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Willowdale’s off-leash bark may have bite

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City council recently approved 29 new sites that meet the criteria for off-leash dog parks including two in Bayview. Included within the revised “People, Dogs and Parks Strategy” is a provision to allow the city to establish off-leash areas in neighbourhoods with no formal dog owners’ association. The city is examining a proposed off-leash area for Willowdale Park, located off Hollywood Avenue as well as Pineway Park.

In addition to Ledbury, the northeast section of Woburn Park, off Cranbrooke Drive, also offers an off-leash area to North York residents. North York resident and dog owner Steve Stober is a regular at Ledbury Park, one of two current area off-leash parks.

He described the park as “very busy,” adding that area dog owners could benefit from additional off-leash parks in currently unutilized areas. “In my mind, there’s a lot of parkland that really isn’t being used,” Stober said, pointing to the large green space near Ranee Avenue and William R. Allen Road. “That’s a perfect spot for a dog run as well.”

A recent application for an off-leash area at Ellerslie Park was denied based on community feedback from a public meeting.

Students could be forced to switch schools

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Sporting a pin saying “No Boundary Change”, Sandra Aversa made a tearful plea to the Yonge and Davisville accommodation review committee (ARC) not to change the boundaries of Maurice Cody Junior Public School that could result in students being forced to attend another school.

“She used to be so shy,” Aversa told the panel of parents and teachers at the ARC meeting, explaining, when she used to drop her daughter Alessia off at school, she would stand outside crying. Now, she said Alessia has the confidence to take part in show and tell — demonstrated by a picture — because of the support of the Maurice Cody community.

At the third public meeting, held at North Toronto Collegiate Institute Feb. 17, more than 150 concerned parents attended. The meeting heard at least 30 deputations, mostly from Maurice Cody parents, many of whom said they moved to the area and made financial sacrifices so that their children could attend the close-knit school. Parents listed decreased property values, the dangers in having their children cross busy intersections and being torn from friends and community as top concerns.

Fiona Mitra, a Maurice Cody parent, explained that no one goes home at 3:30 p.m. “Parents, caregivers and kids stay to talk, play and maintain and strengthen friendships and social connections." The ARC’s mandate is to make recommendations to the school board on how students’ needs are best served for Maurice Cody Junior Public School, Hodgson Senior Public School, Eglinton Junior Public School and Davisville Junior Public School. It is also a prerequisite for development if more than 50 per cent of a student body will be affected by changes. This ARC in particular is faced with solving the issue of overpopulation.

Rob McCready, an ARC member, said options to maintain balanced enrollment are a grade reconfiguration, for example, making Hodgson Senior Public School start at Grade 6 or shuffling around programs. “The problem is that there are not enough school spaces. Shuffling boundaries and programs and grades is not going to make the students fit in the spaces available. Something has to be built, somewhere,” Mitra told the panel.

It has not been the mandate of ARCs to recommend capital development despite the fact that the TDSB plans to redevelop one of the schools within the ARC. However, at the Feb. 3 TDSB meeting, school trustee Josh Matlow said a motion was put forward to see what capital improvements the ARCs could recommend. “Parents finally have an opportunity to ask for what they want for their kids,” Matlow said.

New $38.2 mill housing complex coming

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Social housing in York Region will get a much needed addition thanks to the recently approved funding of a new $38.2 million apartment complex in Richmond Hill.

“The problem has become a crisis,” said Vito Spatafora, local and regional councillor for Richmond Hill. “There certainly is a desperate need in the southern end [of York Region] simply because the cost of housing is much more expensive.”

The 140-apartment, Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design–certified project will be located at the southeast corner of Major MacKenzie Drive and Essex Avenue and will be a mixture of one- to four-bedroom units.

Additionally, it will feature design considerations for those with disabilities and be in close proximity to public transit. Spatafora, who serves as vice-chair of both the community services and housing committee and York Housing Inc., said that mid-rise building would fit well into the existing community.

“I think it’s terrific news,” agreed Sylvia Patterson, general manager of housing and long-term care for York Region.

