Tony Aspler’s Weekly Wine Pick: a light and fresh Riesling that’s a great match for Asian cuisine

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11:08 am

Süssreserve is grape juice that is added to wine after it has been fermented to add a touch of sweetness, a traditional practice in Germany. This wine is straw coloured with a greenish tint. The nose is honey and citrus fruits. It is off-dry, light, fresh and lively with honey and grapefruit flavours that sustain well on the palate.

Food match: Thai dishes; light curried dishes

$14.95, Vintages #258806

Tony Aspler is Post City’s wine columnist. He has written 14 books on wine and food and also created the Ontario Wine Awards. He can be heard on 680News.

Morning Throwback: old-timey phones were probably too frumpy to inspire lineups

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10:11 am

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As you line up for hours for the new iPhone 5 like it’s Boxing Day at Wal-Mart, just remember that using a phone was once a privilege for Torontonians. Then have a good laugh at their expense, because it totally sucked to be them.

Theatre Review: the Shaw Festival’s Hedda Gabler

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4:18 pm

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Let me flatly state my feelings about the Shaw Festival’s revival of Hedda Gabler: this one is for the ages. From Richard Eyre’s adaptation (more than merely a translation) to director Martha Henry’s grand direction to the blood-curdling artistry of Moya O’Connell’s astonishing title character to Jim Mezon’s inspired, evil Judge Brack, the production finally gives the magnificent playwright Henrik Ibsen his due.

If I were to teach a course on feminism, I could choose nothing better than this production of Hedda to illuminate my students.

Hedda is a general’s daughter, and though she would be expected to drop her maiden name and adopt the surname of her dull scholar-professor husband George Tesman (played well by Patrick McManus), everyone still calls her “Hedda Gabler.” It’s a sign that she is more her father’s daughter than she is anyone’s lover or wife — or even herself.

“I was born bored!” cries Hedda at one point, and the word “tedious” often leaves her lips — although the production is never tedious for the audience. True, Hedda is one of the least likable literary characters in history, but it is not by chance that the role is considered the “female Hamlet.” And the beautiful, spiteful, frustrated Hedda of Ms. O’Connell is awesomely good; it’s a performance I shall never forget.

This magnificent production is playing in the attractive (but claustrophobic) Courthouse Theatre, which denies the play one of its most striking images: in each scene, Hedda is quite literally pushed deeper and deeper into smaller and smaller spaces. It’s a brilliant symbol of her social and personal milieu. In the original text, we meet Hedda in a living room, then a den, then finally in a bedroom, truly squished into an increasingly inescapable situation (a much-dreaded pregnancy does not help, either).

Is the Shaw Festival’s Hedda Gabler an easy evening of theatre? Hardly. It is tough, sad, funny and heartbreaking, like the character of Hedda herself. But what it says about — and how it portrays — the situation of smart women trapped in a sexist society is more profound and insightful than a dozen feminist texts.

Hedda Gabbler, Shaw Festival, Courthouse Theatre, 26 Queen St., Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-2172. Now – Sept. 29.

First Draught: Cameron’s Rye Pale Ale

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3:10 pm

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Until four or five years ago, the only grain used to brew beer was barley. Alright, obviously that’s not true. Beer has been made with wheat for centuries (especially in places like Germany and Belgium) but it wasn’t until recently that wheat beers found a place in the North American spotlight. Now it’s rye’s turn to make a place for itself on the list of cereals that are used to make beer.

The Rye Pale Ale from Cameron’s Brewing Co. is an outstanding, local example of what can be done with rye as a grain. Given that rye grows so well in cooler climates, it’s appropriate that beers made with it drink so well during this time of the year, when the temperature sneaks into single digits.

In the context of pale ales, Cameron’s shifts the profile from that bitter, pink-grapefruit crispness to a complex, sweet-bitter match that warms from within, but doesn’t tire the palate out.

The RPA pours a dark-orange amber with a strong dose of haze and a frothy, white top that leaves lots of lace on the glass as it fades down. The aroma has strong fruity-floral notes from the hops, and the flavour brings subtle hints of spicy caraway and clove. The beer’s greatest strength is having just enough malty sweetness to harmonize with the lingering bitterness.

