbitofrontal cortex, which is the section behind the left eye responsible for sound decision making, is believed to shut down during orgasm. If cannabis helps you to relinquish control of intrusive thoughts and distractions, it has the potential to increase the likelihood of orgasm.

Another study looked at women’s cannabis use and sex. It found that 68 per cent of users reported having more pleasurable sex; 16 per cent said they were undecided or unaware; and 16 per cent reported that cannabis use ruined their sexual experience. This is an important finding as, like with all substances, the effects vary from person to person.

There are, of course, drawbacks to cannabis use, including the potential of substance abuse and its associated relational and sexual effects. Although a study published in the Journal of Sexual Medicine found no connection between cannabis use and sexual dysfunction, more research is required to better understand its effects on diverse populations and interactions with other substances. Ultimately, you are the expert in your own body, and if you experience an outcome (positive or negative), acknowledge it without pressure rather than worrying about how other people are affected.

Stojsic believes we’re experiencing the beginning of a new canna-culture emphasizing that cannabis is a social substance that will affect how we form and interact in relationships.

Trisha and others hope Stojsic is right. “I don’t drink alcohol, but I’m judged for smoking weed as a mother. Dads don’t face the same scrutiny, and being black adds even more judgment in my mostly white neighbourhood. If Toronto is as progressive as we claim to be, it’s time to cut the stigma and remember that the folks reaping the financial reward of legalization are not the same as those of us who have faced persecution for years.”

Talking to Trisha served as a reminder that sex and drugs have more than just pleasure in common, and dismantling stigma means digging through the layers of our own privilege to promote pleasure for all.

This column refers to cannabis use for adults.

Jess O’Reilly is a sought-after speaker, author and sexologist. SexWithDrJess.com.

Chef Anthony Rose serves up Middle Eastern cuisine at Fet Zun

By
Samantha Peksa
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Fet Zun

Fet Zun has replaced Bar Begonia in the Annex. This isn’t the first time that co-owners Anthony Rose and Robert Wilder have remade a restaurant. Earlier last year, they turned Rose & Sons from a diner serving up nostalgic food to a full blown delicatessen, and in the past few years, the duo has been slowly adding more Middle Eastern and Jewish concepts to their mini restaurant empire.   

“We kind of wanted to dive deeper into who we were as restaurateurs, myself and Rob,” says Rose on closing Bar Begonia. “We loved Bar Begonia; it was a very good restaurant and we had amazing people here, but we just wanted it to be more personal. All of our restaurants have a story, a background and have a [personal] meaning. Bar Begonia didn’t really have that,” he adds.

Not much has changed at Fet Zun, as the bulk of the Bar Begonia team stayed on. It’s a little brighter, and a little louder. Chef de cuisine Michael Sarino has taken over the kitchen, which was a natural fit seeing as he came over from Fat Pasha — Rose and Wilder’s other Middle Eastern restaurant just two blocks down.  

 

Fet Zun mezzes
A colourful spread of mezes

The Fet Zun menu is comprised mostly of dishes that can be eaten sans utensils. An extensive list of mezes (all $6.99) include dishes like dukkah (a dip made of pistachios, cumin, black and white sesame, coriander, black pepper and maldon salt with a healthy dose of olive oil), which is a mix of sweet and savoury and one of Rose’s current favourites. 

 

Fet Zun spicy things
Fet Zun’s spicy things

There’s a plate simply and cheekily called “spicy things,” which features four dips including a jalapeno and mint compote, a red and green schug (a Yemeni hot sauce) of cilantro and chilies and hanif, a mix of dark spices like smoked paprika, aleppo pepper and cayenne. The massbaha is akin to hummus but its base is lima beans in lieu of chickpeas. There are house-made pitas ($1.49) and a choice of za’atar or sesame flatbread ($3.99) that are tasty vessels for all the dippable, spreadable mezes.

 

Fet Zun
Roasted carrots at Fet Zun

On the vegetable side of things, the sabich plate ($18) is Rose’s take on a traditional pita sandwich, here reimagined as a platter topped with an egg, fried eggplant, chopped salad and fries and a creamy tahini. Perfect for sharing, and plenty as a meal for one.

 

Fet Zun
Whole fish at Fet Zun

For drinks, Mike Tanchuk (formerly Bar Begonia) has a list of classic cocktails with a Middle Eastern twist, such as the pomegranate pisco sour. There’s also a za’atar fizz made with vodka, arake, za’atar syrup that is strained over ice with muddled cucumber then topped with soda and a sprig of mint.  

Those looking for non-alcoholic beverage options can find solace in the fresh juice program.  

There is a shortlist of desserts (all $9) including the fat son sundae, pita doughnut and apple cake. Brunch is served on weekends, although a more dedicated brunch menu is on the works. Rose says that brunch in Israel and the Middle East is just second nature, meaning the usual foods you’d find for lunch that become brunch staples — basically “things like this [the menu] with an egg on it.”  

We doubt this will be the last building block as the Wild and Rose empire continues to expand with Jewish and Middle Eastern eats.

Put a spring in your step

By
lindsaylow
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0
Spring shoes

A) TEXTUR-RIFIC

“What a lovely fabric. They look like they’ve been distressed, and it’s a nice alternative to a metallic.”
Officine Creative at Gravitypope, 1010 Queen St. W., $580

B) TASSEL TIME

“I love the tassels and the beautiful elongated toe. It’s a very rich look, very classy but unusual. Ron White just has such a great attention to the construction of his shoes.”
Ron White Shoes, Bayview Village, $595

C) NEON DREAMS

“The neon fruit shades are so appealing for spring. This is a true stiletto, very sexy. They would be a great punctuation mark on any outfit.”
Aldo, Promenade Mall, $95

D) STUDDED SLIPPER

“I love these little studded ones, and they’re on suede. They’re easy peasy, just slide into them. They’re a great little shoe.”
Steve Madden at Sporting Life, 2665 Yonge St., $109.99

E) LOVELY LILAC

“They’re obviously beautifully styled, very elegant, very sleek. Absolutely beautiful lavender colour, which is the big colour of the season, and they’re very of the moment.”
L’Intervalle, Eaton Centre, $228

F) LUXE LOAFER

“These appeal to me because of this heel with the pearl and stud detailing, and the nice square toe that gives you solid footing.”
Gucci at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W., $1,370

Jeanne Beker with a green pair from L’Intervalle

G) OFF TO THE BALLET

“A new take on a traditional ballet slipper. You’ve got this great pearl toggle at the back, very chic and very feminine.”
Nicholas Kirkwood at Davids, 66 Bloor St. W., $1,020

