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Tony Aspler’s Weekly Wine Pick: a dry, full-bodied white from California

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You’re more likely to find this style of wine in Northern Italy or Alsace — a dry Muscat. Straw coloured, the wine has a gorgeous perfume of freshly crushed grapes and cardamom with tangerine notes. Full-bodied and rich on the palate, it has the immediate suggestion of sweetness but finishes with a linger, dry flavour.

Food match: Asian dishes

 

Uvaggio Moscato Secco 2010, California. $19.95, Vintages #297515

Post City Magazines’ wine columnist, Tony Aspler, has written 14 books on wine and food. Tony also created the Ontario Wine Awards. He can be heard on 680News.

Grab of the Week: a chocolate cake that’s perfect for your Valentine’s Day sweetie

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Valentine’s Day is now one week away, which means that you need to start thinking about a gift for your sweetie (if you haven’t already). And what says I love you better than a chocolate cake? Not just any chocolate cake, but a heart-shaped one with a customized message to tell them how you really feel. Covered in pink fondant, this five-inch chocolate and sour-cream cake with strawberry-vanilla buttercream is now available at King West’s newest bakery.

Valentine’s Day chocolate cake, $35. Available at PS by Prettysweet, 848 King St. W., 416-500-5652

Gracie Carroll is a Toronto-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in ELLE UK, ELLEcanada.com, Plaid magazine and FILLER magazine. Keep up with her daily blog at www.graciecarroll.com.

Weekend Warrior: a Black History bus tour, The Sex Show, Chinese New Year, bacon beer, Lady Gaga

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Discover Black History

For you history buffs, Heritage Toronto has partnered with the Ontario Black History Society and BAND (Black Artists Network in Dialogue) to arrange a special bus tour this weekend that celebrates Black History Month. The route will take you around the city to explore where people of African descent made significant contributions to our city. Afterwards, head to the Mackenzie House for an exhibition on Toronto's early African community. Visitors can also make copies of The Provincial Freeman in the restored 19th century print shop for that extra touch of nostalgia.


Pleasurable Art

Don’t let the title fool you into thinking this is something sleazy. The Sex Show — which runs until Feb. 17 at Gallery 1313 — is a look at a variety of interpretations of what is sexual. Displaying various mediums from art, film, sculpture and collage, the exhibition, which is carefully curated by Phil Anderson, approaches a topic that’s usually muttered under the breath. But please, don’t get caught ogling the sculptures for too long. Valentine’s Day is around the corner after all. 


Year of the Snake

Chinese New Year is fast approaching. On Feb. 10, come celebrate the Year of the Snake on Spadina, where the new year kicks off with some opening ceremonies at noon, followed by traditional lion dancing until 2 p.m. And since you’re already in Chinatown, take note of the lantern decorations, Chinese luck banners and posters, and maybe stop in for a quick bite among the many restaurants before you call it a day.


We love the smell of pork in the morning

It’s no surprise that Torontonians love their pork (our city is known as Hogtown after all). But who’s to say that pork should only live on our plates alone? Our taps are about to get a fresh infusion of bacon-brewed beer (you read that correctly). Join HogsBack Brewing Company for its Oatmeal Bacon Stout launch party at The Only Cafe on Saturday, from 5-7 p.m. As Hogtown residents should already know, bacon makes everything better, and beer is no exception. We hope.


Little Monsters and Poker Faces

Although Lady Gaga has already started recording her next album, her ongoing world tour, The Born This Way Ball, makes a one-day stop at the Air Canada Centre this weekend. The tour was pegged as the fifth highest-grossing tour of 2012, but if you were sure the show was sold out, don’t worry — there are a few tickets left (we checked). 

Rooster Coffee House expands to King Street East

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After opening in the east end in late 2009, Rooster Coffee House quickly became a neighborhood institution. And now, just over three years later, owners Shawn Andrews and Dave Watson are opening a second location at 333 King Street East.

The new café is expected to open by April 1, and it will share much in common with its predecessor: it will continue to use coffee from Te Aro (now known as Pilot Coffee Roasters) and it will continue to showcase suppliers from as close to the neighbourhood as possible.

