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Authentic tacos worth the drive north of the city

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Recently, a friend told me about a fast food place in a mall food court where I could get authentic Mexican tacos.

When I heard how far away the location was, northwest of Highway 400 and Finch Avenue, I was a bit discouraged.

However, my food curiosity won out and I headed up the 400 to the Milvan Shopping Centre, also known as the Plaza Latina Milvan.

After searching up and down the street, I finally found the "mall" — a building with several stores at the front that weren’t open for business. I had to find someone to direct me to doors that led to the inside of the mall.

At first, the narrow hallway made me wonder if this trip would be worth it, but then it suddenly opened up into a modest-sized food court with several Spanish influenced (Mexican, Colombian, etc.) take-out restaurants. The food court was packed, mostly by people of Spanish descent.

I walked over to Chilango Taco, as tacos were my goal. I ordered a pork barbacoa taco. It was made from scratch.

The tacos were freshly fried on the grill and were the soft variety, covered with pieces of the pork, chopped cilantro, both raw and fried onions, a small slice of pineapple, and a lime to be squeezed.

What a gathering of complementary flavours and, this was the best, the bill for five tacos and a bottle of water: $11.

Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.

Living on the edge

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Trees off terrace in North T.O.

Truly a dream in green — this magnificent manor boasts an elegant flagstone patio with ravine vistas, perennial gardens and a custom greenhouse.

Listing price $2,395,000
Address 11 Douglas Cres.
Intersection Bayview and Governor’s Bridge
Lot 40 by 171 feet
Days on the market 41
Agent Fran Bennett
Agency Chestnut Park Real Estate
Special features Sunken living room with gas fireplace; wall speaker sound system; restored, enhanced original Art Deco features

NEXT: Bayview’s botanical beauty

Opening Soon: No One Writes to the Colonel on College

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No One Writes to the Colonel, named after Gabriel Garcia Márquez’s novella about an old, forgotten Colonel, is the type of place that just feels, well, familiar.

"We want it to feel a little like home," owner Marty Smits tells PostCity.com.

Smits has poured a lot of himself into the College and Bathurst bar, which lies in the "no man’s land" between Little Italy and Kensington Market.  Along with co-owner Miks Petersons, Smits has done most of the renovations himself and many of the little extra touches dig at his roots. 

On the menu are Latvian desserts and drinks — fitting considering both Smits and Petersons are Latvian.  In fact, No One Writes to the Colonel started as a bar in their home country, before its offspring sprouted wings and migrated over to Toronto.

"It played a lot of NIN, it was kind of angsty," says Smits of the original Latvian start-up, which was built on the sense of isolation felt in the novella. The Toronto version, however, is completely the opposite.

Walk in and you’re greeted by a couple of inviting couches flanking a fireplace. 

Keep walking, and you’ll notice kitsch, 60s low-lying hanging lamps and mod tables and chairs — the type that scream grandpa chic.

Speaking of the old timers, along the walls you’ll find shelves made of 100-year-old barn wood Smits found out by his grandparents’ place.  Along the back wall, where the stage is located, is an impressively mounted Latvian LP collection, complements of Smits’ grandmother.

Meanwhile, the bar is the type of place where people come to have a conversation, while listening to a live jazz trio in the background. Marty, a former DJ, says there will be a rotation of professionals taking to the turn tables, but that the music will be ambient and not meant for dancing.

The menu will offer a selection of deserts, salads, and soups. 

Barring any further problems with the sprinkler system, No One Writes to the Colonel will likely open next month.  Marty says he hopes it’s the type of place that just fits with the locals.  The type of place, perhaps, that an old, tired Colonel would love to retire to for a drink and a willing ear.

(460 College St, Toronto, ON)

 

My Toronto: Jill Hennessy on her favourite T.O. finds

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HOW DO I write about my favourite aspects of Toronto? How much time do you have?

Let’s start with Queen Street West where, during my busking days, I had the good fortune to hear bands including the Barenaked Ladies, Blue Rodeo and the Leslie Spit Treeo at places such as the Horseshoe, the Rivoli or just singin’ on the street.

Meanwhile, I would be playing my guitar and singing for absolute strangers on the sidewalk who made me feel like I could actually sing and play (and whose generosity paid my rent).

Dare I describe the delight of Joso’s with its superlative fish menu enjoyed in rooms filled with voluptuous, sensuous artwork and presided over by the lovely Elena and family.

Or how ’bout the clubs of Church and Wellesley where you could dance ’til dawn for little to no money and admire some of the most fabulous drag queens around? I also paid $400 a month for a great basement bachelor pad there and could sit outside my building and talk to fascinating people all evening.

