Toronto chef aims to bring World Pasta Master title to Canada
A local North York chef has won the opportunity to represent Canada at The Barilla Pasta World Championship — a global pasta cooking competition where chefs from all over compete for the title of World Pasta Master.
Chef Kshitiz Sethi recently beat out three other chefs in a gruelling semi-finals match hosted at the Sub Zero, Wolf and Cove showroom. The winning spaghetti con le sarde was topped with sardine fillets, pine nuts, raisins and saffron, with fennel pollen and fronds used for the finishing touches.
Although chef Sethi is best known for his work at the Italian eatery Paese Ristorante, he cannot be pinned down to just one culinary influence. Sethi’s first taste of the industry came when he was 15, still living in India, helping his father prepare goods for his bakery. Flash-forward to 2016 when Sethi landed in Toronto as a student in George Brown College’s culinary management program while simultaneously fine-tuning his chef skills as a part-time kitchen helper at Paese Ristorante. In under two years he became the full-time Chef De Partie. Now, Sethi handmakes all the pasta at Paese and his hard work will be taking him to Paris for the Pasta World Championship.
Having already won the semi finals, Toronto and the rest of Canada should be pretty confident in Sethi’s abilities under pressure. The competition will be held on October 10-11, with more than 20 chefs from around the world coming together to see whose pasta is crowned king.
Check out Barilla.com/en-ca for additional details. @barillacanada, #PastaWorldChampionship.
Juno Award winner Sean Jones on love and Casa Loma
Juno Award-winning R & B singer Sean Jones has returned to Casa Loma this summer for his Monday night Soul in the City concerts, which kicked off June 3 and run until Aug. 27. He will also be performing as part of the summer concert series at Jackson Triggs Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake on Aug. 10 with special guests Jackie Richardson and Molly Johnson. Here we find out how Jones met the love of his life, Andrea.
How they met
Many moons ago I was part of an R & B group called In Essence. The band and I were invited to a wrap party for a TV show called Platinum. We were on our way out when I walked past this stunning woman with a gorgeous smile. Our eyes met for a moment, and I felt like I had to go up and talk to her. I of course had to wait my turn as she was being hit on by another Canadian musician. I waited until he had moved on, made sure my breath was OK and proceeded to introduce myself. Who knew 15 years later we would still be together.
The first date
We exchanged numbers at the party, and I gave her a call but got her voice mail. When I hadn’t heard back from her in a week, I figured she wasn’t interested. Truth was she had gone out of town and ended up giving me a call when she got back. Our first date was at Demetres [a dessert café]. We sat and chatted for a couple hours. I think I did most of the talking. She actually thought I was conceited, but I was just really excited about the fact the group had been signed to a record deal and we were about to travel to Cuba to film our first video. Anyhow, some of my charm must have crept through that conceitedness because we made arrangements to meet again weeks later.
The courtship
I think you can describe our courtship as slow and unsteady! Lots of ups and downs. Breakups and makeups. I had just gotten out of a long-term relationship and was in a boy band doing some pretty exciting things. Settling down was not on the top of my list at the time, and to make things even more complicated, Andrea had four beautiful young children from a previous relationship that I had to consider. I wasn’t sure I was ready for another relationship let alone one that would make me a father. All that being said, I started to have deep feelings for all of them. I know I broke her heart — probably a couple times — trying to figure out what I wanted.
Making it official
I’m not sure when we actually made it official. In fact we really don’t have an anniversary to speak of [as common law spouses]: something Andrea reminds me of each year! I’ve actually tried to find out the date of that first party we met at numerous times, but no one seems to have a record of it anywhere — including the restaurant that it was held at. I think she just broke down all my defences over time, and eventually I had no choice but to surrender to her love. Sounds like a song lyric doesn’t it.
The offspring
Andrea and I recently had a child together. Her name is Savannah, and she is 19 months old.
Shared hobbies
We both share similar taste in music, movies and TV series. We try to watch the big ones together. The other person isn’t allowed to move on to the next episode until we’re both caught up. It can literally take us half a year to get through a 10-episode series because of this unwritten rule.
Secret of success
I think we complement each other. I have a ton of patience where she has very little. I’m a total dreamer with my head in the clouds. She is much more pragmatic and realistic in her approach to things. Not to say that we don’t butt heads at times because we definitely do, but at the end of the day, we always come to the realization that we just want the best for each other.
Life after retirement
I can see us doing a lot of travelling when we retire. There are so many places on our bucket lists that we have yet to visit. We both love the beach and warm weather, so hopefully we’ll be spending the winter months some place warm. And we hope to be surrounded with grandkids that we can spoil. I see the joy that Savannah brings to my parents, and I look forward to that time in our lives.
Cycling safety and education in Toronto with Jeremy Diamond
See all posts by Diamond and Diamond Lawyers
Riding a bike is a great way to combine daily exercise with environmental responsibility. While you get a cardiovascular workout, you are helping to reduce noise and carbon-based pollution, benefiting everyone in the community.
However, bicycle riding comes with a number of risks and responsibilities. The number of dooring collisions reported to the police increased year over year in both 2015 and 2016 and was up 58% in 2016 from the 2014 baseline. You are the smallest vehicle on the road, and it’s up to you to remain visible so that the larger vehicles remain aware of your presence. You need to remain especially alert in traffic situations where drivers react in a hurry, or at intersections where they might turn without checking to see if a cyclist is there.
Nor is it enough to be a good defensive cyclist. For your own safety, as well as the safety of other vehicles on the road, you need to make sure you are following the rules of the road.
Ontario bicycle laws were designed to protect cyclists from having a bike accident. All cyclists should use bicycle hand signals properly and stay in designated Toronto bike lanes wherever they exist.
If they get in an accident, Ontario cyclists are entitled to claim no-fault accident benefits even if they are liable for part or all of the event. However, because motor vehicles can do significant damage to cyclists in a crash, it is best to take proactive steps to avoid collisions in the first place.
The following cycling tips will help bike riders stay safe on the roadway. You will also come away with a better understanding of exactly what to do if in the worst-case scenario — a collision with a motor vehicle.
Ontario Bicycle Laws
The Highway Traffic Act (HTA) was written by the Ministry of Transportation’s Road Safety Group for the purpose of instructing motor vehicles. By and large, guidelines for bicycle traffic are an afterthought. In fact, the law regards them the same as any other vehicle with which they share the road.
Nevertheless, some parts of the law address cyclists specifically. They are as follows.
HTA 62 (17): If you ride after dark, your bike must be equipped with two lights, white front light and a red rear reflector or light. You must also have reflective tape for your bike to render it more visible in the moments just before sunset and after sunrise when glare can make it difficult for motorists to see objects clearly.
HTA 64(3): A bike must have at least a rear brake system that allows the bike to come to a complete stop on dry terrain.
HTA 75 (5): Bikes must have a bell or horn.
HTA 104: Youths under the age of 18 must wear a helmet that is specially approved for cycling. It is up to parents or guardians to ensure that children under 16 comply with this rule.
HTA 140 (6)/144 (29): Cyclists are not allowed to ride in a crosswalk. The law says you must dismount and walk your bike when utilizing this space where pedestrians may be present.
HTA 142: Cyclists must signal a turn before turning and look behind them to make sure other vehicles are aware of their intention. They are allowed to use their right arm when signalling a right turn.
HTA 144/136: Cyclists must stop for red lights and comply with all other traffic signals, just the same as motor vehicles.
HTA 153: Bike riders must ride in the direction of a one-way street, the same as motor vehicles.
HTA 166: Cyclists must stop two metres back from a streetcar door, then wait until departing passengers have reached the curb before moving again.
HTA 175: Just like motor vehicles, cyclists must stop for school buses when the red lights on top of the bus are flashing. The penalty for failing to stop is a fine of $400.
HTA 178(2): Cyclists are not allowed to carry a passenger unless the bike was specifically designed for more than one person.
HTA 179: Ordinarily, a cyclist must ride on the right-hand side of the road, consistent with the flow of traffic. The exception to this rule is when cyclists have dismounted and are walking their bike on a road with no sidewalks. In this case, you are treated as a pedestrian and must walk on the left-hand side of the road, facing oncoming vehicles. The only time you would remain on the right-hand side of the road is when it would be dangerous to cross heavy traffic to get to the other side.
HTA 218: Cyclists are required to identify themselves if police stop them from breaking any traffic law.
HTA Reg. 630: Bicycles are not allowed to travel on expressways, freeways, or any road where there is posted a “No Bicycle” Sign.
Beginning in January 2017, the province enacted new laws regarding signal lights put in place specifically for cyclists. Cyclists must obey these signals or face a fine of $85, or $120 in community safety zones.
About Jeremy Diamond
Jeremy Diamond is a lawyer and member of both Ontario and Florida Bars. Jeremy practices in the area of Plaintiff personal injury litigation. Click here to learn more about Jeremy Diamond.
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Hot summer essentials guide
From beauty to bling to beer tasting, we’ve picked several cool products and services from Toronto area businesses that will make you look and feel HOT HOT HOT this summer!
Blo Blow Dry Bar: Leaside
Combat the frizz and smooth your summer tresses! Award-winning Dream Coat delivers the glossy hair of your dreams and withstands humidity; even lasts 2-3 shampoos! Find Dream Coat and other A-List Colour Wow products at your local Blo Blow Dry Bar — Now Open in Leaside! 1693 B Bayview Avenue, 416-489-5300