Still, Andrews and Watson are going with a different espresso machine this time around (a Synesso Hydra, rather than a La Marzocco). The new location will also have a more prominent focus on food, and it will also feature a rotating selection of “guest coffee roasters” to keep things fresh.

It’s a solid addition to the neighbourhood, and good news for the George Brown students nearby.

Lady in red: Jeanne Beker picks Toronto’s most sophisticated little red dresses for Valentine’s Day

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Jeanne Beker turns up the heat with a sexy selection of little red dresses that are perfect for a romantic Valentine’s date.

WINNER: Flirty and flattering
NICOLE MILLER DRESS FROM ANDREWS, $395
“I love all the ruching in this dress. It can be very flattering and helps hide the bulges! It’s just the right length, just above the knee. And it’s plain enough that you can dress it up with a great brooch or necklace.”

 

Pretty in polka dots
PAPILLON DRESS FROM PEPPERTREE KLASSICS, $80
“This is fun for the younger gals out there, with its sassy little polka dots. It is a dress with attitude, and you probably have to have a little attitude to wear it. Very sexy, very cute, very Valentine’s.”

 

All in the details
TWENTY CLUNY DRESS FROM HOLT RENFREW, $595
“I love this, this has sizzle! The beautiful peplum detailing at the waist and the fantastic silk leopard print lining are very reminiscent of Dolce & Gabbana. It’s so well constructed and really is the kind of dress you could wear all year.”

 

Chic shift
JUDITH & CHARLES, $295
“Judith & Charles do great little dresses that always have a great fit. This is a number that can be dressed up or down — with the right pair of shoes, you could really glam it up. It is a practical, versatile piece with great detailing.”
 

 

Simply sexy
ROBERTO RODRIGUEZ DRESS FROM PAOLA DI, $465
“This dress is great. It proves that long sleeves can be very sexy. Just look at the way Naomi Watts looked at the Golden Globes in her similar Zac Posen dress with the dip in the back. This one has nice lines and a very modern look.”

 

Lovely in lace
LAUNDRY BY SHELLI SEGAL DRESS FROM PAOLA DI, $595
“This is absolutely elegant. You could wear this to a black-tie event with the right bling and accessories. It’s a very rich-looking dress. I’ve seen similar ones in some very, very expensive collections, and the fact that this is under $600 is fantastic.”

 

Short and sweet
RED VALENTINO DRESS FROM HOLT RENFREW, $595
“I just love these little knits. This dress looks like a little skirt and top, but it’s attached all in one piece. It has lovely detailing. This fabric is fun for all year round — you could wear an opaque tight for day or even go with a sheer for the evening.”

 

First Draught: a saison from Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Oast House Brewers

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New breweries seem to sprout up in groups. The once-dry Junction now has two; new ones are opening in Muskoka and now Niagara has a few. Last November, Oast House joined Silversmith Brewing Company in the growing club of breweries in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The Farmhouse Saison is a notable selection from Oast House’s small portfolio of beers.

The two beers in Oast House’s Farmhouse series (the second one, the Biere de Garde, will be released soon), are bottle-conditioned for at least two months. This treatment gives the saison a cloudy haze that lends a glow to the dark straw colour. The aromas and flavours twist together spicy notes like clove and cardamom with fruity notes of orange peel and banana. There is a good deal of European-style hops in the background that leads smoothly into the refreshing, dry finish.

Historically, the saison style (originating from the French-speaking southern half of Belgium) was made in the early spring and stored for summer consumption during the busiest time of year for farm workers.

That said, I think saison’s ability to pair with just about any food helps it break free from the seasonal typecasting more than other hot-weather beers like wits and weissbiers. The bottle-conditioning provides a lively carbonation that cuts through the grease from fried foods; the fruity, herbal and floral notes contrast with darker meat flavours; and the slight hop bitterness keeps spicy food in line. 

I look forward to sampling more of the brewery’s offerings, like the Barnraiser Country Ale and the Crop Duster Belgian IPA.

