Woodlot lives up to the hype

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7:59 am

Sometimes diners get it wrong. We get wrapped up in the hubbub of a hot new restaurant opening. Bamboozled by the bafflegab on foodie blogs.

Let’s call it the shiny new toy syndrome. We gotta get some of whatever they’re serving and we gotta get it now. Trouble is, not all restaurants live up to the hype machine.

There are two new restaurants in the city with a buzz so loud it could wake the dead — Woodlot and Brockton General.

The question is are they this year’s Zhu Zhu Pets, or the real culinary deal?

Of all the problems a new restaurant could encounter, having a full house every night is a good one. But Woodlot has been so busy they’ve actually cut back their hours, which just added to the buzz.

Woodlot has kept some of its previous life’s bar feel but is still warm and cozy with rustic wood floor and tables as well as a big wood-burning oven that dominates the kitchen. Our table is on the second floor with a great view of the kitchen brigade headed by chef and co-owner David Haman (ex–Luce, Lucien).

It is a bit drafty up here and a little dimly lit. But we are quickly hypnotized by the kitchen team as they work in unison to churn out Haman’s comfort cuisine. They are so close to each other that if one sneezes they all smash heads.

French onion soup ($8) is a steal, with lovingly caramelized onions and a full-bodied beef stock topped with just-melted, earthy Gruyère. A small house-smoked whitefish salad ($9) blends well with potatoes and maple mustard dressing.

So far, the menu feels alpine French, large earthenware baking dishes and all, but the first pasta — a classic carbonara (small $11) — boasts equally good Italian showmanship. Little bits of guancale with cream hugging the sides of perfectly cooked spaghetti — a hint salty. Next we try a housemade red fife wheat papardelle with wild boar ragout (small $13).

The sauce is loaded with flavour but not fatty, and the pasta has a nice al dente feel.

Duck cabbage rolls ($19) offer robust filling — think duck a l’orange meets wild rice stuffing. The signature dish of hunter’s style venison pie ($19) is served on an oval plate with a gigantic marrow bone chimney.

Tender venison stew with fall veggies topped with pate brisee is a rustic work of art.

To finish, sumptuous Soma chocolate pot de crème ($8) stacked with big roasted hazelnut chunks and the trendy salt sprinkle — smooth and satisfying. Apple tart tatin ($8) boasts pastry skills and sweet bitter caramel balance.

As the sounds of the Doobie Brothers waft up to the second floor, it becomes clear that Woodlot’s popularity is well deserved.

They are busy because they cook rustic, simple food as a cohesive team. Chef isn’t trying too hard, nor is he charging astronomical prices, and people find that comforting. That’s what they’re talking about.

293 Palmerston Ave., 647-342-6307, $80 Dinner for two

Post City Magazines’ food critic Christine Cushing graduated from George Brown and Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Paris. She stars in Fearless in the Kitchen.

Dynasty opens up shop in new location

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8:04 am

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Dynasty Chinese Cuisine in Yorkville has closed the doors on their old Colonnade location at 131 Bloor St. W.

But dim sum devotees needn’t worry as the new shop just down the street is already open at 69 Yorkville Ave., the former location of True Restaurant, among others.

In the Colonnade, work is underway on Le Bistro, a Charles Khabouth project billed as a casual Parisian eatery with a two-level restaurant and large street-side courtyard patio.

Anticipated opening is spring 2011.

Test results for two of T.O.'s top pastas

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1:31 pm

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Cold weather often makes us reach for comfort foods — especially bowls full of pasta: we tested two of T.O.’s favourite al dente dishes … and, yes, the results were less than warming.

TEST PARAMETERS: Results relate only to the items tested. A standard margin of error applies for each item and is available to view at www.postcity.com.

*DAILY VALUE PERCENTAGES: Health Canada uses a 2,000-calorie diet as the benchmark for nutritional labelling, and so did we. Subsequent values for total fat and carbohydrates are derived as a percentage of that diet.