Rich, salty and sour foods (think barbecue in a vinegar-based sauce) would pair nicely with this RPA.

Cameron’s Rye Pale Ale, $16.50 for six 341 mL. Available at the brewery.

When David isn't busy drinking beer for his articles here, he writes about food and drink for Toronto's online publications including his own site, Food With Legs. For more of his thoughts on beer and life in general follow him on Twitter.

Weekend Warrior: Just for Laughs 42, Canada’s Walk of Fame, UFC 152, the Canadian Olympic Parade and Slash

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1:29 pm

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Louis and Friends Tickle Toronto

It’s time for Just For Laughs 42, an all-out comedy assault on the city of Toronto led by Louis CK. The star of FX hit Louie will be one of 42 comic acts to unleash war on the city’s funny bone during the eight-day festival, which begins tomorrow. Other comics that will take to the stage in Toronto include Patton Oswalt, Amy Schumer and Andy Kindler. Under the category of “Wait, they’re funny??”: David Suzuki and the odd-couple pairing of Elizabeth May and Raine Maida will also perform.

Oh Canada!

Canada’s got talent – at least according to the title of a popular CTV program. Some of that talent will be celebrated this weekend as part of the annual Canada's Walk of Fame Festival. The weekend’s festivities include a slew of free and ticketed performances involving such acts as Tom Cochrane (Sept. 21, Nathan Philips Square), Sarah McLachlan and K’Naan (Sept. 20, Massey Hall). Inductees being honoured this year include musicians McLachlan and Randy Bachman, ballerina Sonia Rodriguez, late funny man Phil Hartman, CFL star Russ Jackson and Team Canada from the 1972 Summit Series.

Rage in the Cage

The grapplers of the Ultimate Fighting Championship are back for another round in Toronto for what is UFC 152. Initially projected to be a fairly weak offering by the Ultimate Fighting folks, the Toronto card became marquee after injuries allowed for world lightweight champ Jon “Bones” Jones to take to the Octagon against Vitor Belfort in the night’s main event. Before Jones and Belfort square off, Demetrious Johnson and Joseph Benavidez will battle for the flyweight title and Michael Bisping and Brian Stann will clash in a middleweight bout.

Another Kind of Pride Parade

In addition to serving as host to the country’s best entertainers and the world’s top comic and grappling talents this weekend, Toronto will welcome many of the country’s best athletes for a celebration of their accomplishments at this summer’s Olympic Games in London. The marquee event of the celebration will be the Canadian Olympic Parade — featuring some of London’s famed double decker buses, no less — that will begin in Nathan Philips Square at 11:30 a.m. and finish in Maple Leaf Square. Afterwards there will be a private Hall of Fame Dinner and Induction Ceremony at the ACC. Festivities will include athlete meet-and-greets, on-stage interviews and a performance by Canadian pop group Neverest.

Slash is Back

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame guitarist Slash is back in T.O. this weekend. He, along with the equally awesomely-named Foxy Shazam, will light up the Sound Academy with some ear-splitting guitar riffs. Of course he’ll be sporting his signature black leather, shades and Mad Hatter hat over some stringy, long curls of hair.

Smoke BBQ House is bringing southern-style cooking to Harbord and Manning

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12:24 pm

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Smoke BBQ House is looking to bring some down-home, southern-style barbecue to Toronto when it opens at 536 Manning this October. Led by owner Francesco Grandi and executive chef Tony Gallippi, the new joint will also feature some creative twists.

“We’re excited to bring something different and new to the city,” says Grandi. ”We’re going to mix it up.”

He and Gallippi have been working with Mahmood Popal of Craft Studio for décor, using picnic-style communal tables and smoked Japanese wood to bring an upscale feel to a causal dining experience.

Gallippi, a certified master smoker who previously owned a restaurant in Windsor, will provide a diverse menu with everything from classic ribs and pulled pork to smoked cheese, vegetables and fish. He’ll be smoking everything on site in a Cookshack 350 for anywhere from 12 to 14 hours, using mostly apple and cherry woods (which accentuate the smoke flavor without overpowering, he says).