And how do I describe the beauty of the parks and the boardwalk of the Beaches?

One of my favourite dinner choices, when I lived on Lee Avenue, was to pick up a spicy Jamaican patty with a soda and walk to the park to enjoy a spectacular sunset while watching Little League games.

Don’t even get me started on the nightlife of Richmond and King Streets, the beauty of Avenue and Bloor with the ROM, the warm sense of community at Yonge and Eg’ and surrounding neighborhoods.The killer food and vibrancy of Chinatown, Massey Hall, Sneaky Dee’s … somebody stop me!

Jill Hennessy’s debut album Ghost in My Head will be released this month

 

Has Lichee gotten lost in the Garden?

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When Toronto’s Chinese culinary centre Lichee Garden closed the doors of their Thornhill location roughly a year ago, it was with the promise that a new, downtown theatre district restaurant was in the works.

Fast forward a year, and the state of the sanctuary’s new location seems a little, well, stagnant and uncertain.

A quick Google search offers a local telephone number for the restaurant — situated on "King Street West," with no street number listed. Calls to the restaurant, however, are met with an automated message stating that the number is no longer in service. Attempts to reach anyone attached to the restaurant via the email address listed on the eatery’s website likewise go unreturned.

An impromptu visit to the apparent new location — on the south side of King Street West, east of Spadina Avenue, across the street from Mountain Equipment Co-op —offered little in the way of additional information regarding the progress of the new space. A peak inside the locked front door, under red and black Lichee Garden lettering, reveal an "opening soon" sign posted on an inner door — but that’s about it. No additional dates, no additional details.

For a restaurant with a storied history of location switches since it opened roughly six decades ago — the Atrium on Bay, Dundas Street at University and Centre Street in Thornhill to name a few — it’s hard not to wonder if perhaps the luck has run out for the landmark eatery.

 

Dish by dish at Scott Conant's Scarpetta

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With New York Chef Scott Conant at the helm, Scarpetta enjoyed a much-anticipated opening late last month.

Located in the avant-garde Thompson Hotel, the restaurant is very modern and minimal but, at the same time, quite comfortable.

We began with puree of cauliflower soup with poached oysters, small chunks of cauliflower, crispy shallots and bottarga di muggine.

The ingredients were presented "dry" in the bowl and the soup was poured over them at the table. The creamy soup had a very pleasant, well-developed cauliflower flavour with the raw oyster and bottarga adding to the taste.

Next, "crispy" fritto misto came in a light, truly crispy batter that enrobed slivers of artichoke, eggplant, whitefish, rock shrimp and small rings of calamari. All were tossed with crispy sprigs of sage, rosemary and thyme and sprinkled lightly with chili pepper flakes. This was a terrific dish and will be a regular favourite on my returns.

We followed with creamy polenta with a fricassee of truffled mushrooms. The polenta was deliciously creamy and was accompanied by a side pot of a dark, rich sauce consisting of chicken stock, truffle juice and wild mushroom reduction with wild mushrooms. The sauce was  then lovingly spooned over the polenta.

Spaghetti with tomato and basil, a dish that also had some garlic parmesan cheese and olive oil, was introduced to us as Chef Conant’s classic dish and one of the most requested at the New York Restaurant. However, although this dish was good, it did not blow us away because it lacked the depth of flavour that all the other dishes had.

We followed with lardo wrapped halibut accompanied by morels, asparagus and smoked potatoes. The smoky taste of the potatoes was the hallmark of this dish but, unfortunately, the halibut was overcooked.

Moist roasted capretto was served with rapini, pancettta and potatoes. The capretto was slow cooked to perfection and "moist" as advertised. This dish was a big hit.

Ocean trout, with its delicious, crisply seared skin, was served on a bed of braised lentils and almond puree and topped with salmon roe. The salmon roe was superfluous but the trout was properly cooked and the almond puree served as an original and highly flattering complement for the fish.

Our first dessert was a very good Amadei chocolate cake served with burnt orange-caramel gelato and espresso sauce.

Our second dessert was amaretto flan with rosemary roasted apricot and marsala zabaglione gelato. Although this dessert was good overall, the menu does not tell you that the amaretto flan was actually a chocolate amaretto flan. This was a dish that one dreams about, sending us to heaven as we savoured each small spoon of its goodness.

 

550 Wellington Street West Toronto, ON M5V 2V4 (416) 640-7778

Dr. Josh Josephson is the owner of The Cookbook Store and Josephson Opticians. He is a chevalier of Les Chevalier du Tastevin and the Le Chaine des Rotisseurs, a member of L’ordre Mondiale and a member and former president of the International Wine and Food Society, Toronto chapter.