H) PRETTY IN PINK

“A great colour, that’s what’s attracting me the most, and the beautiful detailing around the heel. They look dressy.”
Nicholas Kirkwood at Davids, 66 Bloor St. W., $880

I) STEP INTO STRIPES

“These look like something a new wave wicked witch of the west would wear. There’s a lot of whimsy to these shoes.”
John Fluevog, 686 Queen St. W., $369

J) EMERALD CITY

“These are sensational. A great faux croc in a beautiful shade of green. A great toe that’s very sexy, and the heel just makes it look so artful.”
L’Intervalle, Eaton Centre, $168

K) WELL-HEELED

“This heel is so artful it almost looks like a fancy parquet floor, and it’s made of leather.”
See by Chloe at Studio D, 2570 Yonge St., $565

L) COOL CUT-OUT

“These are a beautiful, blush-coloured shoe, with the most beautiful heel, so interesting and so design conscious.”
Vic Matie at Gravitypope, 1010 Queen St. W., $465

25 amazing Mother’s Day gift ideas

By
Jarrod Daley
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0
Mother's Day

 

William Ashley

William Ashley carries the finest selection of world renowned brands, like the Caroline Leather Case & Box Collection by WOLF. Their Zip Travel Jewellery Case includes quilted leather exterior, LusterLoc anti-tarnish lining, mirror, seven ring rolls, three necklace hooks and four compartments. 131 Bloor St. W., 416-964-2900

Wolf Caroline Zip Travel Jewellery Case ($114.00)

Abdul Samad Al Qurashi (ASQ)

Mother’s Day is the perfect time to celebrate how wonderful mom truly is! Show her how much you care with the ASQ Mother’s Day Box. It is filled with 100% Natural Handmade Soap, 100% Natural Body Essential Oil and a Loofah. 2643 Yonge St., 647-729-4970

Mother’s Day Gift Box ($50)

The Beauty House Midtown

Surprise a deserving mother, grandmother, sister or aunt with a relaxing day of pampering that she will never forget. Book an AquaPeel Facial — this rejuvenating treatment is a non-invasive procedure that combines benefits of traditional facial with a deep cleanse protection and is designed for all skin types. 1689 Bayview Ave., 647-748-1419

AquaPeel Facial ($150)

Beestung Lingerie

Do you love classic cotton nightwear? Consider Hanro, the epitome of Swiss quality. The vision of quality can be found in every detail: the best materials, the perfection of the cuts and the exquisite finishing. This is what has made Hanro so unique and contemporary for 133 years. 2624 Yonge St., 416-481-2849

100% cotton pyjamas and nightgowns (from $70-$300)

Jewellery by Varouj

Beautiful birthstones are an expression of legacy and love that’s as one-of-a-kind as the person who wears them. Varouj’s designs are created using the finest of gemstones to suit every unique style, story and budget. Prices available upon request. 515 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-322-9775

Shaynee’s Gift Selections

Shaynee’s Gift Selections carries one of the most extensive collection of Michael Aram in Toronto. The Black Orchid Collection was inspired by the sensuality of orchids and the rich ambiance of haute couture — strikingly simple yet full of the most extreme detail. Prices available upon request.

3501 Bathurst St., Toronto, 416-787-4497 | 441 Clark Ave. W., Thornhill, 905-709-0430

Michael Aram Black Orchid Triple Nut Dish

Peppertree Klassics

TONi PONS shoes are now available at Peppertree. A great variety of different styles and colours. Such an amazingly comfy shoe with a wide selection of sizes ranging from 5 to 11. Prices range from $120 – $155. 137 Main St. N., Markham, 905-294-3882

Secrett Jewel Salon

Spring! Mother’s Day! You’ll want to make it memorable. Visit Secrett Jewel Salon and choose from an exquisite collection. 162 Cumberland St., Toronto, 416-967-7500

18K yellow gold five-band pyramid ring with 124 diamonds ($6,050)

The Market Place Pop-Up

The Marketplace offers a curated collection of beautiful products from a collective of local women entrepreneurs — perfect for Mother’s Day. Working together to offer unique finds, this women’s collective continues to pop up seasonally across the city and in Muskoka.

1260 Yonge St., Toronto – until May 11 | 2656 Yonge Sreet, Toronto – until June 30 

Aminta Tote by Star Mela ($185)

Bloom Beauty

Why not give mom the gift of clean beauty? A beautifully wrapped gift card towards a private personalized makeup lesson or any of our makeup or aesthetic services! ­Explore their curated selection of clean and natural makeup, skin care, bath and body and life’s little luxuries in-store or online. 1625 Bayview Ave., 416-322-5556

The Eglinton Grand

The Eglinton Grand is opening its doors for Mother’s Day for an all-you-can-eat brunch buffet. Prepped by the venue’s 5-star in-house catering team, expect nothing less than the top quality service and catering hundreds rave about in reviews. Buy your tickets online today. Adults are $49.95 + tax, children are half price.

400 Eglinton Ave. W., Toronto, 416-485-5900

Cynthia Findlay Antiques

This custom designed bespoke one carat marquise with calibre cut blue sapphires is an elegant example of their selection of estate and modern gems available in store. 284 King St. W., 416-260-9057

Price: $13,300 tax included. Call for details.

Legs Plus & Bra Boutique

Legs Plus & Bra Boutique is dedicatied to educating women about fit, function and comfort. “Avero” is a Marie Jo classic, known for its Daisy straps. This spring “pearly pink” adds that femininity to your fashions. Like mother, like daughter. 5867 Leslie St., Toronto, 416-497-2350

Marie Jo “Avero” ($152)

Paola Di

Young & Blur, a husband and wife owned Canadian brand whose passion is designing and importing quality minimalistic jewelry! This necklace is handmade in Greece, 18k gold plated heart and sterling silver. Made with love and care.

3357 Yonge St., 416-322-0430, [email protected]

Shop with Paola Di in May to receive this as your Gift with Purchase

Olive Oil Emporium

Mother’s Day never tasted so good with this Deluxe Olive Wood Salad Server gift set from Olive Oil Emporium. Each coupled with their most popular premium olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Both artisan, single estate and delicious.

1707 Bayview Ave., 416-902-9060 | 659 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-902-9060 

Olive oil gift set ($74.95)

Sarkar Knives and More

Shun Premier offers the grace and beauty of hand-forged knives of old. Every blade is made of VG-MAX steel, clad with 34 layers on either side of stainless steel Damascus. Where the steels meet, a wavy line called a hamon is formed. Handcrafted in Japan. 158 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-482-7154

Shun Premier 3-piece set ($450)

Van Rijk Jewellers

Diamond studs are a timeless expression of love and beauty, and are the perfect gift to show mom you love her. Available in many sizes and price ranges, diamond stud earrings are the perfect accessory that will go with everything. 90 Eglinton Ave. E., 416-440-0123

Diamond stud earrings price available on request

Linea Intima

Linea Intima has the perfect gift for Mother’s Day! From lingerie to sleepwear in all the new spring colours we have you covered. You’ll be sure to have the best gift for mom that she will love!

