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Jen Agg on the end of the Black Hoof

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When restaurateur Jen Agg opened the Black Hoof, it changed everything. Suddenly, everyone was slurping bone marrow and fine dining was tossed aside for bold food with an indie rock vibe. Now, as of Aug. 20, it’s closing, and it’s a big deal. Post City caught up with Agg to talk about the Hoof, the opening of Le Swan on Queen West (her next big thing) and, well, her idea of perfect happiness.

The Black Hoof is closing this month. If you could control these things, how would you want it to be remembered?

Who says I can’t? But really, I just want it to be remembered as the mould-cracking, corner-turning restaurant it was. The restaurant was the launching pad for quite a few culinary careers and definitely a turning point in the local restaurant scene.

What did you do differently that made such an impact?

I just made the restaurant that I wanted to hang out in. No pandering, but still very hospitable. And it was the right time for that magical combo of great food and service in a cool casual space with loud indie rock and low lighting.

Tell me about the photo of you and the late Anthony Bourdain with him doing bone luge shots. 

LOL, OMG, so embarrassing! I was (God, it still doesn’t feel right to use the past tense) famously very fond of Tony, but I definitely felt like a shooter girl in that moment. I can’t look at that pic.

Was there anything that helped you to realize it was time to close the Hoof?

I decided years ago that 10 was the magic number — I’m literally walking away from the Hoof on the cover of my book. It’s hard to leave money on the table but feels very good to be the arbiter of a dignified death for a thing I deeply love. Going out on top is always how to leave.

You’ve said Grey Gardens was your last opening. What was so great about this new opportunity to take over the Swan that changed your mind?

I mean I only said that because the build was so stressful, and I was just coming off it. What can I say? I’m mercurial. And I f***ing love building restaurants.

What is your vision for the space?

Secret! But obviously it has great bones. We’re doing some reupholstering and making some big lighting changes (but ones that’ll look like they’ve always been there).

What do you find to be the most challenging part of opening a new restaurant?

All the hoop jumping with permits and the city and the AGCO [Alcohol and Gaming Commission of Ontario]. I hate it. And am very grateful I can pay someone to deal with it at this point.

You’ve been at the forefront of gender equity issues in the restaurant industry. We see cases such as Norman Hardie (a winemaker facing sexual misconduct claims), but is that the tip of the iceberg? 

Yes, tip of the iceberg, for sure. What’s particularly funny is watching men I know horrible stories about, condemn men like Hardie. Like LOL. I mean I’ve said it a million times: fear is a far greater motivator than benevolence, and it’s what’s pushing the needle. People don’t want to be called out as abusive assholes, so I’m sure they’re somewhat adjusting their behavior, but it’s just so ingrained. Then there’s the problem of men who are perhaps terrible but not “rape-y” enough to be brought down, and that’s such a part of restaurant culture. A lot has to change. I wish us good luck!

You have a knack for seeing what Toronto really needs in its culinary landscape. What are we missing right now?

I really think we could use a French diner with well-executed comfort food in a super-cool room.

What restaurants inspire you?

Sqirl [L.A.] is the restaurant I most wish we had here: Jessica [chef Jessica Koslow] please! I love Superiority Burger [N.Y.C.], Brooks [Headley] is just a genius. And Wildair [N.Y.C.] (basically whatever those guys do is cool). Momofuku is amazing. I don’t know how he does it. And closer to home, I think what Terroni has done is to be hugely admired. I eat at Foxley and Imanishi weekly, and not just because I’m a creature of habit, but because they’re awesome restaurants.

What is your idea of perfect happiness?

Laughing with my husband and pals, chugging great wine (or maybe it’s watching some ’90s rom-com alone in my room. Why not both!).

What is your greatest fear?

My greatest fear is that life without my much older husband, Roland, won’t be worth living.

What is your most treasured possession?

My collection of family photographs, so whenever I start to feel the terribly depressing isolation of being orphaned too soon, I can live in my beautiful childhood for a moment and see my parents as I remember them.

Which living person do you most admire?

Sorry, but it’s Roland, whose story is filmic and grand and who has my heart forever.

Locals oppose 'horrendous' redesign of Regal Heights intersection

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As if on cue, a few minutes into an interview with Regal Heights neighbourhood resident and community activist Dave Meslin about a local intersection redesign at the corner of Regal Road and Springmount Avenue, a couple of young men drive by the newly designed intersection in a van and comment  “stupid f***ing plastic things.” 

Neighbourhood streets are increasingly dangerous, and with the city having a hard time implementing its Vision Zero agenda, local residents are creating their own solutions, whether it be signs telling motorists to slow down, or a hashtag inviting people to share their experiences of dangerous roadways. But when neighbourhood activism meets city bureaucracy the collision between the two can be “messy,” according to Meslin. 

This is a neighbourhood, adjacent to Wychwood, with some history of community activism and public space projects. 

Last year, he and a few of his neighbours got together and temporarily transformed the intersection of Regal Road and Springmount Avenue into something that put pedestrian safety first, while also highlighting the amount of wasted public space that could be put to better use.

Essentially, they rearranged the intersection with chalk and leaves raked from a neighbouring slice of greenery. The fix, though temporary, worked wonders and freed up a couple thousand square feet of public space. News of the project went viral. 


Meslin and residents redesigned the intersection with chalk and leaves in late 2017. 