Small is the new big when it comes to T.O. retail

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8:21 am

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Claustrophobics be warned. “Going micro”is fast becoming the latest trend in retail.

The new Sam James Coffee Pocket on Bloor Street at Clinton is barely big enough for an espresso machine, a skinny-jeaned barista and a cash register, so if you’re not a fan of tight spaces, it’s best to stay away.

But as the rent for commercial space in Toronto’s top areas continues to rise, going micro is becoming an increasingly attractive option for retailers like James.

“That’s the reason why there are no good coffee shops downtown or on Yonge or Bloor. Independents just can’t afford the capital investment,” says James.

Indeed, when James was considering opening up a location at Bloor and Clinton, he was looking at forking over nearly five times as much in rent as he was paying for his popular spot on Harbord.

So the barista decided to downsize. The 120-square-foot Coffee Pocket still costs more than double his rent on Harbord, but James can keep costs low — no extra staffing, table service or customer washrooms — while focusing on quality.

“I like the simplicity of it, just focusing on coffee, you know?” James says.

Roger Janes, owner of Blood and Bandages, a 97-square-foot barbershop at College and Dovercourt, wasn’t so pragmatic about his decision to go micro.

He was eager to start a business, and when the tiny space became available for less than $1,000 a month, he jumped at the chance, even though he could almost touch both walls at once.

“The smaller space, it’s a little more intimate. It worked out really well,” says Janes. “The only problem is I can’t do shaves in here. I don’t want to be bumping into anything while I’m shaving somebody with a straight razor.”

Over at Print Vintage at College and Ossington, a vintage clothing shop the size of a university dorm hallway, owner Shelley Pulak pays less than $1,000 a month.

She keeps her extra inventory at home, rotating her show stuff every few days. Where margins are small, every little bit of saving counts.

But going micro isn’t for everyone. “For clothing, it’s perfect. And for jewellery or CDs it would be great. But I can’t see a furniture store working well,” says Pulak.

New in the Neighbourhood: Copper Chimney

By

Andrew Mannsbach

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8:08 am

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A server can make or break your impression of a restaurant. And I will be the first to admit that, if the food at Copper Chimney had missed the mark, I’d still probably go back — just to be the recipient of our waiter’s winning smile and overall optimism.

Lucky for us, the authentic Indian cuisine equalled the service in terms of both quality and proficiency. There’s nothing unusual about the room of cream and burgundy hues. Frames give traditional colourful Indian fabrics an upscale edge, matched by the criss-cross of linens on tables and the professionalism in service.

Characteristic for an Indian restaurant, the long menu divides into protein and non-protein groups.

From 14 appetizers comes the likes of paneer tikka, vegetable samosa, amritsari fish and murg malai kebab.

Quality matches quantity in four very large vegetable pakoras with tamarind chutney (for just $3.25). These handheld minicakes make a real impact with their assemblies of grated potato, onion, spinach and seasonings under a light, expertly fried chickpea batter.

Aloo gobi ($9.95) generates smiling nods through mouthfuls, as well, but this time with the kitchen’s skilled slow-burn spicing that adds complexity to soft cauliflower florets and potato pieces. Fenugreek gives butter chicken ($11.95) its distinctive taste, but the tender chicken morsels and rich sauce of tomato and butter make this curry memorable.

Another recommendable dish is lamb pasanda ($11.95), although the intensity of the curry of cream, cashews and saffron has drowned out the lambiness of the tender bites of meat. Five different kinds of naan — plain, butter, garlic, rosemary and cheese — are available.

Every mango lassi is different! Copper Chimney’s version scores pretty high, although my personal preference favours a thicker rendition. Still, it’s refreshing and sweet and a little bit creamy.

2050 Avenue Rd., 647-436-2538, $50 Dinner for two

New casual Italian eatery lands on Mt. Pleasant

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8:24 am

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After a stint managing Joe Maggiano’s Italian Steakhouse and Bar — and many stints before that in the kitchens of various Toronto establishments — Nick Nada has opened up his own restaurant in North Toronto.