Dream Coat Supernatural Spray ($34.95)
Boutique Dita
FABER Women Knitwear uses the highest quality cotton and wool blends, which are provided with an exclusive “Best Comfort“ finish — a yarn finish containing aloe vera extract and jojoba oil. 5937 Leslie St. (beside Pickle Barrel), 416-490-8979

White cardigan ($390.00)
Gideon Aesthetics and Medispa
Get your glow on with a replenishing facial treatment. Oxygenating 3-in-1 facials combines exfoliation of the outer layer of the skin, infusion of revitalizing nutrients, and oxygenation of the skin from within. There is an immediate improvement in skin tone, texture and radiance. 1849 Yonge St. Ste. 307, 416-483-4541

Oxygenating facials (prices vary)
Paola Di
Pick the perfect accessory! New to Paola Di, Klasified Hair clips in all shapes and sizes. Add a little fun to your hair, with a variety of hair clips to chose from. Hair clips range from $28-$32 and are available in different shapes and sizes. 3357 Yonge St., 416-322-0430

Klasified Hair clips ($28-$32)
Peppertree Klassics
Lissette pants, Capris, skorts, jeans and more. Made in Canada with tummy tuck comfort, awesome comfy pants and jeans from size 2 to 16. Fun prints and basic solids, in a great selection of sizes. 137 Main Street North, Markham, 905-294-3882

Lissette pants ($125 to $145)
Van Rijk Jewellers
Summer means no fuss, but that doesn’t mean you have to skip the glam. Diamond studs are a timeless expression of love and beauty; the perfect gift to show that special someone that you care. Available in many sizes and price ranges, diamond stud earrings are the perfect accessory that go with everything! 90 Eglinton Ave. E., 416-440-0123

Diamond Stud Earrings (Pricing upon request)
Cowbell Brewing
Grab your friends and hop on the Cowbell Express! Service runs from Toronto to this destination craft brewery located on 120 acres of beautiful farmland in Blyth, Huron County. Next stop… fresh air and fresh beer. Purchase tickets at VIPOntarioTours.com. Sunday Trips Only. 40035 Blyth Road, Blyth, ON., 1-844-523-4724

Craft Brewery Day Trip ($120)
William Ashley
William Ashley carries North America’s largest selection of tableware, kitchenware and home decor. The assorted Quartz Stainless Steel Steak Knife Set by Degrenne is a modern cutlery with acrylic handles. Dishwasher-safe, this playfully colourful 6pc steak set is perfect for everyday use. 131 Bloor Street West, 416-964-2900

Degrenne 6pc Steak Knife Set ($96)
Blowdry Lounge
It’s all about the blowdry! Designed to maintain healthy and styled hair in between haircuts and colours, this summer, treat yourself or that special someone with a gift package from any of their three (3) Toronto salons. Purchase five (5) signature blowouts and save $5.00 on each blow dry service! Avenue Rd., Yonge St., & Bay St. locations. 416-783-2569.