1925 Avenue Rd., 416-780-1726 | 2901 Bayview Ave., 416-221-9225 

Bra ($185) and matching panty $93 (not pictured)

Tzatz

I heart Mom T-shirts are back! Toddler, kid, youth and adult sizes. New this year, ‘I heart Grandma’ and ‘I heart Bubbie’. Show Mom how much you care. Dress up the family and get ready to take the cutest photo ever! Visit them at one of four locations.

Kids size $18, adults $25 exclusively at Tzatz

Topaz Jewelry

Say ‘I love you’ with this heart charm bracelet featuring links of love with a series of open hearts, lips, flowers, and crystal pink hearts — the perfect gift for mom or the loved ones in your life. 2554 Yonge St., 416-480-0040

Amore charm bracelet ($185)

Gidon Aesthetics & MediSpa

An ideal, relaxing treatment before a special event. Oxygenating 3-in-1 facial combines exfoliation of the outer layer of the skin, infusion of revitalizing nutrients, and oxygenation of the skin from within. There is an immediate improvement in skin tone, texture and radiance. Price upon request.

1849 Yonge St., Suite 307, 416-483-4541 

Matsu Jewellery

Matsu carries handmade karat gold and sterling silver jewellery from metalsmiths across Canada and the US. Mother’s Day sale 20-50% off on in stock items only. This sale is not applicable to custom work or special orders. In store sale 20-50% off April 27- May 11. 9 Castlefield Ave., 416-487-6345

Mad-dasH

“Where all is ever so perfect, because nothing needs to be”. Kinder-arT transforms a child’s drawing into a luxurious silk handmade scarf. Kinder-arT is a wonderful gift for a parent, grandparent, or someone special. Forever loved! Starting price $400. 416-906-2302 @mad_dash_yorkville

 

Signa Computer Systems

Give mom the gift of time. Signa’s expert technicians offer convenient in- home services. Contact them for Wi-Fi speed boosting, printer repairs, new computer setups, universal remotes, phones, and more. Mention MAY25 to save $25 off in-home service for May. 3457 Yonge St. (S. of Loblaws), 416-488-9208

The biggest Toronto shows in May

By
Erin Neilly
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0
Evalyn Parry
Evalyn Parry in her bicycle-loving musical ‘SPIN'

Spin

Award-winning Toronto theatre artist and innovator Evalyn Parry is back in town with her stunning bicycle-themed work SPIN. Through a series of songs played live on a vintage bicycle — from fenders to spokes to bells — Parry takes her audience on an innovative musical and theatrical journey about women, cycling and liberation. SPIN is influenced in part by the incredible true tale of Annie Londonderry, the first woman to ride around the world on a bike in 1894.

SPIN will be presented May 8 at Jane Mallet Theatre.

John Cleese

The Minister of Silly Walks himself is coming to Toronto to present an evening of humour and political insights in Why There Is No Hope. Cleese is best known for his work with the groundbreaking Monty Python’s Flying Circus sketch comedy show responsible for such memorable skits as “Ministry of Silly Walks” and “The Dead Parrot” and its subsequent series of absurd and wonderful films.

John Cleese hits Roy Thomson Hall on May 13.

CBC Music Festival

Festivals are few and far between in Toronto this year, but on May 25, Toronto bands Alvvays and Stars headline the CBC Music Festival at Echo Beach. Other performers for the all-day event include Buffy Sainte-Marie, Rhye, Coeur de Pirate and Charlotte Cardin. The event also includes a kids’ zone and food truck fair.

For more info, go to cbcmusic.ca/ festival

Coeur de Pirate
Coeur de Pirate

Contact Photography Festival

The annual Scotiabank Contact Photography Festival gets underway this month with a launch party on May 1. The 23rd edition of Contact features 23 exhibitions and 15 public installations, including a headlining presentation of the work of American artist Carrie Mae Weems. Her work will be presented in two gallery exhibitions and three major public art installations in downtown Toronto.

Weems’ Blending the Blues is at the Contact Gallery, 80 Spadina Ave., running May 1 to July 27.

Brothers Size

This Soulpepper production is set in the Deep South where music and ritual intertwine with Yoruba mythology. The Brothers Size is part of a trilogy of plays by American playwright Tarell Alvin McCraney, who also co-wrote the film Moonlight, which won the Academy Award for Best Picture in 2017. The Brothers Size is described as a “bracing, honest and moving portrait of brotherhood.”

The Brothers Size runs May 4 to 26 at Soulpepper.

Lowest of the Low

Iconic Toronto band Lowest of the Low will be in town with its new album, Agitpop. Best known for the legendary album Shakespeare My Butt, the band, led by brilliant singer-songwriter Ron Hawkins, has been building serious momentum the last couple of years, culminating in the new major label release.

Lowest of Low plays the Danforth Music Hall on May 31. 

Next to Normal

Winner of three Tony Awards and the 2010 Pulitzer Prize for Drama, this bold play about a family in crisis, Next to Normal, gets a new Toronto production opening this month courtesy of the Musical Stage Company.

Next to Normal runs April 26 to May 19 at the CAA Theatre.

Infinity Mirrored Room

The Art Gallery of Ontario’s new permanent edition Infinity Mirrored Room – Let’s Survive Together, by acclaimed artist Yayoi Kusama, opens to the general public on May 25.

 

AGO, Infinity Mirrored Room, Yayoi Kusama,
The AGO’s new ‘Infinity Mirrored Room’

Art of Time Ensemble: Doghouse Roses

Singers Andy Maize, Susie Ungerlieder, Tom Wilson, and Gregory Hoskins perform the music of Steve Earle, while celebrated author Michael Ondaatje and actor Rick Roberts read his words. Doghouse Roses will be performed May 3 at Koerner Hall.

Toronto is more bee-friendly than cottage country

By
Erin Neilly
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0
bees
Bees prefer gardens in areas with a wide variety of plants and flowers

If there’s one thing bees and many city dwellers have in common, it’s a love of gardens. That’s good news for both because it means there’s hope for reversing the decline of bee populations worldwide. Cities like Toronto are important refuges for pollinators and could ultimately hold the key to their survival.