Appropriately for Niagara, Oast House partners Cian MacNeill and Mike Berlis are both accredited sommeliers with winery backgrounds. The brewmaster and third partner, Kevin Somerville, helped get Niagara College’s brewmaster program off the ground.

If you can’t make it out to Niagara-on-the-Lake, the Oast House saison is also available in Toronto at barVolo, The Rhino and Indie Ale House. Other beers from the catalogue are carried by Tequila Bookworm, Wvrst and Bar Hop.

MacNeill sees what he calls the “new Niagara” as encompassing more than just wine (or even beer), but also distilleries, restaurants, food trucks and markets that are about “diversity, creativity and ambition.”

Niagara Oast House Brewers Farmhouse Saison, $11 for a 750 mL bottle at the brewery

In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including Spotlight Toronto and his own site, Food With Legs. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter.

Plutino Group’s new modelling division picks up where Ford Models Toronto left off

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When Ford Models left town, it was easy to predict that another agency would soon come strutting down the runway in an attempt to take its spot. Enter Plutino Group. The all-in-one fashion and beauty agency, which represents makeup artists, hair stylists and more, has just added a modelling agency to its roster of its services, the Star reports.

Heading up the new foray is none other than Cathy LeDrew, the former director of Ford Models in Toronto. With a vast wealth of knowledge and experience from helming a top modelling agency, the transition to Plutino Group should be seamless for her.

Though the company may not have the international recognition of an agency like Ford Models, Plutino’s walk down the runway is already brimming with confidence. The group already represents over 40 models, and it will launch the Got Style channel in the spring — a hub where viewers can interact with like-minded creative individuals.

[Toronto Star]

Meet a Comedy Troupe: Fratwurst

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Fratwurst is an all-beef (meaning, all-male) comedy troupe, piled high with Evan Arppe, Eric Miinch and Josh Murray, who create raucous laughs that are something to relish. The trio regularly make the rounds on the local comedy circuit and will be featured in next month’s Toronto Sketch Comedy Festival. We chatted with cast member Miinch about their creative process, Cripple Claus and condiments.

How did you guys come together?
Eric Miinch and Jim Robinson’s Conservatory class at The Second City didn’t want to stop working over the summer break, so they started a troupe called Sketch Your Freak On. Josh Murray was in the next conservatory class and was invited in. Evan Arppe was Jim’s friend from Queen’s University. He did only standup but we invited him in because he was weird and incredibly hilarious. After an underwhelming second show, the extra-curricular troupe dissolved but the four of us persevered. Jim Robinson has since left Fratwurst.

So how did the name come about?
We spent several hours proposing names over a game of pool and a couple of pitchers upstairs at the Rivoli. It came down to either Uncle Dad, Moon Farmers or Fratwurst. Uncle Dad was already a sketch troupe in England so we couldn’t take an already-used name. We realized that there aren’t any farms on the moon, so that name didn’t make sense. By process of elimination we chose Fratwurst.

Describe a typical Fratwurst show.
We start with an established sketch that we know will do well. Then we put in a bunch of new sketches that have never seen the light of day, or that are being workshopped. We’ll end on a sketch that we know will do well, just in case the audience hates everything else. That’s an old sales trick — end on a good sketch so the audience doesn’t hate you. We usually have at least one clown-inspired sketch, one which features wordplay, one pop-culture sketch, one musical sketch and one where Josh mugs the audience.

What’s your creative process like?
We’re very independent when it comes to writing premises and first drafts. Josh will have an idea and he’ll mull it over for years. Evan is a traditional formulaic writer, following the rule of three. Eric likes clowns and genres, so he’ll put a well-known set of characters in a strange universe (e.g. our Oompa Loompa sketch features an Oompa Loompa and his wife in a Chekhov play). Then we’ll pitch them, edit and do some rewrites together and put them up onstage. Afterwards, we’ll take stock, rewrite and remount. Some make it through. Most don’t.

What’s the most outrageous sketch you’ve ever done?
“Cripple Claus.” In this sketch, a disabled uncle in a wheelchair, who’s dressed as Santa Claus, tries to convince his two naïve nephews that he is the real Santa Claus. He communicates with a tape-recorder that has pre-recorded responses to their questions. It ends on a very sweet note, despite the offensive setup. It is extremely tasteless, but Eric will never give up on it.