Blowdry Packages (start at $200)
Marquis Jewellers
Honour life’s special moments and milestones with a piece of fine custom jewellery. Choose from an extensive array of high quality loose diamonds and coloured stones. Experts will design and create a piece as individual as the person who will be receiving and enjoying it. 2 Bloor Street West, 416-964-7773

Custom diamond rings (pricing upon request)
Shop local with these summer finds by Jeanne Beker
Heading off on a glam vacation this month? Jeanne Beker has picked the perfect pieces to pack. Forget that boho beachwear and channel your inner Italian movie star for an elegant and chic look — whether you’ll be traipsing across the Italian Riviera or not.
A) HAUTE HAT
“Who doesn’t love a straw hat you can pack in your bag? There’s a great sense of drama to this.”
Andrews, Bayview Village, $450
B) LIMONCELLO YELLOW
“Wrinkled linen goes hand-in-hand with Italian summers. This is a real statement jacket.”
Andrews, Bayview Village, $595
C) SLIP ’N’ SLIDE
“A local woman is having these beautiful sandals made in Morocco. It’s some great artisanal work.”
Palmetto at Snapdragon, 622 Mt. Pleasant Rd., $155
D) FLORENTINE CHIC
“This reminds me of the scarves I bought on the street in Florence. They’re so romantic. You can wear them in so many ways.”
Canopy Blue, 2582 Yonge St., $78
E & J) COASTAL CO-ORDS
“If you are going on any kind of cruise, you must get this. It’s an ode to the stripe, but there’s a retro feel to it. Such a sophisticated look.”
Judith & Charles, Bayview Village, $495 (blazer), $275 (shorts)
F) RETRO CHIC
“I like the print and the colour combo. You can see the old Hollywood stars wearing this.”
0039 Italy at Snapdragon, 622 Mt. Pleasant Rd., $325

