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Meet Jennifer Huether, Canada’s first female master sommelier

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There are currently around 180 master sommeliers in the entire world, just three of which are from Canada. Toronto’s Jennifer Huether is the latest addition. She earned the distinction earlier this month, becoming the first female in the country – and one of the very few in the world – to do so.

Previously a sommelier at establishments like North 44 and Ruth’s Chris Steak House, she’s now the head sommelier at Maple Leaf Sports and Entertainment (including e11even restaurant). It took her six years to get the accolade, and we caught up with her to talk about the journey.

How did you decide that you wanted to dedicate a good portion of your life to wine?
It was back in the late 90s. I have a good friend and chef, Av Atikian [of Jam Café], who has a passion for wine. We were chatting one day and I said I didn’t like white wine, so he made a bunch of little dishes and he paired them perfectly with wine. And I was just floored. I couldn’t believe it. So I started doing little courses at George Brown, just out of interest, and I realized this is actually an avenue you can take. It’s endless, the amount you can learn about wine.

What was your family’s reaction when you told them your chosen path?
Back when I was becoming interested in pursuing this, they didn’t really know what it was. They didn’t know you could actually make a living out of it. There were a lot of jokes, like, ‘Oh, you’re going to become a professional drinker.’ So it took them a while to understand what it’s all about.

As a female sommelier, what kind of barriers did you encounter?
I think the barriers have mostly come from the Old World. In France and Italy, for example, when I meet with winemakers, they’re like, ‘Ok sweetheart, this is a cabernet sauvignon.’ They just instantly assume that you have no knowledge. Over there, being a sommelier is a chosen profession and it’s really for men. It was interesting doing it in Canada because people were very open to the idea of female sommeliers, and now I think it’s at the point where it’s completely accepted. I don’t think that’s the case in Europe.

Do you think women have qualities that give them any advantages in this kind of industry?
I think women are naturally a little better at multitasking. Some have said that women have better palates, but I haven’t found that to be true. I do think we’re naturally a bit more diplomatic, which is an important aspect in our field. Even if you have an incredible knowledge and an incredible palate, it just doesn’t go over well if you’re forcing it on people. You have to do a very delicate dance of not insulting people’s intelligence but also helping to guide them.

What did you find the most challenging about getting your certification?
Oh man. Well, first of all, it’s an incredibly tough thing to get. There’s a service element to the exam, where you’re literally on stage having to perform all the tasks under pressure, being hammered with questions, and having to do everything technically and perfectly. Even though I do it every night on the floor, and I love it, when you’re put under that kind of microscope, it took me awhile to master being comfortable in that kind of scenario. So learning to keep my cool and not let the stress get the better of me was probably the hardest part.

Michael Kors and a "major" brand to grace Bloor Street

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Canada’s fashion world got all a-Twitter this week when it was announced that a new Michael Kors flagship store will open on Bloor Street sometime soon. We heard the news from Flare Magazine‘s Editor-in-Chief, Lisa Tant, who made a Twitter announcement (twinnouncement?) while at London Fashion Week.

Besides Michael Kors, it’s also been confirmed that Intermix will have its first Canadian location soon, and Tant also tweeted that a “major” European brand will also be joining them on Bloor—however, she couldn’t say who it will be just yet, so stay tuned.

T.O. Sales roundup: Bermuda, L'Agence, Nine West

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Everyone loves a good sale, but usually it’s the search of one that inevitably turns people away from finding that fantastic fashion find. What if you didn’t have to go hunting for that perfect sale and instead have the sale find you? Well, look no further, because every Friday we bring the most sensational steals of the week directly to your door—er, computer screen. We’ve got you covered from head to toe.

Kensie

These distressed Bermuda jeans on sale for $10 (regularly priced $72), are a great way to start up your spring wardrobe.

Capnap, 372 Eglinton West; Body Blue, 199 Danforth Avenue

Jonathan and Olivia

Here are some fabulous t-shirts on sale to go with your new jeans. Try their L’Agence U Neck Modal T in Ink for $99, down from $170.

49 Ossington Avenue

Preloved

This flirty Amber dress (on sale for $94.50) is the perfect way to put a spring in your step.

881 Queen Street West; 230 Danforth Avenue

Town Shoes

What’s an outfit without shoes? And Town Shoes has some terrific deals right now with 40-70% off the regular price. Animal prints and wedges are big this spring so hit two birds with one stone with these Nine West wedges for $85.

Various locations; check website for the closest store near you

Pure + Simple

A long day of shopping (or web-browsing) is a great excuse to relax. So treat yourself to a Pure & Simple facial on sale for $69.

