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Midtown french favourites tantalize at Didier

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Chef Didier Leroy is certainly one of the most understated but highly accomplished chefs in Ontario.

I visited his restaurant, Didier, for one of his signature dishes that, to my palate, he seems to do better than anyone — beef tartar. Of course, I also enjoyed his perfectly rendered classic French cuisine.

We began with an amuse-bouche of a single organic cherry tomato, stuffed with finely-diced green beans and asparagus, and topped with a mayonnaise dressing.

My first course of oeufs en cocotte "Diane" followed — soft poached eggs topped with coarsely-minced sauteed venison and sauce poivrade. The coarsely textured venison and its savory sauce were a flattering complement to the richness of the soft poached egg.

The dish I came for followed: hand-cut, traditionally-dressed beef tartar. I love this with lots of freshly ground pepper and crispy thin toasts. The dish came with a picture perfect presentation of carrots and green beans from which this exceptional chef coaxed an amazing sweetness in a way rarely accomplished.

I then shared my partner’s fall off the bone succulent lamb shank, presented with some nicoise olives, a single carrot, a cherry tomato and a potato pancake. Again, Didier, a master saucier, created the "dipper’s paradise." Every little bit of sauce was mopped off the plate, leaving no residue.

Finally, tarte au citron with raspberry meringue delighted our eyes as well as our mouths. A richly thick marshmallow-like toasted meringue topped the tarte lemon custard… quite fabulous and presented with gracefully sliced strawberry.

  And all this, with the choice of the shank or the beef tartar, for a prix fixe of only $58.00 per person!! What an amazing value!!

Didier Restaurant, 1496 Yonge St., (416) 925-8588

Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.

Best cafe/bar: In transition in Parkdale

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Parkdale.

There, I said. it. The dirty P work. Sure, the village’s name still conjures up images of drugs dealers and derelicts, and rightly so. They’re still here. 

But the truth of the matter is that for the last several years, gentrification and the pressures from a  booze-soaked business explosion in the West Queen West and Ossington Avenue areas have pushed people and their parties under the bridge at Dufferin.  

Opened in late 2009 by three veterans of the Toronto bar and nightlife scene, Francesca Zielinski, Julian Reyes and Duarte Carr, Blondie’s has quickly made a name for itself, in large part to doing two very different things very well.  

During the day, Blondie’s joins the ranks of area coffeehouse counterparts Salvador Darling turning out perfectly timed espresso-based beverages in the front of the bar’s space.  

As the nine to five day ends, the space comes alive to the sounds of a rotating selection of DJs and party nights, often quickly packing people onto the intimate leather couches under the glow of antler chandeliers.  

1387 Queen St. W.

416-532-7410

 

Harbourfront Centre

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Rare abalone gets served up in Toronto

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In my search for fun and exciting seafood to bring to the Oyster Bar, I found some abalone for you to enjoy, and with a great story to boot. 

 Abalone is a large sea snail that can be served raw on the half shell, stewed or fried in the kitchen. I, of course, like to show things on the half shell — as fresh and live as possible. It has the texture of a firm carrot and is almost as veggie sweet in the flavour. The abalone dines on seaweed and kelp and thus tastes of what it eats. 

Abalone is, as well, very difficult to find. I didn’t know how hard until I went actively looking for the snails.

The pinto abalone (Haliotis kamtschatkana) is a naturally occurring sea snail found up and down the Pacific coast of North America. Apparently, we like the critter so much we have over-fished the wild stock as it is now listed on the Threatened Species list with Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO).

That means that we are not allowed to harvest, catch, or serve it at all. Unless, that is, the abalone is cultured in a farm.

Luckily, I’ve found the only abalone farm in British Columbia. The Huu-ay-aht First Nations community has set up an abalone farm with the DFO in Bamfield, B.C. This project employes six people and they are responsible for operating the abalone hatchery and for releasing hearty, healthy abalone into the wild.

To help off-set the costs, and in an effort to establish a live abalone market, the Huu-ay-aht are allowed to sell some of the abalone to restaurants. C restaurant in Vancouver was the first to get it in and Starfish is the second.  

Before we get the abalone in I have to have a license to handle the "at risk" species. The permit allows me to receive and serve the pinto abalone from the farm. I may not take the abalone out on a catering job, nor can the shells leave the building. I actually have to destroy the shells or mail them back to B.C. The shells are worth something in an after-market, and allowances for this have not been created yet in the structure. 