G) GO GINGHAM
“A black and white gingham is so classic with this beautiful hot pink trim on the inside and the cuff.”
Maska Mode, Promenade mall, $132.30
H) FLORAL FUN
“It’s so retro with the nice wide strap. I love the grommets and the little tie detailing. It would be very flattering.”
Avec Plaisir, 136 Cumberland St., $398
I) BUON VIAGGIO!
“The canvas is pristine with great leather trim. A real standout, statement bag.”
Studio D, 2570 Yonge St., $396
K) LACE IT UP
“This espadrille is done in a really beautiful, romantic way, and I love this Missoni print.”
Castaner by Missoni at Studio D, 2570 Yonge St., $297
L) WHAT A STUD
“I just love these studs that have become iconic for Valentino, and there’s something very nautical about the feel of this rope.”
Davids, 66 Bloor St. W., $970
M) NOT YOUR NONA’S CLUTCH
“I love the functionality of this: a great grab-and-go bag that women always look for.”
Snapdragon, 622 Mt. Pleasant Rd., $125
Could Michael Coteau be Ontario’s next premier?
With Doug Ford at a near rock bottom approval rating, we thought it was time to check out his possible future competition. Michael Coteau, MPP, grew up in Flemingdon Park, attended Leaside High and has spent 16 years in government. But we had no idea about the comic book collection.
Why did Doug Ford’s “For the People” campaign resonate so well with Ontarians?
People often refer to Doug Ford as the accidental premier. And I think the reason why people say that is that he inherited a coalition of opposition that built over time. He benefitted from a lot of anger and a lot of frustration, and combined with the traditional Tory base, he was able to pull it off. But we have to remember that of the eligible voters of Ontario, I think Doug Ford received about 20 per cent of the vote.
When did you first feel political?
The most memorable point was an issue in my community where kids were going through a hole in a fence to play on the pool ice. The ice was wet, and I was fearful one of the kids would fall in. I told the superintendent to fix the hole, but he didn’t. Then I asked the building management, but they didn’t do it. So then I opened up the blue pages and contacted my local government rep, and it was fixed in an hour. I was so surprised by that ability to make those changes. From there, I got hooked on the whole aspect of politics and bringing about community change.
What is your proudest moment from your 16 years in politics thus far?
I am most proud of the work I did to bring forward an autism plan that actually worked for families, a new plan that produced major movement on the actual wait-list. I felt proud because parents in the beginning were protesting the changes happening in government, but I worked with them, stood with them a long way to the point where we had buy in from the community. That’s one of my proudest moments.
Was the decision to pursue the leadership a difficult one to make?
It was very difficult and took me several months to make. But it came down to a couple points, mainly around the instability that’s in Ontario today. We have those on the extreme right of the political spectrum and others on the complete opposite end, and they’ve been dictating the political discourse, I think, for quite some time. I thought now is the opportunity to bring it back to a place that I think represents the majority of Ontarians.
You would be the first black leader of a major political party in Ontario, let alone the premier. What does that mean to you?
I think first and foremost, there are so many descriptions of who we are. I’m a black man, an immigrant and so on. I think now, more than ever, the most important piece going forward is making sure there is someone there that embodies and captures everything Ontario is about, someone who is restoring and raising the bar on political discourse and making sure people that feel like they’ve been left behind, people who have potential, we are looking for ways to support them so we can unlock that potential. Now more than ever, we need to lay down a foundation that will prepare Ontario for the bright future I think we have.
What is your greatest fear?
Letting my family down.
Which trait do you most deplore?
When people are selfish.
Which living person do you most admire?
My mother.
The greatest love of your life?
It’s my family, my two girls and my wife.
When were you happiest?
Standing in my backyard and looking at my kids when they were a bit younger and they were playing and just having fun.
What skill would you most like to have?
The ability to use mathematical and scientific equations rapidly in my mind to figure out solutions. The art of deduction, like what Sherlock Holmes had: that type of ability would be pretty awesome.
What is your most treasured possession?
I think, you know, my comic book collection.
How big is the collection?
Not too big, maybe 1,500 comics.
Which is your favourite?
I’d say the Secret War series, which I predict will be the next big Marvel push. I don’t know if you read comics, but it’s when Beyonder comes and tries to take over the planet, and the good guys and villains have to work together.
What will the next election be fought over?
I think there will be one central issue, and it’s going to be values.
Jeremy Diamond uses marketing for national expansion
See all posts by Diamond and Diamond Lawyers
Jeremy Diamond is the face of Diamond and Diamond, one of Canada’s most well known Personal Injury Firms. Four years ago, his firm changed ownership and he opened up his new head office in Toronto. Since then he has expanded to several additional locations across Ontario, including Windsor, Ottawa and London. Jeremy Diamond also has plans to bring the brand across Canada in 2017.
The first-mover advantage can allow for quick amassing of market share in any industry. Diamond and Diamond is one of several firms in Canada that took advantage of a changing landscape and developed a multi-level marketing mix, which branded their firm as one for the everyman. Insurance companies were branded as the large faceless corporations, while personal injury lawyers were superheroes, who would fight to get you justice. Suddenly, injury lawyers were everywhere, vetting digital marketing pros to battle it out for Google rankings or securing media agents to land them deals with major sporting franchises.