725 King Street West; 2375 Yonge Street

Cacao and coffee join forces at Toronto café

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It’s not uncommon to find espressos served with chocolate at many of Toronto’s craft coffee bars, but how about pure cacao beans? Starting Monday, espressos at Sense Appeal Coffee Roasters will be served with roasted cacao beans that have been flavour-paired with the coffee blend. “I used to be a sommelier,” says co-owner Peter Adamo. “I’ve never seen a pairing as dramatic as what I’ve seen with cacao and coffee.”

Sense Appeal’s experiments in pairing the two are still underway, but Adamo claims that cacao does something to the palate that allows coffee to be tasted completely differently. He recommends the following ritual: stir the espresso and take a sip. Take a second sip to get used to it; then take a bite of the cacao. “That’s when everything completely changes,” Adamo says. By the third and final sip, the symbiotic relationship between coffee and cacao will, apparently, enhance the overall flavour profile.

Sense Appeal’s cacao beans are single origin Criollo – known as one of the best cacao varieties in the world – either from Mexico or the Dominican Republic. A single bean will be served with the espresso at no extra cost. The idea is for a pure, profound experience. “You’re tasting cacao in its purest form,” Adamo says. “And espresso drinkers are purists.”

Dancap’s return of South Pacific worth celebrating

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To see magnificent, culture-changing live theatre is always a joy. To see a superbly performed, exquisitely sung, and perfectly directed production such as the multiple Tony Award-winning Rodgers and Hammerstein classic South Pacific, back by popular demand at the Toronto Centre for the Arts until April 10, is something for the ages.

Readers of my Post City theatre columns over the past decade know that this writer is a student of musicals, who sees them as, next to jazz, the great American art form of the past century. And, it cannot be denied, this writer is also one who loves Stephen Sondheim’s work far more than any other artist in the medium, far more than nearly all the work created by Richard Rodgers and Oscar Hammerstein (the latter being the mentor and one-time next-door neighbour of Sondheim). But when one experiences the nearly three hours of South Pacific, one witnesses Rodgers and Hammerstein at their best; this important musical is what King Lear was to Shakespeare, what Cherry Orchard was to Chekhov, what Endgame was to Beckett.

Not every production of South Pacific is worth seeing, of course: a musical that confronts such profound topics as life in wartime, finding love, cultural clashes and the mind-corrupting evils of racism demands high-quality acting, near-operatic singing, evocative sets, rapid pacing (the first act lasts nearly an hour and 45 minutes) and thoughtful, creative directing. This universally-praised version is so filled with now-classic songs (“Some Enchanted Evening,” “There is Nothin’ like a Dame,” “Bali Ha’i” and the hauntingly lovely “Younger Than Springtime,”) that it will touch everyone from pre-teens to the adults who grew up singing these tunes from the hit album of the early 1950s. And Bartlett Sher’s award-winning direction is a model for what can be done with a risky, still-daring script.

What stunned this critic was how much better the show is now than it was during its first visit to Toronto at the Four Seasons Centre last summer. The major male character, Frenchman Emile de Becque, is now being played by the fabulous baritone David Pittsinger (until March 6, pictured at left), who often surpasses the wonderful Jason Howard of Toronto, who will return to that key role until the end of the run. Carmen Cusack is still extraordinary, back as the love-hungry, Southern-cracker nurse, Nellie Forbush. Jodi Kimura also returns as the devious, money-hungry, daughter-pimping Bloody Mary, and is somehow even more on her game in 2011. And what a shock to discover the stunning improvements in the casting of Capt. George Brackett (Gerry Becker), Luther Billis (Timothy Gulan), and Lt. Joseph Cable (with Aaron Ramey now singing the moving and “Younger Than Springtime” better than I’ve ever heard it before). The floor of the wonderful theatre was wet from my tears.

A few final thoughts, and I have hundreds more – from the magical way each beautiful, lush song flows effortlessly from Joshua Logan and Oscar Hammerstein’s remarkably complex script, to how the seemingly wishy-washy liberal words of “You’ve Got to be Carefully Taught” remain surprisingly timely and profound (“You’ve got to be taught/to be afraid/of people whose eyes/are oddly made/and people whose skin is/a different shade/you’ve got to be carefully taught”) – the Toronto Centre for the Arts may seem like it is far from the entertainment district, but it is merely a half-dozen kilometres due north, and the TCA is probably the most comfortable theatre in the city.

Most important, there were a depressing number of empty seats the evening I experienced South Pacific again; far too many, considering what a truly essential, profoundly meaningful and joyously entertaining production this is.