You are welcome to come down to Starfish and enjoy the crisp, clean taste of this delicacy of the sea, and actually help re-introduce the stock into the wild! We will show them for $15 each, and will run as long as the season permits. 

Shuckingly yours, Patrick 

Patrick McMurray is the owner of Starfish Oyster Bed & Grill and The Ceili Cottage. He is also a World Champion Oyster Shucker. Catch his blog weekly at PostCity.com.

Perfectly petite at Yonge Street's Phi & Me

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Phi & Me initially caught my eye driving to a client – it was the clean look and their gorgeous chandeliers. I stopped in on my way home and was immediately struck by the femininity of everything in the boutique. From coats to blouses to skirts to accessories, Phi & Mi is filled with ruffles, rounded details, and soft colours.

This boutique is a great choice for petite women who are looking for more variety. Although the sizing isn’t just petite, many of the styles – mini blazers, shorter skirts, and cropped sleeves — are cut with a petite figure in mind.

Many of the styles will also work perfectly for women with a triangle body shape. This is the woman whose shoulders are narrower than her hips and looks best in clothes that match that shape. The a-line skirts, coats that flare at the bottom, and empire waist shirts at Phi & Mi work really well for that triangle body shape.

So if you’re a petite woman with a triangle body shape who loves feminine clothing, this is THE boutique for you!

Phi & Me is located at 2616 Yonge Street – 416.487.4368

Always on the lookout for Toronto’s best boutiques!

Wendy

 

As a personal style coach with THE REFINERY, Wendy Woods translates the world of fashion into a personal style that makes her clients shine, while introducing them to Toronto’s unique boutiques.

 

Toronto mayoral race heats up

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The mayoral race is heating up, with four major candidates filing in the last two weeks and another expected to decide by the end of the month.

Ontario’s former deputy premier, George Smitherman, is considered a front-runner in the race. But Smitherman, dubbed  “Furious George” by the NDP because of his aggressive style, has some hurdles to overcome – including ongoing questions about the eHealth Ontario spending scandal.

Rocco Rossi, one of Smitherman’s biggest contenders,is a former Liberal fundraiser. He has gained support from two influential Conservatives: Rod Phillips, a former chief of staff to Mel Lastman during his first term as Toronto mayor, and Andy Pringle, a former chief of staff to John Tory while he was leader of the provincial Progressive Conservative party.

Meanwhile, Deputy Mayor Joe Pantalone has experience on his side having served as a city politician since 1980. Aside from running John Tory’s mayoral bid in 2003, he has been Mayor David Miller’s right hand man.

Giorgio Mammoliti, running on the platform of tighter gun control and a possible casino in Toronto, has said he will let his Liberal membership expire at the end of this month and rid himself of the affiliation.

John Tory, who was expected to be the strong right-of-centre candidate , instead announced he will be taking over the Toronto City Summit Alliance, a coalition of civic leaders in the Toronto region. 

Expected to decide by the end of the month is Councillor Adam Giambrone, the 32-year-old chair of the TTC. A recent Angus Reid-Toronto Star poll showed Giambrone with 17 per cent support from decided voters – putting him in second place behind Smitherman’s 44 per cent.

There are also more than a dozen other hopefuls, including JP Pampena, known for his public relations work for Jason Wallace, the father of baby Kaylee — who was at the centre of an organ donation controversy last year.

 

Froggett creating 'unforgettable' charity meal

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Keith Froggett, executive chef of the Forest Hill fine dining fortress Scaramouche, is creating an "unforgettable" four-course meal for a special evening fundraiser to benefit The Stop Community Food Centre.

The event is planned for Jan. 24 at Scaramouche, with a ticket price of $250 that includes wine pairing.

Chris Brown, ex-chef of the groundbreaking Toronto restaurant Perigee, and Stop’s current food enterprise co-ordinator, made it one of his new year’s resolutions to recruit the city’s top chefs to help out with the centre, and it looks like he’s off to a good start.