He just opened up Ozzero Restaurant and is continuing with the classic Italian theme. It’s a warm, casual setting, he says, with the average plate going for around $12, including such standards as eggplant lasagna ($12) and fettucine salmone ($14).

Ozzero is located at 505 Mt. Pleasant Rd.

The Baron of Bagels brings the goodness to Midtown

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9:53 am

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Thirty-one years ago Kiva’s Bakery, a GTA landmark, opened in Thornhill and 14-year-old Ben Rafael was there, working as a busboy.

Eventually he and his two younger brothers, Elan and Steve, took over ownership. Now they’re branching out with the newly opened Kiva’s Bagel Bar, a make-your- own sandwich-and-salad joint.

“We have all the old favourites,” says Rafael,“like cream cheese and lox, but we have some quirkier things, too.” They include the “tutti-frutti” filling, of cream cheese, strawberries and cinnamon.

He says everything at Kiva’s is made from scratch. “Nothing tastes like freshly made,and people know it.”

Kiva’s Bagel Bar is located at 15 St. Clair W., 416-960-5482.

Acclaimed T.O. chef leads double life as musician

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8:05 am

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Guy Rubino is a three-ring circus unto himself.

Ring one: chef and co-owner of Ame and Ushi Oni restaurants (formerly his celebrity eatery Rain).

Ring two: vocals and guitar for local rock band BMD.

Ring three: the man is shooting a pilot episode for a reality TV series in which he installs a kitchen on his tour bus and attempts to make locally sourced meals for his bandmates in each city they perform in.

BMD just wrapped up three shows: one in Los Angeles, one here in Toronto at the Rivoli and one at his very own Ame, a charity gig for the Cabbagetown Community Arts Centre.

Now, with plans to go on the road for an official tour,Rubino — a foodie ’til the end — turns his attention to proper sustenance for his musical cohorts.

“A lot of my musician friends,” he says, “they eat so badly on tour. It’s not like Europe, you can’t get a really nice sandwich at a truck stop."

Every city has one or two signature dishes, explains Rubino, like Manhattan’s clam chowder or Montreal’s famous smoked meat.

And usually, the ingredients for those dishes are available locally.

The band hopes to start their tour in the spring of 2011.

T.O. Sales Roundup: Jonathan and Olivia, George C.

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7:01 am

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Stay out of the malls this weekend and avoid the holiday stampedes with these juicy boutique sales. Vintage, menswear, lingerie, you’ll find it all here, with PostCity.com’s top five sales this weekend.

Jonathan and Olivia

The Ossington Avenue boutique – which, by the way, is the only Canadian supplier of Kate Moss’ Topshop line – is having a winter clothing sale. Get the goods for up to 50 per cent off.
Jonathan and Olivia, 49 Ossington ave.

Cabaret

Need a vintage fix? Head to this Queen W. boutique for deals on dresses, jewelry and menswear.
Cabaret, 672 Queen St. W

George C.

Ah. George C., purveyor of exquisite men’s and women’s clothing. Head to his designer-only Yorkville boutique for sales 20-50 per cent off.
George C. 21 Hazelton Ave.

Hill Street Blues

Choose your own discount at Hill Street Blues! The Richmond Hill jean factory is having a holiday promotion: buy one, get one half price, or buy two get one free.
Hill Street Blues, 10520 Yonge St.

Secrets From Your Sister

Ladies: stay stylish under your sweaters by hitting up Secrets for their December special. Buy any bra over $120 and receive 20 per cent off any pair of pajamas or camisoles.
Secrets From Your Sister, 560 Bloor St. W, 2501 Yonge St.

Q&A with Andriana Chuchman from Handel's Messiah

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9:34 am

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We speak to soprano Andriana Chuchman ahead of her performance in Handel’s Messiah, which runs from Dec. 16 – Dec. 21 at Roy Thomson Hall.