Rush seats—at half the cost of previously-booked ones—will probably be available for nearly every performance. This is a production of such amazingly high quality that you’ll want to take your spouse, your teenagers, your best friend, anyone you love. I hope I’ve “carefully taught” you about what pleasures await you near Sheppard and Yonge until the 10th of April!

Allan Gould is Post City’s theatre critic

Lee, table for two?

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Top chef Susur Lee and designer Brenda Bent met — surprise, surprise! — at a restaurant. Bent was waiting tables and Lee was helming the kitchen. The talented twosome recently opened Lee Lounge, next to Susur’s famed restaurant Lee. Bent tells us how the couple continues to collaborate, while keeping their romance alive:

How they met

Susur and I met at the Peter Pan restaurant on Queen Street West in 1985. I was studying at Ryerson Polytechnic in the fashion design program and waitressing to pay for rent and tuition. Susur was the chef.

The first date

We went skating at Harbourfront. I’m not sure why Susur chose that location — maybe he thought it was an authentic Canadian thing to do!

What happened?

Susur used the excuse that he needed to “hold my hand” so that I wouldn’t (or we BOTH would!) fall
down on the ice. We did manage to stay upright, and the rest is history!

The courtship

We had so many memorable moments that I could write a short novel. We always had a great time, and    we    were    f rom    such    different worlds. My background was art and fashion, the pop music scene in Toronto, hanging out, partying. Susur was committed to hard work and long hours, learning his trade, juggling two jobs. We had a lot to teach each other.

The proposal

Oh God. Which one? It happened so many times! And then Susur would get cold feet. Finally, I stopped believing him. It was a bit ridiculous because I didn’t doubt his commitment to me, but he was obviously conflicted about the formalizing process. I finally said, “Call me from City Hall, and I’ll try and come down.”

Wedding plans

I suppose that “impromptu” would be the best description. We’re clearly not wedded to tradition. We organized a very small party at Susur’s restaurant, Lotus, for close friends, during the day. That same night, we had dinner for 16 at Le Fenice on King Street West. Now Susur jokes about retaking our vows and throwing a huge wedding party. At least, I think he’s joking.

Family life

Levi is 21; Kai is 19; Jet is 13. They are very close, and the older two are very protective of their younger brother. Levi and Kai have decided that they want to follow their father into the restaurant industry, although at the business and managerial end rather than in the kitchen. So they are working with their father now, and I don’t know if I have ever seen Susur happier.

Their lives today

Our lives are very busy, and we’re making daily decisions on a variety of projects. Susur travels a lot. I can hardly keep track of what time zone he’s inhabiting, except when the phone rings at 3 a.m. and I figure he’s in Singapore. I would say we are in the crazy phase, expanding    Susur’s    restaurant holdings, building a solid base for the kids to take over the “family business,” should they so desire.

Shared goals

Our lives are really intertwined professionally and personally, and I would describe us as equal partners in seeking opportunities to expand the business. But the most important goal for us is ensuring that our children make their way in the world and determine their own career goals, either within the family business or outside it. Our job as parents is to help our kids to make the most of their talents, challenge them to handle responsibility and make thoughtful, informed decisions.

The secret to their success

We have the utmost respect for each other, which doesn’t mean that we agree on all issues, just that we listen without prejudice when we disagree. Compromise is a two- way street. Our business collaborations are often intense, but each of us has a specific expertise, and happily those talents are complementary: our “whole” is greater than the sum of our parts.
Marriage is a tightrope walk. It’s all about keeping your balance, shifting your weight and forgiving your partner when the act collapses.

Five fab looks taking over T.O.

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THE ULTIMATE ‘MAN SHIRT’

EDIT TUNIC (L) $88 LADY DUTCH SHIRT (R) $60

“I think the man-style shirt is an absolute must-have,” says Beker. “It’s very practical, very fashionable, and it’s one of those trends that’s here to stay. We’ve got a great little white shirt here from Lady Dutch. Very reminiscent of what Victor and Rolf were sending down the runway. We’ve also got a man-style shirt tunic in the Edit line. It has pleating in the front, with nice styling in the back.”

Where to get it: Edit shirt available at the Bay, Yorkdale Shopping Centre; Lady Dutch shirt available at StyleExchange, Promenade mall

ORANGE COUNTY

THOMAS SABO BLOOD ORANGE EARRINGS $379
THOMAS SABO BLOOD ORANGE RING $239

“Blood orange had a huge impact on just about every designer’s runway for spring,” says Beker. “But accessories were also given a nod in this great shade. We decided to show you these great Thomas Sabo agate earrings and cocktail ring.”