Froggett, who has helmed the Scaramouche kitchen since 1995, is considered by many to be one of the more talented chefs in the city. The menu for the evening is as follows:

  • Rabbit Rillette with in house pickled carrots and seedlings from our Green Barn
  • Cold smoked then poached Arctic char with an olive oil emulsion over a beet and celery root salad
  • Roasted elk over a sun choke and apple puree with roasted Green Barn mushrooms

Stop’s mandate is to "work to increase access to food in a manner that maintains dignity, builds health and community and challenges inequality," and includes programs such as a food bank, community gardens, community kitchens and drop-in centres. For more information go to www.thestop.org. For tickets contact Danielle at 416-652-7867 ext. 250 or [email protected].

 

Not so ‘average’ any more

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STUDENT Janet Davidson
GRADUATED Branksome Hall, 1966
BEST SUBJECT English literature
WORST SUBJECT Chemistry
CURRENT JOB CEO,Trillium Health Centre
 

JANET DAVIDSON REMEMBERS herself in high school at Branksome Hall as average: not a class leader, not many extracurricular activities, not much to make her stand out.

Now she stands tall as one of Canada’s 100 most powerful women, as named by the Women’s Executive Network (WXN) in November.

Davidson made the list alongside the likes of a judge on the Supreme Court of Canada and the chair of the Canadian Medical Association.

“I don’t even know how to describe it,” she says of being named to the list. “You kind of gulp when you hear it. It was outstanding.”

She was chosen by the board of WXN as a winner in the Public Sector Leader category. Winners have to manage their organizations well, have companies that perform well and give to the community.

Davidson has had a storied career in the health field since she graduated from high school in 1966, including time with the Pan American Health Organization in Washington and the Ministry of Health in Alberta Davidson is now the CEO of Trillium Health Centre in Mississauga.

According to WXN founder Pamela Jeffery, they were impressed with her handling of the hospital’s recent deficit and by how she ably took over Kingston General Hospital as interim CEO in 2008, alongside her duties at Trillium.

Davidson says she has no doubt that it was Branksome Hall that helped her realize she wanted to go into the health field. In her last two years at Branksome, she was part of a summer program set up by the school that saw her volunteer at Princess Margaret Hospital. She spent her time doing small but important things for patients: sitting and talking with them, accompanying them to cancer treatments, getting them coffee.

Along with her professional career is a long record of volunteerism with the International Red Cross and Red Crescent where, aside from spending time as one of the movement’s top governors, she’s worked hands-on in disaster relief.

Aside from making the list of most powerful women, Davidson has received many awards, including being made an officer of the Order of Canada and being given an honorary doctorate from the University of Windsor.Branksome Hall recognized her last year by giving her the Allison Roach Alumna Award, awarded to those who live by the school motto and “Keep Well the Road.”

 

Local officers receive medals for bravery

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THE ONTARIO MEDAL for Police Bravery was recently awarded to six York Regional Police officers to commemorate remarkable bravery.

Constables Sean Boyes, Sean Doran, Gilbert Farquhar, Wade McGhee, James Ward and Gregory Whyte all received recognition for their heroic response to a devastating car accident in Richmond Hill on Oct. 31, 2008.

It had begun as a routine night, with officers patrolling the area to ensure the safety of area trick-ortreaters. The six officers had no way of knowing they would become heroes by the end of the night.

But Ward says he, like the thousands of firefighters, police officers and EMS workers who act courageously in the face of danger, was simply doing his job.

“You’re trained to react,” he says. “You have it in you.”

It was Officer Farquhar who heard the crash and was the first to arrive on the scene,Ward says.

Ward got his call about a car accident near Bayview Avenue and 16th Avenue around 10:30 p.m. He responded immediately, racing even faster after receiving word that the car had burst into flames — with its occupants trapped inside.

When he arrived at the scene, Ward went straight for the fire extinguisher in his trunk. By the time he got to the site of the accident, Boyes and Farquhar were working on extricating the driver from the car. That’s when Ward says he noticed a passenger sitting in the back seat, surrounded by flames.

He immediately snapped into action.

“I just thought: ‘I have to do something to help these people, to get them out of the car,’” he says.

Ward had to break the frame off of the window with his bare hands in order to reach into the car. He was then able to squeeze in up to his waist and managed to pull the girl out through the window as officers emptied fire extinguishers around him to beat back the flames.

Once Ward had lifted the girl halfway out of the car, another officer helped him remove her from the vehicle, and they carried her to a grassy area a safe distance from the burning car.