Canada is home to more than 800 bee species, from big, fuzzy carpenter bees to tiny, green metallic sweat bees. Climate change, pesticide use, habitat loss and disease have contributed to an alarming drop in wild and managed pollinators. This is at a time when 35 per cent of the world’s crop production depends on pollination. Bees and other pollinating insects are the basis of healthy diets, but they also play a significant role in our overall quality of life. We can thank them for some of our medicines, clothing and construction materials, as well as recreational and cultural activities.

That’s where cities come in. Urbanization has come at a cost to insects like bees. Our rapid shift away from rural life has disturbed their habitat and made it harder for them to find food they need to survive. And when bees decline, so do the plants that depend on them for reproduction.

However, new research debunks the myth that urban areas are inherently bad for biodiversity, especially when it comes to pollinators. In a large-scale study of 360 sites over two years — published in Nature Ecology and Evolution — U.K. researchers found that urban land can support robust pollinator populations when done deliberately and correctly. That means putting pollinator conservation at the heart of urban planning.

As it turns out, home and community gardens are among bees’ favourite places to hang out. That’s because of the wide range of fruit and vegetable flowers they offer. The study found these urban gardens often attract up to 10 times more bees than the places we might typically consider bee havens: nature reserves, parks, cemeteries and other public green spaces. Bees are unable to thrive where there are trees and turf alone.

Gardens in neighbourhoods with a wide variety of plants and flowers also tend to have more pollinators. Knowing which types of plants and flowers attract bees can help city dwellers get the formula just right and set their gardens up for success. For instance, plants that some consider weeds, such as dandelion and clover, can help support bees, whereas hydrangeas and forget-me-nots prove to be the least popular.

The research makes it clear: urban pollinators can thrive when planners and gardeners get behind them. By encouraging better garden management, such as planting native flowers adapted to the local climate and ensuring pollinators can access a buffet of blooming flowers from spring through fall, we can have a big impact.

Urbanization has had a hand in the decline of bees, butterflies and other essential bugs.

It’s time for cities, and citizens, to become forces for good. Through small, simple acts to better manage our yards and green spaces, we can help sustain the pollinators that sustain us.

Toronto’s 50 best restaurants

By
Samantha Peksa
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0
Top 50 cover

Here you have it, the top 50 restaurants of 2019, ranked by some of the most celebrated chefs in the city. Sixty of them, in fact. Chefs like Patrick Kriss, Nuit Regular, Grant Van Gameren and Anna Chen all told us what their favourite spots are and why they love them, and we drew up a definitive guide to the city’s best restaurants in accordance to their answers. Looking for a dinner reservation this weekend, or for every weekend for the rest of the year? You’ve come to the right place. Counting down from number 10 with …

No. 10
SKIPPA

Skippa

JUDGE ROB GENTILE, BUCA RESTAURANTS: “It’s probably one of the best sushi experiences I’ve ever had. Ian takes all of these amazing local ingredients and he just turns it into magic.”

Chef Ian Robinson got his first taste of Japanese cuisine as a teenager. The Japanese wife of a family member would make him homestyle food, which struck him with its simplicity and seasonality. Robinson has pursued those flavours ever since. After working for four years under the esteemed Mitsuhiro Kaji at Sushi Kaji, Robinson went solo with Skippa. Since day one, the Harbord Street restaurant has resonated with Toronto diners. Patrons can order a single piece of sushi (though we’re not sure why you would) or opt for the omakase experience. Much of the seafood hails directly from the Fukuoka fish market. Throughout the meal, chef Robinson will share the origin of each fish, where it was caught and how to eat it.

Skippa, 379 Harbord St., 416-535-8181

No. 9
PARIS PARIS

Paris Paris

Chef Zane Caplansky JUDGE ZANE CAPLANSKY, CAPLANSKY’S DELI: “Paris Paris may be the perfect restaurant. Impeccably executed and perfectly accessible, this place almost defies description.”

Jonathan Poon, Jesse Fader and Gani Schqueir know what the people want. Since sashaying onto the food scene in hipsterville, Paris Paris has been welcomed with open arms. The room — light filled and unpretentious — acts as a fitting backdrop for a culinary team that is pulling weight in all corners. Chef de cuisine Nick Morra, who’s been at Chantecler and La Banane, seduces with his soft shell crab dish. Meanwhile, sous Josh Bagalacsa is doing wild things with charcuterie (namely nabbing a gold prize at the 2019 Charcuterie Masters competition for his chorizo). Baker Patti Robinson does wonderful things with bread. Right now it’s heritage grains and naturally leavened breads. She works directly with farmers and millers that produce the flour used in the loaves. Be sure to grab one for home. Finally, it is a wine bar, and right now folks are sipping red, white and rosé from Martha Stoumen — a California winemaker whose goods are just starting to trickle into Ontario. Poon himself is excited about the arrival of white asparagus (now) and matsutake mushrooms (later). Find them on the menu. To sum up: this is a team you can trust.

Paris Paris, 1161 Dundas St. W., 416-535-5656

No. 8
IL COVO

Il Covo

Chef David LeeJUDGE DAVID LEE, PLANTA: “I love what Ryan is doing there. It’s only going to get better: some honest cooking, great flavours and ingredients!”

In Italian, Il Covo means “the meeting point,” and that’s what has this restaurant is. Unobtrusive from the exterior, the space unfurls into a warm room. Chef Ryan Campbell and biz partner Giuseppe Marchesini hopped over from Buca (where they were the first two employees!) with plenty of Italian culinary knowledge. But rather than turn out fare from one region of the Boot, the team has chosen to cycle through them all over the course of the year. At the start of 2019, Il Covo honed in on the cuisine of the north; in May a central Italy exploration begins; come fall, the food will segue to the south and the islands. Although the regional devotion permeates all aspects of the food and drink, there is still a local lean to the menu. Diners may encounter an Ontario take on a savory pie native to Emilia-Romagna. The trad version matches spinach with egg and nutmeg, whereas the localized take swaps in braised wild stinging nettles and wild ramps. For sweet, a Bavarese dessert is a crisp Roman pastry stuffed with custard, vanilla whipped cream and provincial rhubarb. This is how you travel the Boot.

Il Covo, 585 College St., 416-530-7585

No. 7
MONTGOMERY’S

Montgomery's

Chef Anna ChenJUDGE ANNA CHEN, ALMA: “Guy Rawlings does quintessential Canadian cuisine. His food is very minimal, but his flavours are always on point.”