Who’s your dream guest performer?
Bill Murray, Eric Idol, Bruce McCulloch, Mark McKinney or Super Dave Osborne.  

If each member were a hot dog condiment, what would they be?
Evan is corn relish. A lot of people forget about corn relish, just like Evan. But when they see and taste him, they go, “Oh yeah! Evan is delicious! How could I forget about him?!” Eric is onions. Vidalia onions. He adds a powerful presence, but too much will completely obliterate any taste of hot dog. Weird people eat just onions. Josh is the bun. You don’t realize how much you enjoy it until it’s not there and then suddenly you’re just holding a bare hot dog with corn relish and onions all over you hand and you’re like, “Shit! That bun really held everything together.”

What’s next on the horizon?
A bunch of fundraisers, Sketch Fest and we’re also writing a play.


The details:

Year Started: 2009
Cast Members: Evan Arppe, Josh Murray, Eric Miinch
Influences: Mr. Show, Mr. Bean, SNL, The Kids in the Hall, Christopher Guest
Next Gig: Rivoli, 334 Queen St. W., 416-596-1908. Mar. 5

Local landmark denied crucial funding

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Staff at the Toronto Botanical Garden (TBG) are having to flex their creative muscles to find solutions to avoid closure now that the City of Toronto has denied them an annual subsidy of $160,000 following their annual budget meeting.

For more than 30 years, the garden has received $25,000 per year for maintenance. Seeking an extra $135,000 per year toward maintenance, the garden was instead given a one-time funding of $75,000.

“We are going to be talking about the future to bring things a little bit more in line with our own current economic reality,” said TBG executive director Aldona Satterthwaite. She stated that the funding initially requested covered less than one-tenth of TBG’s operating budget, which comes close to $1.7 million. With 23 staff members and no entry fees to the garden, Satterthwaite was hoping to see the funding grow as the garden itself grew.

Though staff at the garden informed the city that they were in danger of closing without the increased funding, Satterthwaite is trying to remain optimistic.

“Looking further down the road, it’s always difficult.”

“We were happy to get anything,” she said. “It’s not perfect, but it’s certainly better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.”

However, according to TBG president and co-chair Allan Kling, the coming years are even less predictable. “We can carry on this year,” said Kling. “Looking further down the road, it’s always difficult.”

“It’s our only botanical garden in Toronto,” said Ward 25 councillor Jaye Robinson. “It’s really a hidden gem. It’s just getting the word out.”

The garden is now going to have to rely more on outside donations, which have slowed in recent years. “[The city] is using us as a pilot project for these things that look like parking metres, but they’re actually donation machines,” explained Satterthwaite. “You put the money in and it spits you out a charitable tax receipt.”

The year 2013 will prove to be a year of many tests for the garden, but Satterthwaite is determined to keep it alive.

Drink This: the mulled apple cider from Enoteca Sociale

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Enoteca Sociale may have taken the city by storm last year with a particular kale salad, but there’s much more to the place than leafy greens. Currently the enoteca is serving its answer to Winterlicious: a set dinner menu based on a glorious round of parmigiano reggiano that’s been aged for six years.  

In terms of cocktails, the list is short but sweet. Back for a second year, the mulled cider ($12) is a big draw during the brisk winter months. Farm-fresh Royal Gala apple cider is mulled in-house with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and ginger. The apple base is topped with splashes of Maker’s Mark and Amaro Montenegro liqueur, steamed to order and finished with a cinnamon stick and a curl of orange rind.

If this doesn’t take the chill away, we don’t know what will.

Enoteca Sociale, 1288 Dundas St. W., 416-534-1200

For more must-try Toronto cocktails, check out our Pinterest page

 

Table Talk: Joanne Kates reviews JaBistro

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My sushi fatigue is so much better now. Sushi fatigue is when it all tastes the same and nothing much jumps out, flavour-wise. It’s when raw salmon and tuna start feeling boring. The thrill was gone.