“This is the first substantial family housing complex that the region has brought forward.” Patterson said that the ability to establish similar housing opportunities will depend on funding from senior levels of government. There are currently more than 6,500 people on a waiting list for social housing in York Region. With wait times of up to three to five years, Spatafora said the situation is dire.

“It’s not going to get any better,” he said, adding the region is projected to have a population of 1.5 million by 2030. Funding will come from three providers. The Canada-Ontario Affordable Housing Program will put up just over $16 million, with roughly $12 million from Investing in Ontario. York Region will supply the remaining $9 million. Construction on the building is scheduled to begin this summer.

Concerns grow over Yonge & Eg development

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At the eleventh hour, residents presented their concerns over the proposed three-storey retail concourse development on the northwest corner of Yonge Street and Eglinton Avenue that would extend to the edge of the sidewalk, swallowing the existing open space.

“We’re concerned because we believe the open space could better serve the community with a more creative approach. It could be a centrepiece for Toronto,” said Jordan Applebaum, chair of the Eglinton Park Residents’ Association.

A public meeting took place Feb. 2 at the North Toronto Community Centre. It was intended to be an open house for the developers to showcase their drawings, but one local resident, Andre Leroux, decided to take over.

The vice-president of the Sherwood Park Residents’ Association offered a slideshow presentation comparing the location in question to Rockefeller Plaza in New York City. He said both are privately owned, roughly the same size and located in midtown.

The original development of what is now the RioCan towers was built over Starrett Avenue, which used to bisect the block between Yonge Street and Duplex Avenue. City planning staff said the current zoning bylaw for that property states that a minimum of 4,715 square metres of open space is required, but there is no suggestion that this related to the street closure.

According to a report, the proposal is deficient in open space. Coun. Karen Stintz said that as a result of public consultation, the developer has made accommodations, including a rooftop garden that would be more preferable because the food court is underneath the current square. RioCan could not be reached for comment.

Les Mis legend takes a spring stroll through the Roncey

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When producers of the original Les Miserables searched for a leading man with the face of a felon and the voice of an angel, they had to look no further than Colm Wilkinson.  

Yet when I meet with Colm at the Inter Steer Pub in Roncesvalles Village, his welcoming handshake and warm smile don’t give the impression of a convict, but of a distinguished Irishman who seems right at home in this quaint west-end Toronto neighbourhood.

“For me, being European, I hear a lot about villages here,” says Wilkinson. “I go around looking for them. This for me is the nearest you can get to one. It’s somewhat small and contained. I just love it.”

Born in Dublin, Ireland, the talented tenor bounced from London to Broadway to carry the part of Jean Valjean in Les Miserables before moving his family to Toronto in 1989 to take on the lead in Phantom of the Opera.

“I’d been doing Phantom for four and a half years, the kids were on track, it was a very safe city, close to New York and so we stayed,” he says.

And now with his children grown, a dog-eared passport and a newly-released CD entitled Broadway and Beyond, Colm attests to feeling most content when he can return to his roots right here in Roncesvalles. 

“I would say that this area reminds me most of Ireland,” he says. “It’s very, very friendly, and has the feel of a small community.”

Sitting in the low-lit pub Colm expands on this tight-knit notion by reviewing some of the local characters who keep the area interesting. A former general who walks from Mississauga each day to play piano at a local bar, a cheery crossing guard who showers passersby with lollipops and curry powder and a mainstay patron of the Inter Steer pub where Colm and I sip on pop and scope out the area.

“Every time I come in this guy’s either standing at the bar talking to everyone around him or he’s playing chess,” he says, gesturing towards the back of the building. The afternoon sun spotlights the few patrons who mill about an open pool table, exchanging soft arguments in Polish.

Similar banter follows Colm and I as we begin our journey south down Roncesvalles avenue – famous for having been the centre of Toronto’s Polish community for more than half a century.

“There’s a Polish festival here in the summer that we love to come to,” says Colm. “Kids get their faces painted, they’ve got food stalls,  Polish costumes, a stage where local Polish bands play – it’s great  to watch.”