Montgomery’s is a true labour of love. Chef Guy Rawlings, who cut his teeth at Bar Isabel, opened the Ossington-adjacent space with his wife Kim Montgomery, who takes care of operations. (And the playlists!) Coming into its third year, the restaurant serves contemporary Canadian cuisine that’s dictated by the seasons. Last year, one of chef Rawlings’s favourite products was fresh seaweed. He would steep kombu in broths and then pickle it, purée dulse into a sauce for ‘shrooms and roast nori and serve it with salt. Although many a restaurant looks abroad for their sodium, at Montgomery’s they’re lucky to work with two Canadian producers who transform ocean water into salt. Rawlings doesn’t venture far for fresh produce. He works with local farmers to source vegetables and gathers flavourings from the rooftop garden and another garden 15 minutes away. Upcoming favourites include fennel seed, which will find its way into salami. They’re also big on cured hams. Every 45 days a new ham is salted. Currently Rawlings is keen on boar and warthog (the structure of the leg is different and the meat is darker).

Montgomery’s, 996 Queen St. W., 647-748-4416

No. 6
BAR ISABEL

Bar Isabel

Chef Angela VillaltaJUDGE ANGELA VILLALTA, L’UNITÀ: “My favourite thing is the little Spanish fix I get when I go there. The room, the drink and the food make me nostalgic about Spain.”

When Grant van Gameren debuted his Bar Isabel back in 2013, he was relatively green. After forging a name for himself at the Black Hoof (RIP), the chef departed, causing many a foodie to question his next move. A stint at Enoteca Sociale resulted in a partnership with Max Rimaldi and the birth of the original restaurant in an ever-growing empire. Tiles were flown in from Mexico and chef Brandon Olsen was recruited. Since then, the eatery has matured beautifully. Long wood tables are filled with share-happy diners who travel to Barcelona via pan con tomate, spiffy Marcona almonds and blistered shishito peppers. Those hunting for the extra-special should look out for gooseneck barnacles from B.C. (or occasionally Catalonia). The delicacy is only in season for about a month. Bread is made in-house (upstairs) and is for sale daily after 2 p.m. If you can’t get a table, just grab a loaf for home. Oenophiles should also stay tuned for Cuvée Lila — a red wine collab with Pearl Morissette made exclusively from Ontario Lemberger grapes. This is why people keep coming back.

Bar Isabel, 797 College St., 416-532-2222

No. 5
ALOETTE

Aloette

Chef Steve GonzalezJUDGE STEVE GONZALEZ, BARO & PETTY CASH: “The food is delicious and the portion sizes are great. We even had room for dessert, so we had them all.”

Baby sis to Alo, this downstairs diner is the cool sibling — the more approachable one you want to be friends with (and actually stand a chance with). Walls are clad in sleek wood panelling, servers look jaunty in bow ties, and the food is comforting but never sloppy. The menu isn’t so much greasy spoon but more international: yes, there’s a burger, but there’s also roasted octopus studded with chorizo. A favoured spot for business-y bites come noon, the elevated diner is now offering a prix fixe lunch. Two courses ring in at $25, three for $30. Portions are downsized, allowing guests to enjoy more variety. The gabbed-about wedge salad — avocado, Parm and puffed wild rice laced with chive cream — shrinks down to a more manageable mound. Mains may include the sea trout or steak frites, and a mini apple pie sundae is somehow more fun to eat than the big one. But it’s not only lunch that’s spirited. Rather than shutter between the hours of 3 and 5 p.m. (as most eateries that offer lunch and dinner do), the diner has optioned to lure in an early evening crowd. Dubbed Aloette Hour, the stretched hour involves $10 glasses of wine and house cocktails. Swoon.

Aloette, 163 Spadina Ave., 1st Floor, 416-260-3444

No. 4
GIULIETTA

Giulietta

Chef Elia HerreraJUDGE ELIA HERRERA, COLIBRI: “The food is so on point: simple but amazing flavours, polished techniques with an incredibly executed kitchen.­”

Toronto’s obsession with Italiana never seems to abate, and Giulietta is one of the reasons why. Chef Rob Rossi was at first pooh-poohed (the nerve to close Bestellen!) before being embraced twice over. Rossi partnered with David Minicucci (L’Unità), and they ran with their idea of serving Italian food that’s clean, simple and addictive. Pasta is a must. Ravioli has been jazzed with peas, smoked ricotta and guanciale; swirls of squid ink pasta get heat from Calabrian ‘nduja sausage. Bottarga di tonno (a.k.a. cured tuna roe) hails from Sicily and adds a briny, salty quality to asparagus. Weekenders should ask about large deep-sea Carabineros shrimp from Spain. They’re a coveted find.

Giulietta, 972 College St., 416-964-0606

No. 3
EDULIS

Edulis

Chef Craig HardingJUDGE CRAIG HARDING, LA PALMA & CONSTANTINE: “When dining at Edulis, you always feel like you were invited to an exclusive dinner party hosted by Tobey and Michael.”

Chef Michael Caballo and partner in life and love chef Tobey Nemeth have been at their bucolic Niagara Street restaurant for a handful of years now and have consistently found themselves hovering near the top of the city’s best restaurants lists. It’s no surprise: Their menus are dictated by the whims of the season and tailored to the personal preferences of diners. Chances are, veg, seafood and plenty of wild mushrooms — their namesake — will grace your table over either five or seven courses. This is not a meal to rush through, rather, it is one to linger over and savour while Nemeth and Caballo work their magic. Cape Breton snow crab comes with teardrop peas. John Dory is paired with grilled mountain porcini, pine nuts and white asparagus. Or devour a ballotine of light Sussex chicken, sweetbreads and foie gras with morels, crayfish and sauce Nantua. For dessert? A decadent baba au rhum with Chantilly cream. Special additions to look out for include both black and white truffles (when in season) and the nightly option of a caviar starter. A tin of the good stuff — Imperial Osetra Caviar — complete with accompaniments might set one back a pretty penny ($160), but what a way to begin a meal!

Edulis, 169 Niagara St., 416-703-4222

No. 2
ALO

Alo

Chef Nuit RegularJUDGE NUIT REGULAR, KIIN & PAI: “I love everything about Alo. From the food to the service, the experience is always impeccable.”

With Alo, Patrick Kriss brought the tasting menu back into the Toronto dining vernacular. When the chef opened his French restaurant back in 2015, diners had become weary of stuffy parades of plates. Kriss decided to revive the tradition but do so in his own dignified manner. A flood of accolades came pouring in, applauding chef’s fresh approach to a dusty tradition. Although still young, the space has recently undergone a bit of a facelift (think new bar stools and emerald-hued curtains) in keeping with the ever-morphing nature of the menu. All guests pairing wine with their meal now sip from Zalto glasses, superb stemware handcrafted in Austria. Menu-wise, dishes continue to wow diners. Guests may tuck into delicate hunks of kanpachi crudo jazzed with yuzu kosho, puffed rice and sea asparagus batons. Or cuttlefish on a bed of littleneck clams and Yukon Gold potato, finished with smoked beurre. For those who want fine dining–calibre grub but in a slightly more convivial space, there’s always the barroom. Although Alo opens its hard-to-get reservation bookings every two months, the barroom is made for walk-ins as well as resos. Soon to come is a private dining room across the courtyard from Alobar in Yorkville. Private dinners? We say oui.

