Sometimes this job is such a pleasure. The upside is that I have a fabulous experience; the downside is that it highlights, in stark contrast, the inadequacy of what passes for fine dining elsewhere in this city.

Enoteca Sociale, while being undeniably Italian, offers anything and everything but pizza. It’s described as ‘food that nonna makes’, but this is one hip nonna (grandmother to us).

The menu is rather brief but wisely edited. Every expected category is present but Enoteca puts its own imprint on each entry. We have become numb by the omnipresence of buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes, but here they are assembled with a grace note of marinated anchovies. ($11). We are not surprised to find ravioli but the treat is that it is stuffed with duck liver and sautéed in brown butter. ($13).

This carte is brought to you by the folks who created the much lauded Pizzeria Libretto, a few blocks away.

On our first visit, we fall in love with an appetizer of Artichoke Frites. Before we leave, we are told that the menu will be changing the next day but that this dish will remain. A month later, the menu remains unchanged but the Artichokes are gone and, as I pout, I am offered a variety of reasons, none of which ring true. C’mon guys, I have only had this dish once before – in Rome, where they are called Jewish Artichokes – so please bring it back.

I must say, I am somewhat mollified by the replacement dish: Polenta Fritto, which arrive as breaded and fried discs that are impossibly light due to the fact that the mixture has been whipped with ricotta and quickly fried. They sit in a pool of romesco sauce; a classic with flexible ingredients, including ground almonds and roasted red peppers. ($8)

Another innovative first course is Veal Sweetbreads and Arugula. This organ meat has never really entered the main stream in Toronto but I haven’t had it in years so I dare. These succulent nuggets could accurately be termed ‘popcorn’ sweetbread. Bite sized pieces have been flash fried but are greaseless. Their richness is cut by a tangle of peppery arugula. A tasty but unnecessary caperberry ailioli is there for dipping. ($11)

Pastas are great. Pappardelle’s wide noodles are perfectly dressed by braised rabbit with the meat having been pulled from the bone. Simple seasoning allows the natural tastes to shine, so do not expect a sauce. ($13).

Enoteca offers a tasting menu of 6 courses for $45. Tonight, the pasta entry is Spaghetti Vongole; clams in white wine garlic sauce. I ask if I may order it and my wish is granted — I am served a perfect plate. The pasta is beyond reproach and the tiny clams are briny and juicy. ($14)

Mains are less consistent than the Antipasti . Only three Secondi are offered and we sample Grilled Cornish Hen with Peperonata (red peppers). A petite portion is unremarkable and shows insufficient contact with the grill. For this one, some creative seasoning would be welcome. ($16)

A few thoughts to make your visit at Enoteca perfect: courses are not North American sized so you likely will want three, adding either secondi or dessert to the pasta; you will have an option of sampling from the in-house cheese cellar which is remarkable; and, save some money for wine sampling.

They have installed an Enomatic system which permits for opening pricey bottles and serving one glass at a time, thereby allowing the unique opportunity of ordering such gems as Brunello and Amarone by the glass. You will be relieved of up to $29 for this privilege but for Tuscan wine addicts such as me, it makes for a wonderful treat.

Three desserts are offered, each priced at $8. The ubiquitous flourless chocolate cake is here but is set apart by the drizzle of orange syrup and a topping of whipped mascarpone. Zeppole, or Italian doughnuts, are filled with hazelnut pastry cream and I am in heaven.

This time, I must sample the pride of Enoteca Sociale – the cheese carte. I leave myself in the hands of the server and he assembles three offerings: one sharp, one creamy and one blue. They arrive on a board with fruit, nuts, and toasted white bread and I can barely finish it.

This is one great place and I am planning a prompt return for the food, the wine and the unsurpassable service. From the moment when I arrive and the hostess recognizes my voice from the brief call for reservations, to the late night when we appear after only one visit and are remembered by name, to the assurances that I can have anything I desire, experienced on warm evenings under the stars, it would not be possible to have better care. Don’t miss it.

3 3/4 STARS

1288 Dundas St. W., 416-534-1200