A natural fan of all things music, Colm cites the area’s She Said Boom record store as a key spot for sifting through a variety of vinyl, including soul, his personal favourite.

“You tend to hear lots of great music along this strip,” says Colm as we make our way into Benna’s Bakery and Deli. Greeting us upon arrival are what look like four sisters, who are chatting happily at their registers while pockets of local grocers present their finds.

Rich pastries, fresh loaves of bread and piles of pierogies dominate the shelves of Benna’s while Thin Blue Line Cheese Boutique down the road offers us another taste of temptation.

“I love olives,” says Colm as he scoops up a pile of the fresh fruits presented beautifully in a row of vintage wooden crates. Pretending to swallow a mouthful, Colm speaks to the modestly elegant decor of the fine cheese shop and the jovial attitude that seems to pan across every such store in Roncesvalles.

“We’ll come again,” he says to the young man behind the counter, who by now has exchanged names, a handshake and a few friendly words with the singer.

As we walk towards Hawk Eyes – referred to as a “must-see” by Colm, he points out the local library and churches, praising the stately architecture that surrounds us.

“Some beautiful old homes in this area,”  he says pointing towards the west. “That’s the side that’s the more upmarket although there’s great stuff on this side as well.”

As we saunter into Hawk Eyes – a kitschy vintage furniture boutique with the look of an antique dollhouse – we’re welcomed by a tiny dog and by Rachelle, the young owner who has come to know Colm over the years.

“The teapot was a huge hit,” he tells her of a recent purchase before dramatically reciting a verse from one of the store’s vintage paperbacks.

A quick peek into the local independent movie rental shop (and not to mention ice cream parlour) The Film Buff, and then we find ourselves reflecting upon the day and neighbourhood over a latte and an iced tea at Tinto Coffee House

“You’ve got a park, a lake, coffee bars, bars proper, record shops and some great eating places,” says Colm. “It’s just a wonderful place to be.”

Leafs’ tough guy shows his sweet side

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STANLEY CUP CHAMP
DUFFLET PASTRIES

TOP-SHELF TREAT

It’s no secret that Wendel Clark is a guy’s guy. His restaurants serve “guy food” — ribs, wings, steaks, “stuff like that,” he says. But plunk his burly frame down in front of the best chocolate cakes in the city and watch his face light up like a kid’s at a birthday party. Dufflet’s decadent slice wins top billing for sticking to the basics — no frou-frou flourishes here.

“This one seems most like chocolate cake to me. The perfect density, not too much icing in the middle so you still have a lot of cake flavour. And it’s a strong icing on top,” he says. Just don’t go hiding his fork. Price: $25 for full cake, 2638 Yonge St., 416-484-9080

Click here to watch Wendel pick his favourite cake

CONFERENCE WINNER

 
Phipps, 420 Eglinton Ave. W.
Despite being one of the toughest enforcers to ever play the game, Clark finds himself overmatched with this slice. “That’s chocolate chocolate. It’s the densest of the chocolate cakes,” he says. Too rich and dense for him, but a worthy runner-up. Price: $29.99 for full cake

ROOKIE OF THE YEAR


McEwan, 38 Karl Fraser Rd.
Clark approves of this chocolate raspberry cake from McEwan. “It’s more cake versus a mousse,” he says. “There’s more density to it.” But in the end, the “very, very mild” chocolate flavour draws a penalty, something with which he’s more than a little familiar. Price: $29 for full cake

MOUSSE IMPROVED


Amadeus, 7380 Bathurst St.

“This one’s probably a dessert at a fancier restaurant,” says Clark of this chocolate mousse cake from Amadeus. “The appearance is fine but it doesn’t have the presentation the others do.” A nice after-dinner treat, but not his first choice. Price: $26.50 for full cake

CALLED FOR ICING


Grodzinski’s,
3437 Bathurst St.