“The beauty with the smoker is you can smoke anything. You can smoke lemons if you want to,” Grandi says.

The team is excited to experiment with the smoker, with possibilities including smoked duck, swordfish and catfish. While the set menu will include dishes like smoked sliders and a smoked shrimp cocktail, it will have daily rotating specials. Homemade sides are to include mac ‘n’ cheese, cornbread, baked beans or spicy rapini.

And don’t forget about the sauces. There will be a variety of them, made in-house, including a root beer sauce and an orange pop sauce, as well as sauces hailing from more traditional southern recipes. The best part? The meat comes dry, so you get to dress it as you see fit. The sauces are brought to your table and you then choose your favourite.

Patrons will be able to pop in for a sandwich for about $10, but also settle in for a plate of ribs and a few beers for a bit more cash, though prices haven’t been set yet.

Here’s hoping that Smoke will add some flare to Toronto’s burgeoning barbecue scene.

Clarification: Sept. 24
“Master smoker” is a certification bestowed by Cookshack, a barbecue manufacturer based in Oklahoma. To earn the certificate, participants undertake a three-day course that teaches the fundamentals of barbecuing with smoke.

Grab of the Week: a sleek fedora from Tiger of Sweden

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10:36 am

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If we learned anything from the Marc Jacobs fall runway show, it’s that hats are the key accessory of the season. Even if an oversized, cartoon-like creation made from fun fur is not your cup of tea, to deny a statement headpiece from your wardrobe is a serious faux pas. Instead, try something a little more understated — sleeker, and more chic — like this version by Tiger of Sweden from Shoppalu.

Try it on at Shoppalu’s pop-up shop, which launches today and runs until Saturday at Miracle Thieves on Dundas West.

Winter wool hat by Tiger of Sweden, $89. Available at Shoppalu

Gracie Carroll is a Toronto-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in ELLE UK, ELLEcanada.com, Plaid magazine and FILLER magazine. Keep up with her daily blog at www.graciecarroll.com.

Morning Throwback: Torontonians had Gangnam Style before it even existed

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10:04 am

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Opulent clothing? Check. Token eccentric dude? Check. ‘Tude? Double check. Yep, these dudes have total Gangnam Style. We’re pretty sure they could ride that horse pretty well, too. Especially that guy on the left.

David Chang is apparently a playlist tyrant, for realsies

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4:03 pm

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The wait is over. The first Canadian outpost of chef David Chang’s Momofuku empire opened today and a mean bowl of ramen isn’t the only thing Torontonians should be anticipating. Beyond notable fare, the chef recently told Australian Gourmet Traveller that the music selection is another memorable feature of his international set of restaurants, and he should know — Chang creates the unique playlists for each of his restaurants himself.

Here are five things we learned about Chang’s delightfully specific musical preferences and unabashedly dictatorial control over the soundtracks at Momofuku (plus a few things we can infer about the music scene at the Toronto location).

Rule number one: no requests.

The seasoned chef-cum-iPod playlist curator plays only the music he would want to hear while dining — no exceptions. Chang tells Traveller that he operates in “a bizarre totalitarian restaurant-music situation,” proudly eschewing the musical preferences of his guests and staff in favour of his own, decidedly more obscure, track list.

There are only 4,000 Chang-approved tunes appropriate for restaurant play.

Seem like a small list? It is, but Chang promises, “it works.” His resto-playlists are each around 150 songs long, which is enough play time to guarantee that diners will never hear the same song twice during their meal. Staff may have to contend with repeats though: each restaurant currently has 16 playlists, and that’s it. (They take Chang a laborious two weeks to compile and edit). What to do if staff grumble about song repetition? “Don’t listen to them,” Chang advises, “They just haven’t realized yet that there are only 4,000 acceptable songs.” Noted.