And now it’s back! JaBistro is new, and save for the crazy expensive places, it’s the best Japanese resto in Toronto. Forget sushi fatigue, these people have rescued raw fish from the doldrums.

Much of the sushi is in the aburi style of blow-torched sushi and the oshizushi style of pressed sushi. Aburi means very lightly blow-torched fish, and oshizushi is sushi that’s been pressed into a rectilinear plastic mold to compress it slightly.

They re-fold your napkin when you go to the washroom. They tell you — in marvellous detail — the lineage of the various sakes and why the Akita sake, served in splendid tiny glass cups, tastes so fruity and clean.

The tables are stylin’ brown leather and they serve sushi on slabs of slate. Service this good recalls the days of brocade tablecloths.

Oshizushi, the splendid server tells us, is one of the original types of sushi, from when travellers pressed rice and fish into small wooden molds for transport. Today the molds are plastic and the motivation gastronomic rather than convenient. Pressing the sushi ever so slightly — and briefly — renders it somewhat denser and hence its flavours are more intense, oh joy!

The pressed, cured mackerel sushi is heaven on a rice cube: impeccably fresh, ungreasy mackerel, lightly cured with delicate sauce and topped with either a dab of daikon miso or fried onion threads. Best mackerel ever!

Aburi, torched sushi, has never turned my crank. But chef Koji Tashiro, who learned to cut fish at the fabulous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, adds a little (secret) sauce to the fish, torches it to seal the sauce, and the fish becomes so tender it’s creamy, its savour enhanced by warming. The graceful little dabs of topping on the mackerel reappear on sashimi, which looks like a grand floral bouquet on a long slate platter. Curls of daikon, batons of cucumber and shavings of carrot decorate the freshest possible fish garnished with little dabs of delights like daikon purée scented with dried fish.

The house special JaBistroll is uni, real crab and salmon rolled in rice studded with crunchy flying fish roe in sauce that’s a cross between hollandaise and light mayo. As if that were not enough, Ja has a good dessert (not so common in Japanese restaurants): matcha puff, green tea–inflected choux pastry layers filled with creamed custard scented with sesame. Fabulous!

Ja’s owner is James Hyunsoo Kim, who brought Vancouver’s Guu to Toronto, and more recently Kinton Ramen. This is the guy who is rescuing Toronto from tasteless sushi.

JaBistro, 222 Richmond St. W., $130 Dinner for two

Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cordon Bleu de Cuisine in Paris. She has written articles for numerous publications, including the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chatelaine, and she was the Globe and Mail’s restaurant critic for 38 years.

Meg Tilly: the actress talks about her new book and her hit show, Bomb Girls

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There are many nouns that can be used to describe Meg Tilly: actress, writer, Oscar nominee, survivor. Now there’s a new one to add to the list: Torontonian. After a decade away from the spotlight, writing books in rural British Columbia — a life U.K. tabloid The Daily Mail termed a “sometimes eccentric seclusion” — Tilly is in Toronto and back on our screens.

The actress, who found fame and critical applause in the 1980s for her portrayal of Sister Agnes in Norman Jewison’s Agnes of God, is currently starring as frumpy, grumpy matriarch Lorna Corbett in Global’s top-rated Second World War drama, Bomb Girls. The series, which just began airing its much-anticipated second season, looks at the fireworks that go off when women are pressed into service in a wartime munitions factory. The show is set in 1940s Toronto and is filmed mostly in a warehouse in Etobicoke, leading Tilly to take up residence in Toronto’s Annex neighbourhood with her husband, author Don Calame. Now she says, she is loving city life.

The creative couple first relocated when Tilly started filming the first season of Bomb Girls around two years ago. Initially, the show was destined to be a six-part miniseries, but it proved such a hit right off the bat that Global made the decision to bring it back for a full second season, much to fans’ delight. So Tilly, who was born in California but grew up and spent her life in B.C., has decided to jump into city life with both feet.

“When we were looking around, my husband and I thought, ‘If we’re going to do this city living thing, let’s really do it.’” The Annex, with its crowded, artsy bustle, was the obvious choice.

“The main thing, when I was looking, was I wanted to be somewhere we could walk,” says Tilly, contrasting the ease of strolling to Toronto’s museums and galleries with her life on the West Coast, where she had to drive everywhere.