Beneath his tough exterior, Clark’s a sweet guy, but even he has his limits. “Too sugary. It’s different than I thought it would taste. It actually tastes more sugary than chocolatey to me, if that makes sense.” Too sweet, not enough substance knocks it to fifth. Price: $21 for full cake

For more information on Wendel’s restaurants visit wendelclarks.com or entertainmentcentralinc.com

Atom Egoyan

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A STRANGE THOUGHT occurs while watching Atom Egoyan’s new film, Chloe, a noirish, erotically charged drama that stars Julianne Moore, Liam Neeson and anime-faced “it girl” Amanda Seyfried. Toronto has never been immortalized or romanticized the way New York was in Woody Allen’s early, funny films. Allen gave us Manhattan, but where is our Scarborough, our Etobicoke?

Of course, from Hollywood’s perspective, Toronto is not Toronto. It’s Chicago or New York or Boston or at least an aesthetically and economically reasonable facsimile. It’s a body double in films as diverse as The Incredible Hulk and Hairspray, Serendipity and Cinderella Man. It’s a chameleon-like metropolis that rarely, if ever, plays itself. When it does — in Strange Brew or The Love Guru, for example — it’s merely wallpaper, another of the many extras hanging around the set hoping for a close-up.

Enter Egoyan, whose films often cast his adopted hometown in noteworthy supporting roles, which is uncommon even among Canadian filmmakers, who sometimes try to hide their roots in hopes that anonymity will lead to greater appeal (but usually results in even greater anonymity). Egoyan’s first feature, Next of Kin, was shot in Kensington Market.

Similarly,Exotica,The Adjuster and Ararat made significant use of the local scenery, often in alienating or isolating fashion, which is in keeping with the themes common to Egoyan’s body of work.

Then there’s Chloe, easily Egoyan’s most accessible — and most star-driven — film, which takes considerable care to evoke Toronto’s glamour and warmth even though it was shot in the dead of winter.

“The architectural brand of the city has changed dramatically. It’s been reborn — and for the better — over the last 10 years, thanks to the AGO, the ROM,the growth along Queen Street, which, from the Beaches to Roncesvalles, is one of the most incredible stretches of any city in the world,” Egoyan says during a recent phone interview. “With Chloe, I wanted to reflect that,to bring out the beauty and romanticism of the city that’s been largely absent onscreen.”

It’s that sense of architectural wonder and romanticism that first drew Egoyan to the Summerhill neighbourhood where he’s lived for the last several years. The filmmaker shares a beautiful home with his wife, actress Arsinée Khanjian, who has appeared in several of his films, and their son, Arshile, who is named after Armenian-American painter Arshile Gorky.

Egoyan is 49, with floppy brown hair, round eyeglasses and a scholarly air that lend him a certain middle-aged Harry Potter appearance. Granted, Egoyan is only interested in movie magic,not hexes, spells and potions. And just as Woody Allen adores the Big Apple, he’s clearly having an affaire de coeur with the city he’s called home since moving from Victoria to attend the University of Toronto more than 30 years ago.

Almost every scene in Chloe is instantly recognizable, from hip and trendy Yorkville to cool and classy downtown restaurants like the Rivoli and Café Diplomatico, and each does a terrific job of stealing the spotlight from its far more glamorous — and occasionally naked — co-stars. “Other cities only have pockets of what we have here. But these locations are never used in Hollywood films because they don’t look enough like the cities Toronto stands in for,”he says.

Chloe delves into the mercurial waters of marriage, jealousy and infidelity with its story of a doctor (Moore) who hires an escort (Seyfried) to seduce her philandering husband (Neeson) only to discover she’s being seduced herself.

It’s based on the French film Nathalie,which Egoyan saw at the 2005 Toronto International Film Festival. When producer and fellow North Toronto native Ivan Reitman handed Egoyan the script, he didn’t even recognize it as an adaptation. “It felt very new to me,” he says, noting that Chloe explores the titular prostitute’s obsession with the doctor.

“The wife becomes obsessed with these erotic stories that Chloe tells her about the man she thought she knew,and as a result, they enter into this complicated relationship where they are both soothing each other but also tormenting each other,” Egoyan says.

“That was a rich area of psychological drama to explore,which is obviously what I’m most interested in.”