Who has better pipes: you or Susan Boyle from Britain’s Got Talent?

[Hysterical laughter] Oh dear God! Can I just say they’re different pipes?

This is your TSO debut. Any jitters?

It’s really my Toronto debut, and being Canadian, it’s a big deal, so yes.

This Messiah is “bigger than ever.” What does that mean?

Sir Andrew Davis re-orchestrated it, which is astronomically huge.

Handel’s Messiah, Roy Thomson Hall, Dec. 16 – 21

Opening Night: Cullen brings his merry musical to T.O.

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8:53 am

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Seán Cullen, star of A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The Forum, answers our questions about his new musical and reveals what’s on his wish list this Christmas.

You filled in for Bruce Dow in this play at Stratford after he was injured. Was this a Tonya Harding–Nancy Kerrigan thing?

Well, certainly Bruce and I are fiercely rivalled and extremely physical in that rivalry. We’ve been known to get in fights — slap fights, fist fights, all sorts of fights — but no, this was just lucky for me.

For the Toronto staging, you two are sharing the role. Do you foresee any problems?

Promotion-wise it’s a bit strange because you have to do two interviews, but otherwise no.

Summarize the plot in one breathless sentence:

A slave wants to get his freedom and is willing to manipulate everyone around him to get that goal.

What is on your wish list this Christmas?

I wish that everyone would go see the play, even Bruce’s show.

Canon Theatre, Dec. 15 – Jan. 16

North Toronto grad won’t stop be-Leaf-ing

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2:51 pm

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REPORT CARD:

STUDENT Roland “Roly” Harris
GRADUATED North Toronto Collegiate, 1965
BEST SUBJECT English
WORST SUBJECT Math
CURRENT JOB Author and judge

Judge Roland Harris remembers the Leafs in their heyday: the three consecutive Stanley Cups, the two dollars he paid for standing seats,, the packed and “buzzing” Maple Leaf Gardens. But it was almost two decades after that era that Harris began the project that celebrates that heyday.

Toronto Maple Leafs: Diary of a Dynasty 1957-1967, co-authored with Kevin Shea, Paul Patskou and Paul Bruno, chronicles the Leafs’ prime decade, when they won three consecutive Stanley Cups and, later, a fourth. The book recreates each season with transcripts of original broadcasts from Hockey Night in Canada, candid commentary from the broadcast booth, and conversations from the Hot Stove Lounge.

Nearly 40 interviews conducted by Harris are included.

Harris, who currently works in Barrie as a criminal court judge, began interviewing the hockey crowd a quarter of a century ago. Though he worked as a lawyer, he often wondered, “Why aren’t there any comprehensive interviews of the team during that period?” His curiosity led him to start interviewing former Leafs players; coaches; behind the sceners, like sports journalists; and even a former team physiotherapist.

Harris started collaborating with hockey historian Patskou, who, he says, has the largest collection of Toronto Maple Leafs video archives in North America.

When the duo was approached by sports author Kevin Shea, the idea of a book started to take shape. When the Leafs were smack in the middle of their glory years, Harris was a student at North Toronto Collegiate Institute.

He played football on the school team and the tuba in the band. In a compelling twist, one of Harris’s math teachers was Bill Watters, who would go on to be an assistant general manager with the Leafs.

“He was a good talker, which is obvious in his work today,” says Harris. Watters currently hosts Leafs Lunch on Rogers Sportsnet. Harris recalls his daily trek to North Toronto Collegiate, a halfhour walk from his Manor Road East home — shorter if he hitchhiked, which he sometimes did.

He recalls the school motto, “Only the best are good enough for North Toronto,” and describes his time there as “positive.” Still, was it tedious to go back in time and painstakingly recreate both the era of his high school days and of the electric hockey scene? “Not at all,” says Harris. “It was fun. I enjoyed it.”