Brick Works to become T.O.’s unofficial graffiti museum

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AFTER THE DON Valley Brick Works closed, the dilapidated kiln buildings were home to legendary raves, bush parties and graffiti artists. Now, as the revitalization is underway and the Brick Works is transformed into a “Centre for Urban Sustainability,” the future of the site is butting heads with its rich history in the form of years of graffiti art on the building walls.

Instead of blasting away the colourful reminders of the past, Evergreen, the group restoring the site, decided to keep the majority of graffiti. In addition, the group is adding some of its own to the mix, enlisting one of the city’s leading street artists Dan Bergeron, a.k.a. Faux Reel, for the job.

“I hadn’t been through the Brick Works for about 16 years,” Bergeron says. “I think the last time was to get directions for a rave.”

Bergeron was approached by the group Diaspora Dialogues to be part of a Doors Open exhibit. “I was completely surprised that they were going to keep the graffiti,” Bergeron says.

“Evergreen’s progressive view is that the graffiti is a layer of history on the site. When the site closed and was abandoned, it was the graffiti writers who claimed it and made it their own.”

Bergeron’s work involved photographing six former employees who were at the Brick Works when it closed in 1984.The larger-than-life portraits were created, sliced and stuck on the wall brick by brick in a painstaking process documented on Bergeron’s website.

“Although I immediately knew that I wanted to photograph workers who were there when the site closed, I wasn’t sure what to do with these images,” Bergeron explains.

“After much thinking (staring at the ceiling and surfing the Internet), I realized how important it was that I reveal who these men are.”

Although meant to be temporary, Anthony Westenberg, manager of public relations for Evergreeen, says the portraits will remain up as long as possible.

“We’re going to work around them,”Westenberg says. “What I love about Dan’s work is that it combines all of that history (from brick workers to graffiti artists) to almost close that chapter.”

Go to evergreen.ca for info.

 

Top three picks at Toronto's Festival of Beer

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With Toronto’s Festival of Beer off to a full and frothy start, armchair beer connoisseurs have the chance to sample a wide variety of beer from all over the world. Once you’ve whet your palate with some Stiegl and enjoyed an obligatory cup of Corona (lime included), head over to the CASKapalooza tent for something you won’t find at The Beer Store.

Hosted by Great Lakes Brewery, CASKapalooza features 20 unique, one-off casks brewed specially for the event. By foregoing the pasteurization process necessary to extend the shelf life of store-bought beverages, the brews offer subtle yet complex flavour notes. But since beer tokens are precious, PostCity.com has narrowed the list down to three must-sample ales:

1. Up in Smoke Rauchbier

True to its name, this ale is pure charcuterie in a glass, with a bold, rich BBQ flavour that ends in a satisfying, smoky finish. Definitely not something you would drink consistently, but a must-try for those looking for something different. Pair with meat!

2.Morning Glory Breakfast Stout

If you’re a stout fan looking for a break from the Guinness/Kilkenny pub standard, give this one a taste. It’s smooth, velvety texture and distinct coffee notes make it perfectly suited to the rigours of post-dinner conversation. Rich and flavourful.

3. Sweet Pete’s Peach Wheat

Fruity beer fans, rejoice! Sweet Pete’s Peach Wheat (try saying that five times fast) offers a light, refreshing peach flavour that melts in your mouth. Be sure to congratulate Great Lakes’ president Peter Bulut on his excellent and aptly-named ale.

CASKapalooza and the beer festival run until Sunday.

Happy Drinking!

This is a 19+ event, no children, no pets, no exceptions! Dates and times: Bandshell Park, Exhibition Place Sat-Sun 1-7 p.m.

 

The fabulous Quinns open another winner downtown

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Gavin Quinn knows the hospitality trade. Not many restaurateurs in the city can claim roots that extend back to the pub trade in Dublin, Ireland. Quinn can, and on both sides of his family.

Gavin and his seven siblings grew up in the trade under the guidance of the late family patriarch, Pat Quinn, who had a chain of pubs in Ireland, as his father did before him, before picking up and moving the family to Canada.

The family foodie empire has expanded and now includes P.J. O’Brien, the Irish Embassy pubs in Toronto and Montreal, Shopsy’s Deli and the new addition to the flock: Quinn’s Steakhouse located in the Sheraton Centre.

Run by Gavin, the steak house kitchen is helmed by Paul Pisa, who has a sizable resumé that includes a stint alongside Keith Froggett at Scaramouche as well as being the personal chef of Gerry Schwartz and Heather Reisman.

“He was cooking for all kinds of A-listers,” says Quinn, over a pint of Ireland’s finest. “He’s top ten in the city … if not higher. And his passion is way up there. He’s a very inspiring guy to work with.”