Egoyan is an Oscar-nominated director and screenwriter (for The Sweet Hereafter) although Chloe is his first film that he didn’t have a hand in writing.The script was written by Erin Cressida Wilson — who also penned the erotic drama Secretary, starring Maggie Gyllenhaal and James Spader — and set in her hometown of San Francisco,which caused Egoyan to balk when he first read it.“I wasn’t sure about the dynamics of the relationships involved in Nathalie, which were very specific and very Parisian, and then to move it to San Francisco — I would be a tourist in San Francisco,” he says. “It’s not a place, a social milieu with which I’m familiar. But I felt if we brought the story to Toronto — and I could show that the city can be just as alluring and as sexy as those other settings — that I could bring something to it.”

As with his other films, casting was crucial to making the story work, and never before has he recruited such a highprofile cast.

“Not only does it matter who you cast in terms of them being right for the role, but it also plays into whether or not you’re able to get funding and distribution,”says Egoyan, who discusses the Hollywoodinfluenced decision-making process with surprising ease.

“Julianne is one of our finest actresses and a true leading lady. Amanda was always my first choice, but she wasn’t a known quantity.She was on the TV series Big Love, but Mamma Mia! hadn’t come out yet,” he explains. (She’s also in Dear John, which bumped Avatar from its seven-week reign at the box office.) “Of course, once [Mamma Mia!] became a huge hit, it made our choice look that much smarter. And a similar thing happened with Liam. I’ve always appreciated his work tremendously, and then, while we were still filming, Taken comes out and is a huge hit.It was a bit of unexpected good fortune for us because again we look really smart for having him in our movie.”

Unfortunately,production was without Neeson for several days after his wife, Natasha Richardson, died following a freak skiing accident in Quebec. Neeson returned a week later to shoot his remaining scenes in just two days. “We were all so worried for Liam,and we were all very grateful when he came back and finished the job. He was a consummate professional, and we were eternally grateful.”

Surprisingly, for a filmmaker with a reputation as a provocateur, an art house darling and perhaps a bit of an enfant terrible known for writing intellectually challenging stories, Egoyan found the experience of shooting someone else’s rather linear script liberating.

“Sometimes,with a script I’ve written,I’m not quite sure what a scene is about until I see it edited together within the context of the whole film, but working from Erin’s script allowed me to focus on bringing out the nature of each scene as we were filming,”he says.

“Scenes I watch now I would never have written myself. I love melodrama, but I’m not capable of writing it well. And remember, when I started out, I was just a director for hire — I shot the pilot episode of the Friday the 13th TV series.”

It’s strange to think that Egoyan began his career working on a TV show inspired by a blockbuster series of slasher films. Then again, even Canada’s foremost auteur filmmaker has to start somewhere.

 Web exclusive quote from Egoyan:

"Film records a very specific moment or series of moments that will exist as long as the film does. Unlike a play, which exists only in that moment in which it is performed and then fades into memory. Film becomes a faithful record of all of the decisions you made as a filmmaker, during pre-production, during filming and during post-production. Everyone can see the daring and risky choices you made, the safe choices, and the utterly wrong-headed choices, and those especially will come back to haunt you. That is the power and horror of cinematography."

Tanning sans the sun

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“I WAS IN Florida for a week,” my friend moaned over a recent dinner. “And you look better than I do!” At the restaurant, my friend did look tired and pale (like everybody who went to Florida this winter; I feel for you). But there I was, looking and feeling healthy and bronzed, as if I had just come back from a week in Barbados.

What I actually had been doing was spending almost every hour of every day in February inside my house. I didn’t even have to leave my house to look like I had gone away to a tropical destination.

Thanks to a mobile spray tanning company, in less than 20 minutes I looked like I had just come home from a relaxing vacay. The company’s motto is appropriate: “We’ll Bring the Sun to You.”

Nicole Hyatt founded the company three and a half years ago, and business has been so good that there are now Tan on the Run franchises all over the country.

“I used to go to go get mists in a place in Yorkville. But you couldn’t wear your bra afterwards because it would streak, and I kind of looked orange. So I would be walking around braless and orange, and I thought, ‘There must be a better way,’” Hyatt says.