Where to get them: Jasmine’s Fine Jewellery, 1235 Bay St.

ANIMAL IMPULSE

BRAVE LEATHER BELT $125

“Animal prints are coming on strong,” says Beker. “They add a punch of sexiness to our wardrobes — everybody loves a hit of leopard print. So we decided to focus on animal-print belts.” After trying a few on, Beker adds, “These are a lot of fun!”

Where to get it: Mendocino, Bayview Village mall

CANDYSTRIPER

CASHMERE WRAP $230

“We see all kinds of stripes coming at us these days,” says Beker. “It’s a trend that’s here to stay. This is a wonderful little wraparound cardigan, with a nice soft fabric.”

Where to get it: Andrews, Bayview Village mall

GO LONG

ELIZABETH AND JAMES SKIRT $410

“The long flowing skirt made a huge statement on the international runways for spring,” says Beker. “These skirts are very romantic and perfect for the upcoming season.”

Where to get it: Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W.

 

Jeanne Beker is the host and segment producer of Canada’s leading fashion series FashionTelevision. Catch her Sunday nights at 5:30 p.m. ET on CTV or visit www.FashionTelevision.com

Break-in All the Rules: Confessions of a Rosedale Burglar

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Reading a home is something of an art form. Keith Matthews (not his real name) gestures at a large brick home on a snowy neighbourhood street with the blinds pulled partially back. “You can tell no one’s in there,” he says. “You see the living room on the right-hand side, the kitchen area on this side. They do have the laundry going, so they’re going to be back soon. You can see the exhaust on the side. That’s their laundry.” He points to the side door, which is obscured from view by a row of cedar trees, as his likely point of entry.

When Matthews turns 40 this year, he will have spent exactly half of his life behind bars. Among his crimes are over 300 break and enters in the GTA, in many of the city’s wealthiest and most fortified areas, Rosedale, Forest Hill, Lawrence Park and Bayview among them, where both risk and reward are highest.

Matthews grew up in an apartment building in Scarborough, his mother a corporate vice-president and his father a maintenance worker. He did his first line of cocaine at age 11, supplied by an adult neighbour a few floors down. By his mid- 20s, he was ingesting over $5,000 worth of cocaine a day and burglarizing houses across Toronto to support his addiction. He says he has stolen well over a million dollars in cash and other goods over the course of his career.

Matthews is out on parole now and is working on reconnecting with his daughters. He’s a new grandfather and hopes that by opening up about his past he can help right his wrongs.

“I don’t like bragging about what I did, but to notify the community, you know, if I can help in any way, shape or form to help a homeowner not be vandalized or victimized any more, right? These are the certain steps you need to take,” he says.

But it’s a tough time to be out of the game. As the price of gold continues to skyrocket, the business of break and enters is becoming an increasingly lucrative enterprise.

“Today, you’re probably paying 10 bucks a gram for 10 karat [gold]. Back in the ’80s and ’90s, you’re lucky if you’re paying two bucks, three bucks a gram for 10 karat,” Matthews says. “As we speak right now, there’s multiple houses being broken into, all over the GTA. Drugs are becoming a lot bigger problem in Toronto, so you got crackheads and people who are just fiending for their next hit. And they’ll do anything.”

Gold was always easiest to fence, he says, because once it’s melted it’s untraceable. “You go to certain places downtown, pawn shops and that. They don’t care about ID. They’ve got a $30,000 Royal Doulton doll for a hundred bucks. What do they care?” he says.

Some burglars will stake out a house for days, studying the owner’s patterns. Matthews preferred to find out quickly and definitively whether someone was home. “What you do is knock on the door and ask for ‘Fred.’ Make up any name. Bang, bang, bang. Make sure. If someone comes to the door, say, ‘Oh, I was looking for Fred.’ You give them some story. That way you find out if they’re home or not. Then go around to the side,” he says.

Matthews is walking south along Banbury Road in Bayview. He stands about five feet eight inches and is wearing dark wraparound sunglasses and a toque that covers his ears, so only his mouth and nose are exposed. He gets a long look from a resident walking her dog. “See, you’ve got people watching you — ‘What the hell are they doing?’ — right?” he says.

The lunch hour was Matthews’s favourite time to strike. “Moms in these richy areas, they got the nannies who are picking the kids up at school,” he says. “So you got a 15-minute window to get in and out. Especially Forest Hill, the Annex, Rosedale, Davisville, all those areas, they have a lot of hired nannies…. They think, ‘I’m just going to go pick up the kids and not lock every window in the house because I’m going to be back in 15 minutes,’ right? And they don’t think about it because they do the same routine every single day: until they get hit. That’s when they start changing their ways.”