As a professional storyteller who works with both big brands and solo practitioners, I wanted to learn more about Jeremy Diamond’s expansion and specifically what role advertising had in his success.
So, I asked him some questions, and he answered them. Diamond told me that about five years ago, Ontario-based personal injury lawyers began launching aggressive “U.S. style” ad campaigns. While Diamond and Diamond, for example, bought its first radio spot on a local Toronto station back in 2005, it ramped up its media buying spend in 2012. While the Law Society of Upper Canada changed its rules in 1987 to allow Ontario law firms to advertise in any medium, few lawyers took advantage of it. The rise of personal injury advertising is mainly due to the increased competitiveness in the space. Insurance payouts for catastrophic claims have decreased substantially and as such there are the same amount of firms battling for less dollars in the space. Offering a unique value proposition is vital in this space. He knew the attention was on the radio, so he focused there.
While radio was a great starting place, Jeremy Diamond recognized each of the major mediums – radio, TV, digital, print and out of home, differ in terms of conveying your message. This has really set him up to succeed, as many people think all platforms are created equal.
“Radio is a great start for a new company to get their message across as it provides high frequency and reach with a relatively low-cost CPM. Television brings together audio and visual and has a sort of “Hollywood” effect in the sense that the message tends to stay firmly fixated in the mind of the consumer.
Out of home is a strong option but I would caution newer businesses that it usually works to keep a brand top of mind and does not generate direct leads, in the same manner as say a digital campaign,” Diamond said.
He also recognized that in 2017, digital is the bedrock of business nowadays. A well researched and executed Adwords plan combined with white hat SEO and a social strategy that adds value can provide direct dividends on an immediate basis. He’s right about that.
Diamond shared that keeping the messaging consistent and concise across the board has allowed his work to resonate over other competitors with similar ad spends. Their slogan “Nothing is Tougher than a Diamond,” has been used on nearly all of their broadcast creative since day one. Diamond told me that when it comes to marketing you really can only communicate two things. Theirs has been experience and advocacy since the beginning. Other things like clean, concise design and colour elements, Jeremy Diamond credits his graphic design team with executing well on that front. They also leverage their awards to pull ahead.
“Public recognition of your commitment to justice is both humbling and a great way to instil consumer trust,” Diamond told me.
When I asked him about the future of legal advertising over the next 5-10 years, he said, “I think the Law Society of Upper Canada may step in with some recommendations based on feedback and we are always willing to accommodate. The space has become much more competitive since we started so I think we will see firms look for unique ways to differentiate themselves. While an outright ban on legal advertising would be a step backwards, I do believe that
The digital space will also become more crowded with a higher emphasis placed on SEO and social media advertising. Content will also play a big role. You see many firms using video elements and guest blogging to communicate with potential clients.”
I was also intrigued to know more about the partnerships Diamond has developed with major sport franchises such as the Ottawa Senators. I asked him how does the vehicle differ from your other advertising methods?
“I started with sports teams because I’m a fan personally but I also noticed that the fan experience is incredibly unique. It’s a communal time and its associated with bonding among friends and family. We wanted to join the excitement that surrounds sporting events. One of the big things that we sought to do was to create our own unique marketing opportunities. As such, we sponsored things like the rules of the game or even an injury report. These things take place as a time when you have high user engagement and as such are extremely effective.”
Sash Restaurant is old school with a new twist
A whisper after 5 o’clock, Summerhill’s new Sash Restaurant is completely empty. OpenTable is probably to blame — the website was adamant that there was only one table left to snag before 6:30. So, here we sit, just us and a small army of servers. We won’t see another patron until 5:39 p.m.
This is the chef-owner Sash Simpson’s first foray into restaurant ownership. He oversaw the kitchen at Mark McEwan’s now-shuttered North 44 for over two decades — having worked his way up from line cook to exec chef — so he’s well versed in the uptown crowd.
His menu angles to bait the Rosedale and Forest Hill set with upscale classics: fancy mushrooms, caviar, foie, tartares (from land and sea), and game meats, all at prices that rival Scaramouche’s… without the view. On closer inspection, many dishes are in fact North 44 carryovers that have been resurrected at Sash. (Chef says although “it’s a very similar style of food; there is no repeated dish.”)
The interiors are awash in greys, with tabletops hugged by white linens, chairs of the high-backed variety, and a giant wall of windows letting in the afternoon light. It’s (also) all very North 44. Even the waitstaff uniforms (black aprons, grey vests with brass buttons that match the light fixtures) are a vestige of ’90s fine dining.
Water is proffered: still or sparkling. With many restaurants offering this free of charge now, we were surprised to see a $10 charge on the bill.