Also, as a single mother, she wanted a job where she could spend more time with her son. So, after training in California and trying “nearly a dozen” solutions, she came up with the perfect colour for a fake tan. Now she makes her own solution and can customize a tan for your skin tone.

I admit I was worried about getting a fake tan. This was before I found out she had done Lady Gaga, Fergie and Leona Lewis, to name a few celebrities. If Hyatt was good enough for Lady Gaga, she was certainly good enough for me.

I definitely didn’t want to look like Lindsay Lohan, or any other number of celebrities who, I’m sorry, do look orange.

“Please,” I beg Hyatt. “Let’s do the lightest colour. I don’t want to look orange.”

“Don’t worry. That’s everyone’s first question. They always tell me they don’t want to look orange.”

Hyatt arrives with a tent contraption and her airbrush machine, which fits in a gym bag. She can set up anywhere in your house on a hard floor — no carpet — so we head to the living room. She is ready to go in less than five minutes.

I’ve already prepared: exfoliated my skin, shaved my legs, didn’t apply moisturizer or deodorant, removed all my jewellery.

“I do a lot of housewives,” Hyatt says. “I find that people would rather not leave their homes to do this. They’re more comfortable.”

Mostly, women will either get entirely naked or wear just bikini bottoms. “I see naked people all day long,” she laughs.

The solution Hyatt uses for the spray tan is organic and includes anti-aging ingredients as well as aloe and vitamin E to nourish and hydrate the skin. The solution does not stain (I put clothes back on immediately) and is supposedly odourless, which ends up being not entirely true. But it is a nice odor, kind of like air freshener.

Now, I don’t have to go on about the harmful effects of tanning, because we all know them, so I won’t.Not that real sun being bad for your skin is the only reason to get a spray tan.

“Having colour makes you look better and healthier.We only have, like, what, two months to get sun in Canada a year anyway?” says Hyatt.

In fact, her busiest times of the year are right before March and Christmas when people are heading on vacation. “You don’t want to go on vacation and go on the beach and look white and pasty. Same with the summer,” she says.

On numerous occasions, she’s been called to hotel rooms for people who have a stopover in Toronto before heading to a tropical destination.

“Quite frankly,” she says, “when you get a spray-on tan, it also looks like you’ve dropped 10 pounds. Instead of hours at the gym, you can get a tan,” she laughs.

Hyatt also can spray to contour definition on body parts. “Usually where you can flex I can contour, so it makes your muscles looked more defined.” (Bonus!)

Tanning parties are becoming very trendy. “A group of six women will get together and they’ll each take their turn. It’s a lot of fun. At first, some of the women are shy, but by the end they’re all walking around topless and laughing.Their husbands aren’t allowed to be around.” (And, yes, there are usually cocktails involved.)

But, for Hyatt, it’s not all tan and games. Though I find her very thorough (I’m told to stand in certain positions so she can spray every inch of my body, from my knuckles, to the back of my neck, to my underarms), a client once fumed that she wanted her toes “darker.”

“I told her that it takes eight hours for the full effect to set in, but she kept demanding that I made sure her feet and toes were extra dark,” she laughs. Also, her age limit is 16 (with parents permission), but she has received calls from mothers who want to tan their daughters as young as eight years old. (That whole Toddlers & Tiaras show has really messed with some parents’ minds!).

Hyatt also has a special spray tan for brides, which has absolutely no dye, so a bride can put on a wedding dress without worry the same day.

The air spray is cool on my body but feels nice. I’m not to swim, bath or exercise for six to eight hours. To keep my tan as long as possible, I should moisturize twice a day.

The tan should last between seven and 10 days.

“I have women who do it once a week and have for three years,”she says.

For $60, it’s worth it. No hassle at the airport, no flying, and I do look like I’ve gone to a beach for a week without leaving my house at all.

 

Have fork, will travel: T.O.'s top dog heads to China

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I recently travelled for eight days through China on a menu-consulting and “fact-finding” trip, eating and making tasting notes on dishes that impressed me. I visited cities that I’d never seen, and shook my head at the surprising ways that China and its technology, its industry and its social customs are evolving.  