“Her lips were moving, and I wasn’t sure if she was trying to talk to me. So I just held her hand and let her know that someone was still with her,” he says.

There was one thing that was running through Ward’s mind as he set about rescuing the girl trapped in the back seat.

“I was thinking I want to get her home to her family,” he says.

Ward thinks of his own family often when he’s on duty. He says he knows he wants to go home to his wife and children at the end of the day. As someone who gets paid to protect the public, he says he wants to make sure that everyone else gets to do the same.

Ward sustained first- and second-degree burns on his hands and forearm in his efforts to rescue the girl.

In spite of the officers’ heroic actions, only the driver of the vehicle survived.

Since responding to the accident,Ward says he hasn’t been able to look at a car fire the same way. For him, it’s important to focus on the good things and to open up to others about the bad.

“What I love about this job is walking down the street and seeing little kids and smiling at them and making them realize that the police are there to help them when they’re in trouble,” he says.

Ward is in his 10th year of service for York Regional Police.

While it’s an amazing honour to be recognized for his actions that night, Ward says it’s humbling at the same time.

He feels that all people in his line of work who do amazing community service deserve to be commended.

It was truly a team effort, he says, with everyone springing into action.No one had to be told what to do. Everyone just did what they had to.

“As police officers we’re always taught we have to act and we have to act fast,” he says.

Of his fellow officers who were there that night, “I’m happy that I stood right next to every one of them,”Ward says.

 

Jazzing up the lives of Toronto kids

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IT WAS BY chance that Howard Rees found the inspiration for a program that would bring the joy of jazz to Toronto youth.

While cleaning one day, the Davisville Village resident uncovered pages composed years before by his mentor, jazz pianist Barry Harris. As he began to rehearse the melodies, the music evoked warm memories of the annual concerts he had performed while studying under the legendary musician.

Rees, also a jazz pianist, was reminded of how important the experience had been for him and imagined how wonderful it would be if he could put together a similar concert for children living in Toronto.

His Outreach Project, now in its sophomore year, introduces students to jazz music who wouldn’t otherwise get the opportunity to train with master musicians.

Focusing on a different at-risk neighbourhood in the GTA each year, this year’s program incorporates students from the downtown core.

“It’s about giving the kids a forum to feel good about themselves because I think that’s where real change starts,” Rees says.

In addition to the elementary school children who sing in the large jazz choir, the ensemble also features a big band, the Toronto Jazz Chorus and a string section from North Toronto Collegiate Institute. Participants meet over four months to rehearse for a final concert that will take place on Jan. 28 in Koerner Hall at the Royal Conservatory.

The five-year initiative was organized with the Toronto District School Board and Toronto Catholic District School Board and is run in partnership with DareArts, a not-for-profit organization.

After a successful trial run attracted approximately 300 students, participation has nearly doubled this year. Rees says he plans to expand the program to accommodate more students next year.

The importance of exposing children to the arts is about nurturing creativity, Rees says. “Jazz allows one the ability to be free,” he says. “It’s the height of creativity as far as music goes.”

Not only does music help students tap into their creativity, it is a confidence booster, too.

In only its second year, the program has already garnered the praise of teachers, parents and government officials alike.

“We’ve had all sorts of reports from teachers on children who had previously been really quiet and shy in the class who are now happy to ask questions and stand up and answer things,” Rees says.

There was even one case where a child had stopped stuttering, he adds.

To date, the program has run on a $70,000 budget, donated entirely by one individual.

“We are incredibly fortunate that we have had the backing of a beautiful individual who basically just believes in the music and believes in reaching young people with the music,” he says.

The generous contributions of the anonymous Toronto-based donor have allowed Rees to deliver the program for free. KPMG has also announced plans to sponsor the program, he adds.

Several Scarborough-area elementary schools — which have been hoping to participate for the past two years — are possible candidates for next year’s program, he says.

Rees says, at the end of the fiveyear initiative, he hopes to renew the program for another five years.

It’s a way for Rees to carry on the teaching tradition that shaped his path in life. In his early 20s, he moved to New York for what he thought would be a six-month stay to study under Harris. Six months turned into seven years.

In Harris, Rees found a mentor and a friend.

Upon his return to Toronto, Rees set up Howard Rees’ Jazz Workshops — now Canada’s oldest independent jazz school. It has since attracted students from around the globe.