Alo, 163 Spadina Ave., 416-260-2222

No. 1
DANDYLION

Dandylion

Chef Grant van gamerenJUDGE GRANT VAN GAMEREN, BAR ISABEL & QUETZAL: “Few chefs in this city have an approach to food as unique and humble as Jay Carter. I admire the thoughtfulness put into the food.­”

At the unassuming Dandylion, Jason Carter can usually be found in the open kitchen, keeping an eye on the line of tables stretching out in front of him. The intimate 30-seat restaurant is four years old, but its game has never wavered: It has kept a tight menu of three appetizers, three entrees, and three desserts. It’s still pleasingly minimal, with a wall of plant life by the front entrance, hinting at the seasonal MO that is embraced by the restaurant. Chef Carter is still ultra-excited about local Ontario produce, from wild edibles to the promise of Ontario’s sour berries and peaches, from organic greens to outdoor charcoal grilling come summer. But, somehow, here, every dish is a new adventure.

Dandylion, 1198 Queen St. W., 647-464-9100

 

To view the entire Top 50 list, click below:

 

Thank you to the following judges who participated in Toronto’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2019:

  • Claudio Aprile  Master Chef Canada
  • Cale Elliott Armstrong  General Assembly
  • Blair Aspinall  Zucca Trattoria
  • Nick auf der Mauer  Porchetta & Co.
  • Romain Avril  Neruda
  • Suzanne Barr formerly Saturday Dinette
  • Victor Barry  Piano Piano, Café Cancan
  • Francis Bermejo  Mother Tongue
  • Hemant Bhagwani  Goa, Good Karma
  • Matt Blondin  Blondie’s
  • Michael Bonacini  O&B Restaurants
  • Ryan Campbell  Il Covo
  • Zane Caplansky  Caplansky’s Deli
  • Haan Palchu Chang  SoSo Food Club
  • David Chau  Banh Mi Boys
  • Ariel Coplan  Grand Cru Deli
  • Ted Corrado  The Drake
  • Justin Cournoyer  Actinolite
  • Anna Chen  Alma
  • Felicia De Rose  The Chase, Planta Burger
  • Miriam Echeverría  Greta Solomon’s
  • Rob Gentile  Buca Restaurants
  • Steve Gonzalez  Baro, Petty Cash
  • Craig Harding  La Palma, Constantine
  • Ben Heaton  ICONINK
  • Elia Herrera  Colibri
  • Michael Hunter  Antler
  • Daisuke Izutsu  Yukashi
  • Ann Kim  Donna’s
  • Patrick Kriss  Alo, Aloette, Alobar
  • Nicki Laborie  Bar Reyna
  • Charlotte Langley  Scout Canning
  • David Lee  Planta
  • Jackie Lin  Shoushin
  • Nick Liu  DaiLo
  • Haruna Makino  Grasshopper
  • Rosa Marinuzzi  7 Numbers
  • Niall McCotter  Peer to Peer Hospitality
  • Roger Mooking  Food Network Canada
  • Ryan Morrison  Marbl
  • Paula Navarette  Kojin
  • David Neinstein  Barque
  • Brandon Olsen  La Banane
  • Darby Piquette  ONE
  • Jonathan Poon  Paris Paris, Superpoint
  • Ivana Raca  Ufficio
  • Guy Rawlings  Montgomery’s
  • Nuit Regular  Kiin, Pai
  • Guillaume Robin  Louix Louis
  • Anthony Rose  Rose and­­­ Sons Deli, Fet Zun
  • Rob Rossi  Giulietta
  • Tricia Soo  Soos
  • Top Srisomphan  Khao San Road
  • John-Vincent Troiano  Frilu
  • Grant van Gameren  Bar Isabel, Quetzal
  • Angela Villalta  L’Unità
  • Cory Vitiello  Flock
  • Anthony Walsh  O&B Restaurants
  • Craig Wong  Patois
  • Janet Zuccarini  Top Chef Canada

Jagmeet Singh like you’ve never seen before

By
Erin Neilly
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Jagmeet Singh

Federal NDP leader Jagmeet Singh’s new memoir tells the story of how he overcame a tragic childhood of bullying, sexual assault and life with an alcoholic father through love and courage. Here is the real Singh that Canada needs to get to know ahead of the next election.

Why was now the right time for this?

I knew there would be a lot of attention on me as a national leader writing a story, so I really wanted to write a story that was meaningful and impactful and that could do some good. I wanted to tell the story about those frustrations and fears and sometimes moments of shame and guilt that I had. And I know a lot of folks have those same experiences and feelings, and I wanted them to know that they aren’t alone and really inspire them to have the courage to love.

Why were you bullied?

I think one of the roots of bullying is the fear of the unknown. Someone looks different, you don’t know about them. And that lack of knowledge turns into maybe a bit of the fear of the unknown, and it moves into, maybe not hatred, but in that realm. So I was just a target.

How did your parents react?

My parents were worried. Education was so important to them and what they believed would give me the ability to live my dreams. My mom was a teacher before, so she really believed in the importance of learning. So they tried to figure out a way to give me more confidence and let me know how to defend myself, so they suggested taking some martial arts classes.

And that was really good for you, in the beginning, right?

I was excited about the idea. I watched Karate Kid, and the idea of going to a dojo and training was appealing to me. I really liked it off the bat. It was really rewarding getting stronger and learning the technique. So it did build confidence in me. But my instructor noticed that I was vulnerable and put in place a plan to exploit that.

So many people who go through that kind of trauma don’t make it out the other side. How did you?

It’s a really important part of my story. That is true: it is very difficult to make it out, and many don’t. One of the things I really want to drive home as a message: I didn’t make it through on my own. It was because of so many people who helped me out — friends, family, even sometimes people I didn’t know.

What are you hoping people take from your story?

The book title, Love & Courage, is to explain where my love and courage came from and an insight into why I care and the type of Canada we can build together. And really the purpose is to make people feel less alone and to help people who are hurting.

Was it hard to revisit all of this?

Yeah, it was tough to put my whole life in front of me and things I hadn’t thought about and just having to confront it all. For me, it was an opportunity to heal more because there were things I didn’t really think about or confront. If you don’t, they’re still there. Telling the story, sharing it and being open about it made me feel less trapped by it and more liberated and free.