When it comes to his preferred bands, familiarity is out…

You won’t find classical, current top-40 or techno-emo music blaring at any Momofuku joint. Ditto for “most jazz,” as Chang argues the classics are “so recklessly overplayed that they endanger our enjoyment of jazz as an entire art form, kind of like the overfishing of bluefin tuna.” Also not on rotation: any Enya, Travis, Coldplay (“Naturally,” he says) or The Smiths (“Absolutely no Morrissey. Ever.”) What’s left? Lots, according to Chang.

…and obscurity is in.

“Just because a song or a band doesn’t register on the pop-culture Zeitgeist doesn’t mean it can’t be fantastic (and useful) ambient noise.” Think music in the vein of Bob Dylan’s Christian rock albums, funky covers of “California Dreamin’” and appropriately edited tracks from Pink Floyd. Chang didn’t reveal the specifics about what’s to be on the Toronto playlists, but told the magazine it’s a good bet that “Work Hard/Play Hard by Palace Music” will make an appearance.  

Momofuku has a patron saint, and he was a member of AC/DC.

Chang calls longtime AC/DC rocker Angus Young “the patron saint of Momofuku,” and has dedicated Sydney’s Seiobo restaurant as a kind of shrine to the star, complete with photos of Young and frequent song play. No word yet as to whether the Toronto location will likewise be given its own patron rock saint (but here’s hoping).

[Australian Gourmet Traveller]  

New company has the music in them

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2:01 pm

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Louise Pitre is just back from performing a two-month run of Mame at the Goodspeed Opera House in New Haven, Conn. — part of the cross-continental life of a Canadian musical theatre performer. With little work at home in the Toronto area, travel comes with the territory. But a new project dubbed Theatre 20 hopes to start the wheels in motion to foster a vibrant musical theatre tradition in the city.

The first production, Bloodless: The Trial of Burke and Hare, opens Oct. 9 at the Panasonic Theatre.

Theatre 20 is a new collective of the top musical theatre artists in the country, including Pitre and artistic director Adam Brazier along with Juan Chioran and Brent Carver, to name just a few.

“We’ve all just marvelled at the fact that in this city there are very small and independent musical productions or great big multi-million-dollar touring companies from the States but nothing in between,” Pitre explains.

“The vast array of musicals just don’t get done, you know. That’s what we want to do.”

According to Brazier, it comes down to “a lack of homegrown work being done by homegrown people.”

Not only does the company want to simply produce and perform top-notch musical theatre, part of Theatre 20’s mandate includes fostering Canadian talent from across Canada, including the students of musical theatre coming out of Sheridan College.

The company’s first production is a new musical written by Winnipeg playwright Joseph Aragon. Rounding out the three-work season are Raindogs — a Sheridan College co-production — as well as Stephen Sondheim’s Company.

“Our goal with the first season is to try, in the most efficient and exciting way, to show our mandate,” says Brazier.

What has helped the cause, he continues, is the assistance of Mirvish, a company that dominates the theatre scene in Toronto.

“They added us to their season as an add-on, and that is huge; a massive opportunity for us,” says Brazier.

“And, they didn’t help financially, but they were incredibly generous with rates [Mirvish owns and operates the Panasonic Theatre, home to Theatre 20’s first production]. And they’ve just been very helpful.”

Currently, Theatre 20 employs exactly one person and operates out of a donated office space in North York.

Pitre has been pegged to star in Company although contracts have yet to be signed. Beyond the already far-reaching mandate of Theatre 20, she says she has another secret goal for the company.

“I want people to stop saying, ‘My God, we have great talent right here in Canada,’ ” she says.

“They don’t say that in the States, they just assume.”

For more information on the 2012-13 Theatre 20 season, go to www.theatre20.com.

Getting to the bottom of the bag issue

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2:00 pm

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A national newspaper columnist wrote that “banning plastic bags will do exactly nothing to save the planet.” She went on to argue that they’re even environmentally friendly.

Outright bans may not be the best solution, but plastic bags pose a big problem that must be addressed.

Plastic bags are bad and for the most part unnecessary. Many of us older folks remember a time, only a few decades ago, when we didn’t have them. Sure, they’re convenient, but is that an excuse to damage the environment and the life it supports?