Matthews says he could break into nearly any home in a matter of minutes. Once inside, the first order of business was to find an exit and make sure it was unlocked. Then he would go to the master bedroom and look under the mattress and for good reason: he once found $17,000 in luggage under the bed. Next he would go to the dresser, then the other rooms, before heading back downstairs where he would look for anything in glass cabinets, especially crystal or figurines. Then he’d be out, all in less than two minutes, three minutes tops.

"They do the same routine every single day: until they get hit. That’s when they start changing their ways.”

Commonly a burglar is after something in particular.

“A lot of the time, you come in contact with the person who robbed you, or they’ve been watching your place. Sometimes what people do is they go to those art galleries, and they will watch people, and they will see people buy [something] and then tail them home and stake them out,” he says.

Sometimes Matthews would wear a hard hat and pretend he was in the neighbourhood reading meters. Meanwhile, he’d be surveying the street, looking for the perfect target. Other times, the disguise was legitimate. He used to run a construction company that did a slew of jobs in Forest Hill and Rosedale. Once, he was installing weeping tile for a downspout when he noticed a wall-sized safe in the basement. He stuck a chewing gum–sized piece of C4 on it and tried to blow it up but to no avail. “What we did was make a mess of the basement,” Matthews says. “We put the rug on fire, and I had to put that out. Then we left.”

To get into that basement, Matthews simply removed the windowpane, which is how he would usually get around most windows rigged with alarm contacts. “Make sure the window is inside the frame itself and that it’s not one of those ones where you just put a [windowpane] in and a piece of trim on the outside,” he says. “It’s four finishing nails. Take that off and the whole window pops out.”

For bigger windows and sliding doors, he recommends decorative bars — “when a guy like me sees those windows, you back away because it’s too much bull and garbage” — and tempered glass: “that’s the glass I’d get because you can’t break that.” A skilled burglar can use a pin or a credit card to open up most cheap locks, so a little extra expense can go a long way.

“If you don’t have good locks, you might as well leave your door wide open because that’s what you’re doing,” Matthews says. “Deadbolts are the way to go. If you’re going to lock your home, side door, front door, make sure you put deadbolts. That way you need a key for the inside and the outside. It might be a pain to have to unlock your door like that, but at least you have a secondary lock below it.”

Surprisingly often, though, homeowners leave their doors and windows unlocked. Especially condo owners, Matthews says, who assume they’re so high up that they don’t think it’s necessary. Matthews once climbed up to a 15th floor balcony to rob a jeweller he had followed home from his store, then walked in the unlocked balcony door and helped himself.

When touring a neighbourhood, Matthews says a burglar is looking for a house that offers sufficient cover. Avoid planting thick bushes close to the house, and install sensor lights high enough that a burglar can’t easily unscrew the bulbs.

One of his first hits was on Dawlish Avenue in Lawrence Park, which fronts onto Blythwood Ravine. “All these places that back onto a park or ravine or a school, these are the best targets because you got no one on [one] side to worry about,” Matthews says.

The signs of easy entry are everywhere: one just has to learn what to look for. Faded alarm stickers, he says, indicate there’s really no alarm system at all, so be sure to keep them f resh. Old storm doors will break under the force of a strong shoulder, so make sure your doors are solid hardwood. Sliding doors are especially easy to break into, so install a metal riser along the bottom (“it’s like a metal bracket with a hook in it”).

Motion detectors need to be carefully positioned to be effective, and most aren’t. “I can tell you about motion detectors. They are garbage, absolute garbage. I can beat every one that’s out there,” Matthews says. Most of them don’t scan the foot and a half closest to the floor, so he would crawl on his stomach and pass by undetected. If he saw the monitor go red, he would lie still until it turned back to green. So make sure your detectors are aimed at the floor and position one at the foot of the stairs, which will keep the burglar to just one floor, he says.

But for all the technology we use to keep us safe, sometimes the best deterrent is a watchful community.

“Be aware of your neighbourhood. Who’s coming and who’s going, what’s normal traffic,” Matthews says. “You have to keep an eye out. Even if you don’t like your neighbours, just put yourself in their shoes if the place got broken into. You know what I mean?”

When conventional means of entry aren’t available, a motivated burglar will get creative. One time, Matthews entered a house through the skylight. As he was lowering himself down, a piece of glass caught him on the forehead, and blood spilled everywhere. “By that time the alarm is going off. I had no time to clean up, I had to take off,” he says.