For Rees, his reward from the Outreach Project is simple: “To see the look on the kids’ faces when they’re at rehearsal or when they’re at the concert … that makes it worthwhile in itself,” he says.

 

Happy stew year!

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AFTER THE OVERINDULGENCE of the holiday season, we are making those New Year’s resolutions with a vengeance!

We want to start eating better, yet the cold weather draws us to more comfort foods that are usually laden with fat and salt. That’s where delicious stews come into play. Stews are one-pot wonders that can consist of any type of protein, vegetable and grain. They are a powerhouse of nutrition and very satisfying as a meal.

My cooking liquids consist of a tomato sauce or a beef or chicken stock. Add dried herbs during the cooking and garnish with fresh herbs, such as basil, parsley or cilantro. You’ll enjoy the variety of stews below — all tasting different but finding common ground in their deliciousness. Serve them over mashed potatoes, couscous, quinoa or even whole grain pasta. And of course, most importantly, enjoy!

MOROCCAN MEDLEY

CHICKEN AND COUSCOUS TAGINE

THAI SEAFOOD STEW

ROSE’S TIP

You can prepare stews using a slow cooker. It’s easier and less time consuming. If using a slow cooker, a good recipe to start is
necessary. When adapting regular recipes for a slow cooker use more herbs than you usually would (add them in the last hour).

Keep in mind, milk products tend to break down during slow cooking, so add them during the last hour. It’s perfect for large cuts of meat
such as turkey breast, shoulder cuts and roasts, chilies, and chicken dishes — all turn out incredibly moist. And the best part is the
food is kept warm until you’re ready to eat.

Post City Magazines’ culinary columnist, Rose Reisman, is author of 17 cookbooks, a TV and radio personality and a health and wellness expert. Visit Rose at www.rosereisman.com.

When the walls come down

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HANNAH MOSCOVITCH

PRODIGAL PLAYWRIGHT

Q: Are you a café writer, a reclusive writer or something in between?

I have terrible writing habits. I write in bed. Sometimes I don’t get dressed, talk to anyone or leave the house for days. I used to write in cafés, but I’ve stopped because I would drink coffee after coffee and forget to eat.

Q: What was the first serious thing you remember writing, and was it any good?

I was a very serious little girl. I wrote melodramas and romances that had lots of adjectives in them. They weren’t good, but they were inadvertently funny.

Q:What’s something we don’t know about you but probably should?

I’m never sober at my premieres.

DIANA DONNELLY

THE HEROINE

Q: You have a Jeopardy question based on you (“Diana Donnelly found salvation—the Salvation Army that is—in the title role in this Shaw play in 2005.”) How regularly do you flaunt that fact to your castmates? 

It’s pretty much all I talk about. And they love it.

Q: If you could be in any TV show…

Wow. OK, so aliens have landed and decreed that I must be cast in Mad Men. I play Norah Delaney, a small-town journalist who wears modest but fabulous dresses. I don’t find Don Draper attractive, and it makes him feel like he’s losing his mind. (But eventually we smooch. Obviously.)

PAUL DUNN

THE LOVER

Q: The wildest thing to happen during a performance is…
I was the Player Queen in Hamlet. I tripped on the gown’s train and fell on my butt, centre stage. I got up and composed myself, but my wig and crown were askew for the rest of the scene.
Q: Do you ever get recognized by theatre buffs in the street?
A young woman stopped me one day and listed three things I’d done this year. I can’t tell you how much that made my day!


 

BRENDAN GALL

THE HERO

Q: Tell us about the worst audition you’ve ever had.I was once asked to try playing Malvolio from Twelfth Night like a German praying mantis in geisha-girl makeup.
Q:What’s the challenge to playing Rudi?
Playing the son of an SS doctor while making direct eye contact with the audience and then trying to break the resulting tension with “humour.”

RICHARD ROSE
 

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR

Q: What’s the appeal of East of Berlin?
We hear about terrible Nazis, but never the children of Nazis. Or, we hear about terrible trauma, but never the children of trauma. This does that.
Q: What’s your favourite line from any play, ever?
“The love is in the cooking and the washing,” from Howard Barker’s The Castle.
Q: Who has a better way with words: William Shakespeare or Conrad Black?
Well, Shakespeare’s gone down in time. Black’s just serving time.