In Beijing, I stayed at the Hyatt. The dishes appeared pretty Westernized until I tasted an unexpected and wonderful chicken entree made with fermented bean paste. The chef had used the chicken leg instead of the typical breast, and the meat had a great juicy flavour.

During my Beijing stop, I was totally won over by a little grilled burger, or slider, served in a Chinese bun. I’m going to adapt that recipe at Lee, when we open the restaurant for lunch this March.

When I had dinner at Big Boss, a Beijing restaurant that can seat 300-400 people, I noticed the escalating trend in China towards elaborate décor and setting, not to mention high prices.  Menus are huge and glossy and filled with colour photos of specialty dishes.

The Big Boss menu featured photos of Peking duck with lavish descriptions of the taste and texture of the dish. There was even poetry about the tasting experience!

The difference in customer service at restaurants in China also impressed me: servers are much more educated about food, and can explain the preparation of a dish. Western influence is obvious in the place settings, where a knife and fork accompany chopsticks.

When I was growing up, the sight of a Chinese family using knives and forks was as rare as seeing a flying saucer!

 

Chef Susur Lee maintains two successful restaurants in downtown Toronto – LEE and MADELINE’S — and now has a restaurant in New York (Shang) and Washington (Zentan).

Crazy for crostini at Leslieville bistro

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During a recent visit to Table 17, we began with appetizer crostini: savoury Tamworth pig lardo and rosemary. The earthy taste combined with the silken texture of the lardo on the crunchy crostini was an addictive experience. This was a hit!

The second crostini, white bean puree was topped with crispy pancetta and braised escarole, another hit. A third crostini of creamed cauliflower with brown butter and hazelnuts was very good but not as tasty as the others.

Our first course was a rich and savoury, mildly salty culatello, from the top sirloin of Tamworth ham. It was plated with a very crispy "torta frita" and a nippy pear mostarda. A terrific range of very complementary flavours, served with the mild bite of radish greens.

"Dolce forte" wild boar croquette followed. What a delightful dish because of the range of flavours and textures. The wild boar was coarsely chopped, seared and combined with chili, cloves and currents producing a mildly sweet spiciness. The meat was surrounded by mashed potatoes and an outer crispy breadcrumb coating. The plating again was thoughtful with cubes of sweet potato, all topped with mixed greens.

Perfectly braised, very tender, slow-roasted venison osso bucco was our next course. The sauce included an interesting touch of cinnamon, lemon zest and a bit of cloves. The meat was plated on a complementary tasting celery root puree. A small spoon was served to access the delicious bone marrow. A sprig of sage on the plate was more than decor. Cutting little pieces to eat with the venison perked up the taste even more.

The wonderful meal was complete with a serving of a "duo" of pecorino cheese.

John Sinopoli is the executive chef and partner at Table 17. Before coming to Toronto he spent over a year in Japan studying local cooking styles, then attended the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. After graduating, he worked at several very well known New York establishments, including La Caravelle, Craft and Gramercy Tavern. When he returned to Toronto, he worked with Chef David Lee at Splendido. Quite the culinary background.

 

Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.

Local couple help hungry & homeless

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IT WAS A Wednesday afternoon and Gordon Robertson was helping run the Drop Inn program at his church, as he did every Wednesday.

As the centre was closing, an older couple showed up looking for help. Gordon suspected they hadn’t eaten in days.

“They had absolutely nothing, and they wondered if they could just get a few groceries,” he says. It’s a familiar story, Gordon says, especially recently, as the economy has dampened.

The former North York General Hospital doctor and his wife, Evelyn, coordinated the drop-in centre for the hungry and the homeless with fellow churchgoer, Irene Carriere, more than a decade ago. They recognized a need in the area and established the program through Newtonbrook United Church’s outreach branch, in partnership with the Taiwanese United Church.

“People were coming to the door of the church asking for food and asking for help,” says Evelyn.