The police then had his DNA and used it to link him to an additional series of break and enters. Today, the guilt of his actions still weighs on him.

“When you’re walking through somebody’s home, you’re looking at pictures and stuff like that, and you’re thinking, ‘Why am I doing this?’ Your home is your place. That’s your safe place. It shouldn’t be a place where you have to worry.’ I feel bad. I regret doing what I did,” he says. Jail was tough. He saw stabbings. He saw a guy get beaten with a lead pipe. He saw a guy get killed right in front of him. But he kept his head down and tried to stay out of what he calls “the nonsense.” He worked as an electrician, fixing toggle switches and receptacles, and he got his Grade 12 diploma. He even gave musical instruction to the other inmates, teaching guitar tabulature and keyboards. Now that he’s out, he’s trying to set a good example for the granddaughter whose pictures he proudly displays on his cellphone. I ask him if he’s ever tempted to return to his former ways.

“Nah, not no more. I’m done with that lifestyle. I have lived on the good side. I have lived on the bad side. And yes, it gets tough at times, financially and mentally and emotionally and physically, but to have to look over your shoulder all the time … it just stresses you out,” he says. “I’ll be 40 years this year, and it’s just been nothing but a constant headache for my family as well as myself. I know what I’m worth and what I’m capable of doing…. Time for a career change.”


In our March cover story, Break-In All the Rules, Post City Magazines acknowledges the writer and the burglar did visit specific streets in each of the seven neighbourhoods. The burglar in question did commit several robberies in all of these areas. While correct in our North York, Midtown and Bayview editions, Post City Magazines made the mistake of presenting this same street in the North Toronto, Village, Thornhill & Richmond Hill print editions. The writer was not responsible for the error, which was made during production and which we regret.

However, lessons learned from the investigation are valid lessons right across the city regardless of where one lives. The story is no less important and timely for our readers and homeowners across Toronto.

Toronto's Best Shepherd's Pie

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GRAND PRIZE WINNER
THE POUR HOUSE, 182 DUPONT ST.

Chatto’s standard for a good pie is his mom’s. His grade school cafeteria also served the dish and sits at the opposite end of the taste spectrum. The Pour House’s pie (called the “cottage pie” on its menu) is the last one he tries. After admitting that none of the pies he’s tasted have “really wowed” him yet, he’s holding out hope for this one remaining dish. “The potato looks much richer,” he says. “This seems as though it’s actually been baked in an oven, rather than assembled.” Chatto is pleased to see carrots, peas and corn mixed in with the meat. And these veggies are cooked to Chatto’s liking: not overdone and adding “textural interest.” As for the meat? “It’s nice, moist, with some tanginess to it. Yeah, I think that's quite well done.” It’s not a “wow,” but we’ll take it.

Price: $12.99

WATCH VIDEO: James Chatto Pick T.O.'s Best Shepherd's Pie

FIRST RUNNER-UP

Butler’s Pantry — 591 Markham St.

“Here’s another shepherd’s pie with a lovely crusty top,” says Chatto. “There’s a good inch and a half of potato there. And the meat's been mixed with plenty of other vegetables.” Although he likes the “peppery seasoning,” Chatto says this dish is a touch “too dry.”

Price: $9.75

GROOVY GRAVY

Britannia Pub & Grill — 7359 Yonge St., Thornhill

“This almost looks more like a moussaka,” says Chatto, who enjoys the “flavourful meat” in Britannia’s shepherd’s pie. The uber-whipped potatoes, however, are “too close to liquid” for Chatto’s liking. Still, he likes the overall seasoning of the pie.

Price: $10.50

SMOOTHEST SPUDS

Daiter’s Fresh Market — 3535 Bathurst St.

“That’s a handsome-looking shepeherd's pie,” says Chatto. “It’s finished under the grill to get a little crust on it, which is nice.” Unfortunately, Daiter’s dish doesn’t have “any oomph” to it — although Chatto does like the sweet kernels of corn sprinkled on top.

Price: $9.99

MEAT AND GREET

McEwan — 38 Karl Fraser Rd.

“There’s almost too much potato here,” says Chatto. “And they’re not using ground meat, which is really unusual. There are great big chunks of meat. The meat itself is quite tender — but here’s a lump of fat.”

Price: $13.95

  
 

WATCH VIDEO: James Chatto Picks T.O.'s Best Shepherd's Pie

Green day

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I’m riding on the back of a horse-drawn carriage with my wife, watching as a pregnant woman holds her baby and a family takes snapshots of the intersection of Sumach and Carlton, ground zero of Cabbagetown, a neighbourhood very much in the throes of change.