“I love the neighbourhood feel to the Annex,” she says. “I love how people walk out, and I love how there are kids around. We know so many of our neighbours already.”

“I love the neighbourhood feel to the Annex. We know so many of our neighbours already.”

She also has dived right into Toronto’s ever-expanding foodie scene. She loves College Street eatery Frank’s Kitchen (“You always feel you are getting all these little appetizers for free!”) and Rosedale’s Black Camel (“big, juicy sandwiches”) and is making a conscious effort to explore new territory.

“When you move somewhere new, you start off with this flurry of energy and then you trail off,” she says. “So when we moved here, we made a pact with ourselves to try somewhere new once a month.”   

She hasn’t, though, cut ties completely with B.C. She has a son there, and when she heard a grandchild was on the way, decided to keep a small place on the West Coast. “I didn’t want to be a grandmother in a hotel,” she says.

Tilly is actually visiting the West Coast when we talk on the phone. Her manner of speaking is somehow full of contrasts. She’s friendly, quick to laugh and self-deprecating, but there’s a hint of something flinty there. It’s a voice filled with strength and vulnerability, a testament to the many hurdles she has overcome in her life, including growing up in a dysfunctional family and facing several unexpected career setbacks.

It’s easy to see how she has ultimately triumphed as an actress, winning so much praise for her portrayal of Lorna Corbett, Bomb Girls’ enigmatic shift matron. Tilly’s character is a complex one who spends the better part of the first season rigidly enforcing rules and espousing morality, yet gets pregnant by her secret Italian lover.

“She was always very black and white, but now she is starting to see a lot of colours and shades in between,” says Tilly, hinting at her character’s arc in season two. Tilly clearly enjoys playing Lorna, her first big TV role in almost 20 years, and is quick to praise the show’s writers.

“The writers blew my socks off,” she says. “They had such insight into being a woman in wartime.” Though the show is fictional, the characters and events are based on true Canadian history.

Tilly calls her character “a friend” and talks about how she roots for her when reading the scripts, yet it was far from love at first sight: Tilly bursts out laughing when asked if she wanted the part as soon as she heard about it.

“I auditioned, but really it was just for my new agent,” she says. At the time Global was casting the first season, Tilly had just finished playing the gin-soaked Martha in Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? out in Victoria. Her return to the stage had been widely praised, but Tilly says she wasn’t at all sure she wanted to be back on television until she auditioned for the Bomb Girls’s director, Adrienne Mitchell.

Tilly says, “I read, and it wasn’t bad –— I still had a bit of Martha in me. Then Adrienne gave me a little adjustment, and her direction was really good. And then she gave me another layer to Lorna. This went on six or seven times, and by the time I’d finished reading for her, I knew I wanted to do it. I would have read the telephone book for her.”

Falling into the character of Lorna is just another twist in the tale of Meg Tilly. In her 52 years she seems to have inhabited countless different lives. After a childhood filled with abuse at the hands of her stepfather, she found beauty in dancing. But her blossoming career was cut short after just a few years when she broke her back in an accident. Then she bounced back as an actress, receiving a Golden Globe and an Oscar nomination for her role in Agnes of God. There have been a number of men in her life — her current marriage is her third, and she had a five-year relationship in the early 1990s with the then up-and-coming British actor Colin Firth, with whom she had her third child.

By the mid-1990s she had vanished from screen and stage to concentrate on her family. She took up writing, producing works that dealt with the horrific abuse she received as a child.

This month, she is publishing A Taste of Heaven, her fifth book and one which she hopes will be a different direction from her previous works. Writing for middle-school kids, Tilly says she wanted to see if she could write “something warm and cozy” for a change.

“My normal way of writing is I set out to write something cozy, but my childhood was a bit dark and so some of that tends to come across,” she says.

But now, starring in one of TV’s top shows, with another book out and a new life in one of Toronto’s best neighbourhoods, this latest chapter in Tilly’s story is shaping up to be a great one.

Bomb Girls airs on Global on Wednesdays at 8 p.m.