Politics is a tough business, and, with an increasingly intolerant society, this election could get ugly. Are you ready for that?

Sadly, I faced a lot of that intolerance and a lot of hatred and negativity based on who I am, and that’s prepared me for the type of negativity in the political space.

But beyond that preparation, what I think I bring to the table is finding those connections with people you wouldn’t imagine there’s a connection. My mom reminded me throughout my life that we are all connected and we are all one, and that’s been my goal — to find the connections. The fact that we are in this struggle together, we have so much more that unites us than separates us.

Have you set a goal for yourself?

To form government and become the next Prime Minister of Canada.

How is Burnaby? You must really miss our long, snowy winters.

Oh man, the weather in Burnaby is always epic. It’s always a little warmer and milder, except in the summer. It’s still mild here, but I love the intense hot summers of Ontario.

What are you hoping to impress upon people ahead of the election?

What I see happening is that there is a genuine sense of frustration, that they are worried about the future and their kids. There are some politicians who are going to use that frustration and fear and blame those who are not responsible: co-workers, your neighbours, new Canadians and refugees. And they are not to blame. It is not their fault. We are where we are right now because of decisions being made in Ottawa by Conservative and Liberal governments who have chosen a certain path that has rigged the system and makes it harder and harder for everyday families and easier and easier for the powerful and wealthy. That’s what I want people to focus on. We can make better decisions.

Working the pass with passion

By
Samantha Peksa
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Chef Keith Froggett
Chef Keith Froggett behind the scenes at Scaramouche

In this new restaurant renaissance, chefs are no longer simply the people in the back of the kitchen, turning out dishes — now, they are name brands and entrepreneurs. They’re business owners, Instagram influencers, celebrities. Among the most well-known chefs of the Toronto dining scene, only some of them still work their kitchens. The others are busy filming television shows, writing cookbooks or managing restaurant empires from afar.

Working the pass — kitchen lingo for standing at the counter to check that each dish is perfect, touch up each plate before it goes out to the diner and call out orders — is becoming a skill that’s not as important, for some, as Instagram feeds and offshoot restaurants. But here are three veteran high-profile chefs and one recent addition to their ranks who still show up to work every night.

Keith Froggett, the chef-owner of Scaramouche, has spent 25 years at the pass. As the last line of quality assurance between chefs on the line and the diner, he doesn’t intend to give it up any time soon.

“After so many years of working the pass, I still get a big knot in my stomach when service isn’t good, and it hasn’t gotten any easier, but you know what to expect,” says Froggett, whose restaurant routinely winds up on lists of Canada’s best restaurants, with accolades in places like Condé Nast Traveler and the Globe and Mail.

“It’s what I do. I like taking responsibility.”

Recently, Grant van Gameren has been confronted with this issue of responsibility. After years floating in and out of his kitchens while simultaneously  running his expansive restaurant empire and raising a child, he can lately be found working the pass at Quetzal, a Mexican restaurant he owns on College Street. This past January, he had a falling out with his founding chefs and partners, which resulted in them leaving the restaurant.

Chef Grant van Gameren
Chef Grant van Gameren now spends seven days a week at Quetzal

“It didn’t work out, but at the end of the day, I have all of my life savings invested into this restaurant that took three years to build — we spent double the budget, so I have to take accountability and make it work,” says van Gameren, who owns eight restaurants with a combined 350 employees. Van Gameren, 37, is a father of a young son and his second child is a few weeks from being born. He has been working the pass at Quetzal seven days a week.

“It’s my mess to clean up,” he says, adding that working the pass reminds him of his first big restaurant, the Black Hoof, which he co-founded in 2008 with Jen Agg.

“Working the pass now and cooking the food brings me back to where I started, and it’s invigorating,” he says. “It’s like the last five years never happened. It feels like good muscle memory, like I’ve been in the kitchen my whole life.”

Van Gameren doesn’t intend to work the pass at Quetzal forever. He estimates that he’ll be back to his other projects by the summer. But until then, he’ll be at the pass.

“It’s clarifying,” he said. “Friends know not to call or email, and my attention isn’t divided — everyone knows I am in the kitchen.”

Nuit Regular co-owns seven restaurants, including the popular Pai Northern Thai Kitchen, Kiin and Sukhothai, overseeing a few hundred employees. Over the last five years, she has become one of the most well-known chefs in Canada and one of the most prolific restaurateurs. But before moving to Canada, she worked as a nurse in northern Thailand. Well after changing the Thai food landscape here in Toronto, she still leans on her hospital’s organizational skills.

“At the hospital, everyone has specialized jobs and works in different departments,” she says. “We have that in our restaurants — different departments for different specialities — coming together to make something great.”

Chef Nuit Regular
Chef Nuit Regular (right) says she’s inspired by chefs like Keith Froggett

Regular spends most of her time in the kitchens of Kiin and Pai and can’t imagine a time when she wouldn’t work the pass. For her, it’s more than just food on a plate.

“Every time I miss home, I go back into the kitchen, and before I send out the food, I look at the food. It feels like my love and care, and I want to send it to the dining room, to be shared,” she says. Most of her team aren’t even hired as trained chefs. She takes home chefs, trains them for a professional kitchen and incorporates them into her line.

“I feel inspired by chef [Froggett],” she says. “Twenty-five years from now, I’ll be working the pass. I don’t know what else I would do.”

Brandon Olsen worked in the kitchens of the Black Hoof and Bar Isabel before striking out on his own with La Banane and CXBO Chocolates. Last year, he competed on Iron Chef Canada, and now he finds himself conflicted: at 36, he yearns to both be in his kitchen and grow his empire.

“If I take eight hours of my day to call service, those are hours I can spend doing something else in terms of growing business concepts. But I don’t ever want to not call service,” says Olsen. “I have to make some choices in the near future because I need to have a healthy lifestyle. Maybe that’s my dilemma right now.”

Meanwhile, Olsen, who owns one of the most acclaimed restaurants on the Ossington strip, continues to show up at his restaurant and examine each plate that exits his kitchen.

It seems like each restaurateur has their own recipe for not only a successful bottom line, but for the very notion of what success means to them. Keith Froggett measures his success one plate at a time. For him, staffing the pass at Scaramouche and its casual sister restaurant, the Pasta Bar & Grill, is enough.

“I think it’s important. To me, it makes me proud to take responsibility for every dish,” he says.

Arthur’s Restaurant is the belle of the matzo ball

By
Samantha Peksa
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0
Arthur’s restaurant Toronto
Arthur’s dining room

A restaurant that serves matzo ball soup — for 12 bucks! — is getting right out on the edge. Not in the way you’d imagine. OK, it’s not pork belly (God forbid) with kimchee and palm sugar blah blah blah. It’s simple and old school and traditional.