It’s the area’s Winter Festival, and I’m scouring the laneways and gourmet coffee shops in search of some Irish authenticity, biding my time before I can start drinking dark beer. We head north in the freezing cold carriage up to Sackville Street, everyone admiring the neighbourhood’s famously cupcake-looking Victorian houses. Cabbagetown is Toronto’s original Irish stomping grounds, earning its nickname when the hard-done-by immigrants had to grow their own food on their front lawns. But today, the woman holding her baby wears Fendi sunglasses, and Carlton Street is the setting of gourmet restaurants like Omi and Daniel et Daniel, dishing out fancy fare. Can you even get cabbage at a place that’s name is written in French?

“This could definitely lead to something,” says the carriage driver when we disembark at Riverdale Park, and she passes out her company’s flyers to the families now rosy cheeked from the cold.

At the festival, both the hot dogs and the Starbucks coffee are free, and the area does seem delightful, if a little Pleasantville for my tastes. There’s a snow obstacle course for the children, and the parents compete to see who can get the most distance on a winter boot tossed in the air. I need to find someone Irish — and fast.

Parliament Street is the neighbourhood’s main throughway and features all of the area’s most popular destinations, places such as Ben Wicks, House on Parliament and Jet Fuel, one of the city’s most famous coffee shops. I head into Jet Fuel and order an Irish coffee, just for laughs.

“You need to ask the boss for that,” says the man behind the counter, who wears a big puffy sweatshirt and tight skinny jeans.

“I’m just playing,” I tell him. “I know you’re not licensed, but I am looking for Irish people in Cabbagetown. Do you have any in here?”

“I’m sorry, man,” says the kid. “You need to ask the boss.”

I order a $3 hot lemonade and pull out my book, Cabbagetown by Hugh Garner, a tale of the Depression era that must rank as one of the best Toronto-set books. I feel comfortable in this neighbourhood. My wife and I used to live on Spruce Street, opposite the nofrills, and it was our first place in Toronto outside of her parents’ home. Cabbagetown literally saved my life.

I’m just not finding the soul of the place, though, let alone a proud Irishman to join me for a beer. Is Cabbagetown still a good place to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day? And where is the soul?

To find out, I head north up Parliament Street and duck into the St. James’ Cemetery and Crematorium, which first opened in 1844 and is the oldest cemetery in Toronto: tree lined, expansive and, as you move further away from Parliament, surprisingly serene and quiet.

"I know you’re not licensed, but I am looking for Irish people in Cabbagetown. Do you have any?"

“He was born at Armack in the kingdom of Ireland and died at Upper Canada College, October, 1849,” reads the grave site of Samuel Alderidge, a former porter at UCC.

There’s a dignity to the cemetery, a respect for the past. “Erected to the memory of Hannah Stanley, who departed this life June 21, 1880, aged 67 years and six days,” reads a tombstone with an angel on top of its grey monument.

I’m just about to get all misty eyed when my telephone rings.

“Hope you don’t mind cigar smoke,” barks George H. Rust-D’Eye, author of Cabbagetown Remembers and an Irish lawyer who has lived in the neighbourhood for 38 years. Rust-D’Eye, who’d been notified by the local BIA that I was looking for him, asks if I’d like to escape the area’s ghosts and start to look at where it’s going to go next. When I meet the author at Carlton and Parliament, he has a black Nikon camera hanging around his neck. “We’re doing something a little bit nasty,” says Rust-D’Eye, who has a last name that wouldn’t be out of place in the next Pirates of the Caribbean film. Apparently, when Rust-D’Eye isn’t fighting cases, he’s photographing his neighbours houses, determining which housing renovations disrespect the original buildings.

 

“We’re taking photographs of what works and what doesn’t,” he says, “and that stupid-looking dormer doesn’t work.”

Rust-D’Eye, 67 and smoking, shows me all the Georgian and Victorian architecture of Cabbagetown and even points out the former home of a neo- Nazi that was firebombed in 1995.

“The sooner he was obliterated from the earth, the happier I’d be,” says Rust- D’Eye, and points out a former wayward girls’ home from the 1870s that’s now a parking lot for the Beer Store. “This whole neighbourhood was once a residential area, and I think it must be preserved. It’s simply a matter of taste.”

My spirits are bolstered after meeting the world’s coolest lawyer, and finally I decide it’s time for my beer. Stout Irish Bar opened last month, and when I walk in, there’s a fireplace keeping the restaurant warm. There are 20 beers on tap and most of the wait staff and the restaurant’s owners are Irish.