A University of British Columbia study found that 93 per cent of beached northern fulmars (migratory seabirds related to the albatross) had bellies full of plastic – a substantial increase from the last time they were tested, in 1980. Head researcher Stephanie Avery-Gomm told the Globe and Mail that one bird had 454 pieces of plastic in its stomach.

Canadians use between nine and 15 billion plastic bags a year, enough to circle the Earth more than 55 times, according to the Greener Footprints website. Few plastic bags are recycled. Most are used for a short time to carry groceries and then maybe reused as garbage bags or to wrap dog poop before ending up in a landfill or the ocean.

Because they’re lightweight, plastic bags are easily carried by wind and water. Besides accumulating in the ocean, they litter our streets and natural areas, often clogging drainage systems and contributing to flooding. They take at least 1,000 years to break down, and even then, they don’t biodegrade; rather, they fragment into smaller and smaller pieces, making them more likely to be eaten by marine and land animals.

Plastic is also a petroleum product, so continued and increasing use of it accelerates the depletion of valuable fossil fuels. According to Greener Footprints, 8.7 plastic shopping bags contain enough embodied petroleum energy to drive a car one kilometre.

Finding something to carry your groceries in is easy; inexpensive re-usable bags come in a variety of materials and sizes. Many are small and light and can be carried in a purse or day pack. I carry one in my back pocket and have refused dozens of plastic bags as a result. Some people worry about bacteria and other contaminants that may accumulate in the bags, but you just need to wash them regularly.

One of the bigger issues is what to put garbage in. Before the 1980s, no one used plastic bags for groceries or garbage, nor did we have composting or recycling programs, so we know that plastic garbage bags aren’t entirely necessary. The first step is to reduce the amount of garbage we produce.

Buying products with less packaging and reducing overall consumption of unnecessary goods is a start. Reusing, recycling and composting also help you cut down what you send to the landfill. For the unavoidable waste, and the dog poop, use bio-compostable bags.

Outright bans on plastic bags may not be the best solution, but education and incentives to get people to stop using them are necessary. If we have any hope of finding ways for seven billion people to live well on a planet with finite resources, we have to learn to use our resources efficiently. Plastic bags are neither efficient nor environmentally friendly.

David Suzuki is the host of the CBC’s The Nature of Things and author of more than 30 books on ecology.

Pomp & Pageantry opens in Yorkville, offering clothing with a cuppa tea

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1:25 pm

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“When women enter my shop,” says Shellie Willms, “I want them to feel like royalty!” Three-week-old Pomp & Pageantry in Yorkville is something Willms has been dreaming of for quite some time. Matching a clutch of well-sourced brands with attentive service, Willms hopes to return to the original meaning of ‘boutique’ — and she’ll offer you a cuppa tea while she’s at it.

After graduating from Western’s business program, Willms hacked it out in banking for a few years before returning to her original passion: retail.

Throwing herself headfirst into her project, she got the store up and running and designed a house line of blouses and cufflinks to boot. Accenting the room with a mix of pieces from her mom (“Her hoarding has come to great use!”) and other feminine touches, Willms’ intent was to create an inviting space that would make women feel as though they were in their own private dressing room.

With garments, shoes and accessories for sale, ladies can rest assured that they’ll come away with an entire look if need be.

“I want to see women experimenting with their personal style,” says Willms, listing off 27 labels she has to play with. One of the most popular picks has been the comfy denim line Yoga Jeans.

“Denim can make a woman feel the least confident about herself,” Willms says. The Montreal-made jeans — which tout their comfort factor and flattering qualities — have been flying off the shelves. Elsewhere, homegrown labels like John & Jenn mingle with L.A.’s casual-cool Wildfox Couture and England’s TNFC, which tends to play up pieces with embellishments.

Standout pieces include a fox fur vest from Aussie label Wish ($478), which we imagine throwing over a Myne black catsuit ($228) and finishing with a pair of brown House of Harlow moccasins ($228) and a handcrafted Sibilia necklace ($168).

Though she’s just getting started, Willms is already keen to incorporate a greater range of sizes in addition to offering custom work, aiming to help all women look their very best.

Pomp & Pageantry, 112 Scollard St., 416-922-2937