The long-time area residents had spent a number of years volunteering for Out of the Cold, so they had a sense of how to go about setting up this assistance, Evelyn explains.

Even though the Drop Inn opened the same day former mayor Mel Lastman called in the troops to dig Toronto out from a massive snowfall, six people made it in.The program now brings in about 100 people a week, says Gordon, with a notable increase over the past year.

“They’re really a forgotten group in our society and they need help,” he says.

Gordon indicates that many of their guests have a serious mental health issue or are battling substance abuse.A smaller number of people have simply lost their job. Not all the people who attend the drop-in are homeless, but all require assistance.

Evelyn says she feels nobody should have to go hungry or face those circumstances alone.

“It’s really important that we do something to help alleviate that and give people the opportunity to get support,” she says.

The Drop Inn centre is held in the Newtonbrook United Church’s auditorium every Wednesday, all year round. Opening at 8 a.m., the program includes a buffet breakfast and a noon hour lunch, served up by the volunteers.

The program receives funding through donations from church members and the general public.

Rev. Allan Baker says that Gordon and Evelyn’s stewardship of the Drop Inn has been tremendously important to the program’s success.

“They are the saints,” he says. The Robertsons are incredibly humble about their contributions though. Gordon remarks that all they do is coordinate the program, along with Carriere.

Evelyn adds that it would be impossible to run the drop-in centre without the tireless efforts of its many volunteers. Through word of mouth, she says, the kind of assistance they’ve been able to provide has expanded considerably.

In the last year, two doctors and a psychiatrist from North York General Hospital have come on board, providing much needed medical and psychiatric care.

Dr. Antoinette Wertman is a family physician who lends her time and services to the drop-in program. Simply put, Wertman says,“It’s like a community centre.”

In many ways, the drop-in is more than a place to get a meal. Not only can visitors shower and pick up clothes, they can relax and have a cup of coffee. Another of the program’s partners, Toronto North Support Services, sends outreach workers who are available to go over how to access disability, pensions and welfare with guests.

There’s even a fellow who helps people who have lost their identification or had it stolen, Gordon says, as a social insurance number is needed to get a job.

Evelyn recalls the day a man who had been sleeping in a tent was able to come in and tell them that he would no longer be stopping by — he had found a job.

“We realized it’s only a drop in the bucket,”says Gordon. But their goal is to help however they can.

“When you go home, you might be tired and exhausted, but you do feel a lot better by then,” says Evelyn. “The words we hear most frequently are ‘Thank you.’

 

Recipe: Tomato sauce for your meatballs

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This isn’t anyone’s favourite time of year. The weather is cold, damp and gloomy. To make things worse, with the Christmas season behind us, everyone’s favourite topic is scaling back, drinking less and losing a few pounds. Joyless stuff all around.

Personally, I do cut back a little on rich, celebratory foods at this time of year, but I don’t get carried away and suddenly embrace an ascetic diet of salad and tofu.

Instead, I go halfway and take solace in comfort foods, which for me are basically those things that I loved when I was a kid. And like every other child, I had a thing for spaghetti and meatballs. I still do; all that’s changed over the years is the steadily improving recipe.

The recipe I use is actually not mine, but my wife Roxanne’s. She picked it up years ago from her sister Francine, a very good cook who makes her tomato sauce the right way by reducing it slowly to dull the acidity in the tomatoes and bring out their sweetness instead.  

Click here for Mark’s favourite tomato sauce recipe.

The key to a good meatball is lightness, and these achieve that by avoiding the usual breadcrumb filler and instead combine the veal with fresh ricotta. All you need to finish the package is some great quality dry Italian pasta, like Rustichella d’Abruzzo, and a nice piece of aged Parmesan Reggiano.

Celebrity chef Mark McEwan is the force behind some of Toronto’s finest restaurants, including Bymark, North 44 and One Restaurant. His latest venture, McEwan, is a gourmet food market at the Shops at Don Mills. You can find his spaghetti and meatballs recipe in his upcoming cookbook, to be published this fall by Penguin Canada, or you can pick it up at McEwan Fine Foods.