“Irish pubs in Canada have become a concept, but in Ireland, they’re comfortable second homes,” says Erin Gamelin, who owns the bar with her husband, Craig Abbot. For St. Patrick’s Day, Stout will hold a massive party that includes Irish music and dancing and hoisting a tent over their back patio. Don’t expect green beer or leprechauns, says Gamelin, but one thing you can expect is a return to Cabbagetown history. I order a shepherd’s pie, a Murphy’s Irish stout and exhale. Cabbagetown’s legacy is saved.

Ben Kaplan is a features writer for the National Post

Cool hand Gwyneth: starlette endorses local mittens

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While the Gwyneth Paltrow touch may not exactly hold the powers of the Oprah touch, getting a mention in GOOP — Paltrow’s lifestyle-advice newsletter focused on achieving La Belle Vie — ain’t bad. So when Toronto mitten designer Anna-Maria Mountfort was recently mentioned in it, she took it as rather good news.

For parents frustrated with a child’s inexplicable knack for losing mittens, Mountfort’s creation, mimiTENS (a wordplay on the French translation for mittens: mes mitaines), may be just the helping hand they need. To see what all the fuss is about, we went directly to the source: Mountfourt herself.

Why do you think kids are so prone to losing their mittens?
Willfully flinging off and losing are two different things. I like to think that the willfully flinging off is the real problem that mimiTENS manages. Toddlers who are experiencing their first few winters don’t understand the cause and effect situations caused by this particular season. For instance, don’t lick metal, your tongue will stick. Don’t fling your mittens off, your hands will get cold, and mommy can’t drink her coffee if you are freaking out. The kids are innocent, really. MimiTENS believes that the children are innocent…

How did you come up with the idea for mimiTENS?
I was changing my daughter’s diaper and needed a quick way to distract her and make her stop rolling around all over the place. So I took her socks off her feet and put them on her hands. She tried to shake them off and couldn’t. That moment stuck in my mind as I experienced my first winter with a little kid who flung her mittens off and then howled with discomfort from frozen hands. That is the honest truth!

What makes your mittens stay on little hands?
They have a long, sock-like tube that goes all the way up to the elbow. The tube has a double-welt, elastic-ish band at the top that further ensures it is snug but flexible. Another aspect of mimiTENS that contributes to their stay-on power are the fabrics that I use and the nice embroidered designs. Parents are always telling me that their kids like wearing mimiTENS.

mimiTENS were recently endorsed by GOOP.  Any word on whether your creation is keeping the hands of Apple and Moses (Gwyneth’s children) warm?
Admittedly, I have not heard anything lately. But I hope that when they do wear them, Gwyneth tells Apple and Moses that their mittens come from Toronto — a winter wonderland where you can buy mangosteens and pupusas all year round.

The Mitten by Jan Brett: a heart-warming tale about some forest animals that make a home out of wayward mittens, or an immoral story endorsing children to be careless with a pair of mittens made with care by Grandma?
Well, Jan Brett books are so clear in their messages. The Gingerbread Baby is about how running away from home is no way to trick your parents into getting what you want because they are busy in the kitchen and won’t notice that you are gone anyway. The Sweater is about how you can accidentally become a fashion-sensation but eventually, everyone will copy your originality/ideas and you will slunk off to listen to The Smiths, alone. So The Mitten must have a similarly intense message, but I don’t want to mislead readers without having read this important part of the children’s book canon. Suffice to say, that anything that Grandma knits is a treasure.

Joe Fresh to take on the Big Apple

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Canada’s “cheap and chic” clothing line, Joe Fresh, is now going international, starting with a test-drive in Manhattan (and then who knows? Maybe Berlin.) Loblaw President Allan Leighton confirmed Wednesday that Loblaw will test its in-house clothing brand in the competitive U.S. market by opening its first store in Manhattan this fall, the National Post reports.

Leighton made the announcement at a CIBC World Markets investor conference and webcast. He also mentioned that Loblaw executives are eyeing the U.S. with caution and will open four stores there later in 2011. “It will be very much a pilot project,” he said.

Joe Fresh was conceived for Loblaw by Joseph Mimran, also known as the mastermind behind Club Monaco. Mimran’s apparel has crossed the NYC threshold before: in 1995, he boldly rolled out a Club Monaco store on New York’s high-profile Fifth Avenue. It was later bought up by Polo Ralph Lauren in 1999.

Few Canadian apparel brands have managed to make it big in the U.S., so let’s hope that Joe Fresh can go the way of Lululemon (which now has 82 outlets there) and make some lemonade, too.

[National Post, Globe and Mail]