While we wait for the room to fill, baguette arrives alongside a quenelle of whipped truffle butter.
Simpson’s love of all things haute comes across in the menus. One is devoted to oysters (think Raspberry Point, Green Gable, Fanny Bay), another to caviar, with 10 grams of the Russian Osetra at $140 being the most accessible. The rest of the edible offerings take inspiration from across the globe, with a few nods to Simpson’s Indian upbringing.
To start, there’s the Sash Salad, a plate of a half-dozen different greens tossed with sweet peas, pear, and chanterelles that could use a sear. A namesake salad for $16 should wow, but this does not — it would make for an excellent side salad, perhaps. Despite the ratio of servers to patrons (we’re still outnumbered), our waiter, when asked, is unsure which leaves we’re consuming.
A starter-sized ravioli parcel arrives next, a comforting package filled to bursting with more of those sweet peas. The pasta itself is perfection, yielding with just enough chew, and the beurre noisette sauce is decadent without being heavy. The only issue: it could use more salt. Our request for more seasoning is not met with fleur de sel, but a Sifto-filled shaker.
Mains are priced from $36 for a classic chicken supreme to $150 for a Canadian prime cowboy steak. After inquiring about menu standouts, our server suggests the Chilean sea bass — one of chef’s signatures — and the roasted lamb. The former arrives atop a delicate pool of Madras curry, the fish perfectly tender and the curry light enough to let the fish shine while still boasting a backbone of flavour. A triplet of oblong vegetable pakoras add substance, while a few fingers of fried okra add crunch.