But you’d best be careful when you take on tradition. Serve a Jamaican a bad patty and you’re screwed. Make a soggy empanada for an Argentinian and your life is not worth living. Matzo ball soup is like that. For us Jews, it’s sacred. If the matzo balls are hard or the soup thin, you’ll be talked about for years. And not in a good way.

So seeing matzo ball soup on Arthur’s menu was a shock. They dare! First the bad news. It’s not as good as mine or my mother’s or my Bubby’s or Bess Olfman’s. But it’s pretty damn good. The veg are al dente, the stock authentic, the matzo balls credible.

Arthur’s, matzo balls and all, is a homage to Arthur Salm, who was the dad of Chase Hospitality Group president Steven Salm. Arthur’s comes to us from Chase, which also owns the Chase, the Chase Fish and Oyster, Kasa Moto, Colette Grand Café, Planta, Planta Burger and Palm Lane. This is their first uptown venture: Two+ storeys at Yonge and St. Clair, 156 seats, a bar and for spring a 60-seat rooftop terrace.

 

Arthur's Matzo ball soup
Matzo ball soup

The dining room is a cool tall octagon with deep leather chairs in dark brown and latte, spacious tables and servers who positively ooze grace. They’re friendly and attentive, clearly well trained. It’s strange seeing matzo ball soup and pastrami in such a glam space and with such silken smooth service. But this ain’t yer Bubby’s deli, and clearly Arthur was a pretty snazzy dude, because much of the menu is fancy shmancy (in a good way), and the prices are what my Bubby would have called meshuggena: $38.95 for one crab cake?

Arthur’s personal memorabilia cover the walls of the restaurant foyer, and his imprimateur is all over the menu. It is so old school: Beef stroganoff. Who even remembers beef stroganoff? This rendition, served with fettucine, is superlative, beef cheek braised into juicy tenderness, with mushrooms and sour cream, its sauce a complex triumph.

Oysters Rockefeller, which is usually abused by heedless cooks who overcook the oysters and the spinach, is very good, neither spinach nor oysters overcooked.

The $38.95 Dungeness crab cake had better be impeccable, and it is, its little side salad cleverly anointed with fresh tarragon leaves.

So many blasts from the past: Shrimp and avocado salad with Marie Rose dressing – the pink mayo that our grandmothers favoured. Calf’s liver. Dover sole. Lobster thermidor. They also do Arthur’s casual faves — a cheeseburger, pastrami on rye, smoked fish with bagel. And because Chase Hospitality does (and believes in) Planta and other non-meat restos, 25 per cent of the menu is plant-based.

 

Arthur's Baba au Rhum
The Baba au Rhum

For dessert they brought back baba au rhum, the eggy rum-soaked white cake from the ’50s. It’s wonderful, and thanks for the lime-zesty whipped cream on top.

I never met Arthur, but having tasted his son’s homage to dad, one can easily imagine a dapper older man popping in to his local at Yonge and St. Clair and ordering a dry martini with his crab cake.

Inside Maison Selby, a French bistro in one of Toronto’s historic homes

By
Samantha Peksa
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Maison Selby's eggs Hemingway

Toronto culinary brothers’ kale uses NASA tech

By
Samantha Peksa
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0
Guy Rubino and Boaz Wu
We the Roots co-founders Guy Rubino and Boaz Wu

Brothers Guy and Michael Rubino have established a reputation for their powerhouse combination of culinary and business expertise. But in early 2018, they embarked on their most innovative and exciting venture yet: a vertical farming company known as We the Roots.

The technology was initially developed by the University of Guelph’s Controlled Environment Systems Research Facility (CESRF), NASA and the Canadian Space Agency, to address questions around the viability of space travel and perhaps one day, our ability to sustain human life on other planets.

“Food determines how far from Earth we can go and how long we can stay,” explains the director of CESRF, Dr. Mike Dixon.

“Plants are extremely tough — they will not be the limiting factor for a greenhouse on the moon or Mars. We’re the vulnerable critter. We can’t do long-term human space exploration without them.”

But despite its origins, this technology is proving to have many applications in our everyday world.

We the Roots is growing about 4,500 plants per week in a 1,000-square-foot facility in Scarborough, supplying restaurants across Toronto with fresh, local produce year round, including basil, arugula, mizuna, cilantro and kale, all of which are ready to eat, non-GMO, and pesticide-free.

“Our background in Toronto’s restaurant scene has helped us a lot,” says Guy Rubino, one of the company’s four co-founders.

“We have all tasted hydroponic arugula or kale, but quite frankly there was a lot to be desired. Most chefs who have tried a sample [of our product] didn’t believe it came from an indoor farm.”

This upstart company has found some powerful customers, supplying greens to several established chefs including Grant van Gameren, Rob Gentile of Buca and O&B’s Anthony Walsh.

“It was one of the few products, when menu tasting for Quetzal, that unanimously blew us away,” says chef van Gameren. “They have taken somewhat of a ubiquitous green, like kale or arugula, and given chefs a reason to get excited about them again.”

This company is the result of a  partnership with Intravision Group, a photobiology company focused on plant and produce technologies, and the CESRF.

We the Roots’ vertical farming technology engages many of the hydroponic and aeroponic (the process of growing plants in an air environment without the use of soil) methods consumers have heard about in the past, but it also relies on LED light technologies that give growers more control over what the final product will taste, smell and feel like.

“Each different colour the sun gives out has a direct impact on the plant,” explains Rubino. “By using multiple LED light colours, we can replicate what the sun would normally provide but create our own ‘light recipes.’ ”

CESRF has been working on the research on vertical farming technologies since 1995.

It has become internationally renowned for innovations that could respond to global issues such as climate change, overpopulation, resource scarcity and food security. Dixon is part of a growing population in the scientific community that suggests our food futures rely on “environmentally modified organisms” (EMOs) as opposed to genetically modified organisms (GMOs).

“The chemistry that happens in a plant is so profoundly affected by the environments that we now have such fine-tuned control of,” he says.

“You can give me a plant, and its original genetics will have an impact, but I can turn them on their ear just by messing with the colour of the light,” Dixon says.

With two significantly larger vertical farms already in the works in Ontario and New Jersey, vertical farming is one industry that’s rapidly gaining ground close to home.

“Toronto has a great food scene,” says CEO of We the Roots, Amin Jadavji, “but we have a very short local grow season. The reality is that for most of the year our food comes from California, Arizona or further. That’s 5,000 kilometres of travel in the back of an air-conditioned truck. I believe that we will see many more local restaurants all around the world being supplied by a local vertical farm.”

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