Gavin opened up Quinn’s Steakhouse along with a Shopsy’s outlet (following the controversial closure of the Shopsy’s cherished Front Street location).

At Quinn’s the upscale interior features dark shades of red and green with leather chairs and banquettes with wood accents.

The food quality is high, the costs are not. Steaks are a speciality, but the kitchen also shows a deft touch with seafood and a bang on charcuterie plate that would do well alongside a pint of Guinness for lunch.

Quinn’s Steakhouse is located at 96 Richmond St. W., 416-367- 8466.

 

This Weekend: Rogers Cup, Paul McCartney, Taste of the Danforth, Festival of Beer

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As the dog days of summer wind down, make the most of this weekend and enjoy a trip to the theatre, a walk down the Danforth, or a match between the best tennis players in the world. Here’s our weekly guide of the top five things to do this weekend.

Rogers Cup

The best in men’s tennis, including Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal, face off this weekend at the Rogers Cup. Tough luck if you want to see the women compete – they face off in Montreal next weekend.

Tournament starts Saturday — Rexall Centre, 1-877-283-6647 

Taste of the Danforth

If you like meat on a stick, this is the place for you. Sample the best in Greek food and culture at this annual festival on the Danforth. OPA!

Danforth Avenue, Friday to Sunday

Festival of Beer

We know you’re tired of festivals already but if there’s one more you should squeeze in it should be the Festival of Beer. With more than 120 brands onsite, need we say more?

Bandshell Park, Exhibition Place

Summer Theatre Festival Works

More than 40 plays featuring some of Canada’s finest talent showing at venues along the Queen Street West theatre strip. The festival also features 10 nights of local bands and music theatre concerts.

Queen Street West, August 5-15 

Paul McCartney

Sir Paul McCartney takes the stage this Sunday at the Air Canada Centre. Decades after playing in Toronto with the Beatles, Macca is still so popular he’s added another show on Monday.

Air Canada Centre, Aug. 8 and 9

 

Style Q&A: T.O. designer solves your fashion dilemmas

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I’m looking for a great summer dress — any suggestions?

At this stage, you can find some great dresses on sale that will transition forward into fall. Pick up an easy jersey knit sleeveless dress that’s cut a little loose — giving you the option to wear it with a belt.  It’ll work great as a dress through summer or as a tunic over leggings come fall.

How would you dress up a tank top for a dinner date?

Add a great full skirt, a chunky necklace and high heels.

I have an event coming up and my ex will be there. I’d love a suggestion on what I can wear to make him burn?

Wear a perfectly-fitted black dress, sexy high heels, get your hair professionally blown out, wear makeup, and smile non-stop!

With three corporate stores in Toronto, Franco Mirabelli continues to distinguish himself as one of Canada’s strongest fashion talents. Keep up with him by following his weekly blog at PostCity.com or by visiting mirabelli.com.

Toronto tennis great looking to net another title

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EVERY TIME DANIEL Nestor returns to his hometown of Toronto to play at the Rogers Cup it is a memorable experience.

This year will be no different as Nestor tries to regain the title he held back in 2008 when the tournament checks into the National Tennis Centre at York University, Aug. 7 to 15. Coming off of a shocking early round loss at this year’s Wimbledon Championship, Nestor is looking to get his game back on track leading up to the U.S. Open this fall.

You went into this last Wimbledon as two-time defending champs but went down to a couple of young unseeded Brits. What happened?

That was definitely a difficult one to swallow. We were two-time defending champions, but it was just a situation where we were playing two people who were serving huge and just going for it. We thought, if we could just hang with them, they’d drop off, but honestly they maintained it.

How important is it for you to contribute to the growth of the sport and mentor young athletes at home?

It is important for sure, and I’m more than happy to do it. But our best chance at producing a top singles player is to produce one on our own who is consistently playing on TV a lot and beating the top guys.We need that kind of motivation. Doubles will always be secondary, and there is just not as much exposure.

And how are you feeling coming into Toronto for the Rogers Cup?

Obviously, we’re coming in off a loss, and we go to Washington the week before.We need to get some matches in before the U.S. Open, get on a roll. All the tournaments are important, but for me there are none more important than Toronto.

You’re 37, how do you manage to keep up with these young guys?

Well, I think obviously you have to be in shape to keep up. My style is probably better suited to playing doubles. I don’t have a problem with pace. In singles, it is more about footwork, in doubles I only have to cover half the court so it is that much easier.

What has been your biggest win?

The Olympics was huge, of course, because of the stature of the event. And beating the Woodies (Aussies Todd Woodbridge and Mark Woodforde) in the final made it that much more special. They were the best in the world, and that was their last match.