For the lamb rack, lollipops are splayed out nicely atop a mound of white bean ragout with fiddleheads. Minty chimichurri enhances the medium-rare meat, which tears off the bone with ease. This dish — and all the rest — has very good moments, but needs something more to truly satisfy.
During our stay, chef Sash is nowhere to be seen, in either the open kitchen nor the dining area. As he leads a restaurant that aspires to heights it doesn’t quite reach, it may do him well to make an appearance working the pass or simply working the room.
Could Katz’s closure signal the death of the deli in Toronto?
After nearly 50 years dishing out deli sandwiches, Katz’s Deli & Corned Beef Emporium permanently closed in May. This closure is the latest in a series, as the network of traditional Jewish delicatessens in this city dwindles. Another shuttered deli, Caplansky’s, closed both of its brick and mortar shops last year.
“It’s the last thing we want to see,” says Lorne Pancer, whose father and grandfather opened Pancer’s Original Deli in 1957. “[Katz’s] were good people. They worked hard. It’s sad to see another big dynasty restaurant gone.”
Since the closure of Katz’s, Pancer’s has seen an increase in business from the former regulars of Katz’s. During a Monday lunch hour, nearly all the tables were heaped with plates of pastrami on rye and kishka platters. The lineup at the takeout counter reached the kitchen at the back.
“Business has always been busy here,” says Pancer. “We are seeing more clientele from Katz’s that are new, without a doubt. It’s wonderful that they’re all coming here, and they’re still loving their deli.”
However, this surge in business is still a bittersweet change. David Gelberman opened Wolfie’s Delicatessen at Sheppard and Bathurst 44 years ago. He has also borne witness to the slow death of the deli.
“When I opened up in ’75, there were almost 18 delis in the city close to me. Today, you can count on one hand how many delis there are,” Gelberman says. “Two delis. So who’s left?”
Gelberman, whose menu still only boasts a tight list of seven items, has seen the evolution of the deli. He’s watched as old school delis have started slapping cheese on their sandwiches (eating dairy and meat together is prohibited in kosher dietary laws).
He has also witnessed the introduction of the modern deli, an entirely new animal in itself — places like Zelden’s Deli and Desserts and Anthony Rose’s Rose and Sons Deli on Dupont.
“I think they’re trying to reinvent a Jewish-style deli with today’s appetite,” says Gelberman. “Which I can’t blame them for. How else are you going to survive? You want to bring in the kale, I understand. But it’s not a deli.”
Gelberman has had to change his business practices as well, under increased pressure from the market. He closes at 3 o’clock four days a week — he used to be open seven days a week until 7 o’clock. He’s getting nervous about the new condominiums going up in his area but says he’s also noticed a resurgence of appetite for pastrami and smoked meat.
“Whether a deli like mine can still survive for many more years, time will tell,” he says.
As for Lorne Pancer, he’s confident that Toronto’s oldest deli will survive the next hundred years.
“We’ll never sell out,” he says. “We’ve made sure with the partners involved in the deli that it’ll be passed on to the next hands when people retire. Pancer’s will be around here forever.”