 

“It was a fun project and a way to point out to neighbours that there was all this extra space, and instead of pavement it could be who knows what: trees, grass, a merry-go-round, whatever,” said Meslin

After some consultation, the City of Toronto decided to give the large and dangerous intersection a look. Enter the stupid f***ing plastic things. 

According to Meslin, the Regal Heights Gateway Project, when complete, will have greenery, flowers and trees as the focal point of a newly designed intersection that offers both safety and beauty. 

“The first reaction from neighbours is that this is horrendous.”

But the city moved quickly on the safety side of the ledger, installing white plastic bollards and splashing down white paint with the green space enhancements not due until the fall. As a result, Meslin is knee-deep in neighbourhood complaints. 

“The first reaction from neighbours is that this is horrendous,” said Meslin. 

“It’s really ugly and unnatural,” added Allan Novak, another local resident who first spoke out against the project but has since come to understand the full scope of it. 

“The final version will have no bollards, tons of green space, and it will be safer,” said Meslin. “To me, it’s about green space. Why have 2,000 square feet of concrete when you can make it green.”

As soon as the bollards went up, Meslin snuck out at night with a couple of cans of spray paint and painted the white plastic sticks green to at least blend in a bit more with the surroundings.

He also put up an information page on a pole outlining the plan to green the intersection and lose the bollards. Across from the utility pole, a large binder sits, offering a differing viewpoint of the project and instructing neighbours who oppose it to contact Meslin.

Some neighbours are concerned over losing a few street parking spots, some think the fix was unnecessary, and others think it is just an eyesore. Others love the safety aspect, including the curb ramps at an intersection that was once near impossible to cross in certain directions with wheelchairs or strollers.

Local resident Jennifer Wigmore, one of the chief leaf rakers of last year, said she spoke with city workers during the installation of the intersection. 

“I saw them at the beginning and end of day,” she said. “By end of day, they said they couldn’t believe how many times they almost got killed. They were so upset by the end of the day.”

Meslin is set to follow up with city staff on the outstanding issues and said organizing a public meeting to more fully inform residents of the longer term vision is imperative and will happen soon.

Midtown skyscraper designed to minimize shadows

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Homeowners across the GTA may be breathing a collective sigh of relief when it comes to condo shadows.

Many of the area’s existing towers lack groundbreaking architectural design, so when renowned architect Jeanne Gang of Studio Gang set her sights on a tower in midtown, much buzz ensued.

Slate Asset Management, which owns 10 properties in the area, brought Gang on to design a mixed-use tower at the southwest corner of Yonge and Delisle.

A unique piece of architecture, the 16-sided tower is designed to reduce shadows on the surrounding neighbourhood and focuses on increased outdoor living spaces for its inhabitants with large balconies or terraces for each unit.

The team says this tower is a new model for sustainable urban growth.

Carter’s Joanne Boland on how she met her husband

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Actors Joanne Boland, of CTV’s Carter, and Dylan Trowbridge of YouTube Premium’s Impulse, met in a church 18 years ago. This is how the pair’s whirlwind romance kicked off.

How they met 
Dylan: On Jan. 19, 2000, I got a phone call. Some friends of mine were doing a musical at the Berkeley Church, and they needed someone to tend bar. The venue was packed, and I was a novice bartender, but I was slinging drinks and cracking jokes, and things seemed to be going all right. Then a beautiful stranger approached the bar. I can’t remember what she ordered, but I was gobsmacked and I screwed up her change — very badly. There was no justifiable mathematical logic to my error. She politely walked away. I collected myself, did some quick math and realized my mistake. I was embarrassed but excited to have a reason to go talk to her. I was self-deprecating and apologetic. She was gracious and amused. Same night, hours later we ran into each other at the Green Room in the Annex. And then, very late on Valentine’s Day, last call at the Green Room (again), we saw each other. Then either I asked her out, or she asked me out. The debate continues.…

The first date 
Dylan: March 9, 2000. Gorgeous night. Drinks at the Green Room. Saw a play. Late dinner at Insomnia. As we were walking east on Bloor Street, an eccentric, older gentleman zeroed in on us and slowly approached. He seemed to be assessing us. Then a huge smile overcame him, and he declared “You two are going to get married!” At the end of the night we kissed at Bathurst station.

The courtship 
Joanne: Our courtship was filled with awesome road trips. We used to put destinations in a hat and pick one, and that would determine where we ended up, though it didn’t always work out that way. Our first car we got together was an old VW, and our goal was to drive to Boston but we hit a hideous snowstorm. We detoured to Barneveld, N.Y., and ended up in a motel and got a pizza from the restaurant next door. We couldn’t figure out how the heat worked in the room and so we bundled up and watched silly movies on TV. It was heaven.

The proposal 
Joanne: I asked him to marry me three months after our first date. That was 18 years ago.

The wedding 
Dylan: We were married on Sept. 1, 2003, at Navy Hall in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Joanne was shooting a series that summer, and I was working at the Shaw Festival, so I offered to plan the whole thing. I had never been to a wedding before ours, so I really had no idea what I was doing. The ceremony was short, sweet and irreverent. The reverend had hip-hop “walk up” music, and Joanne walked down the aisle to the theme from Amelie. We had a rockabilly band, a massive barbecue, and there was a Labour Day fireworks display across the river. The Shaw Festival company and Joanne’s show pooled together a honeymoon fund for us. We went to Negril, Jamaica, where we went scuba diving, cliff jumping and water-skiing.

Secret to success
Joanne: Sunday date night at home. We have roti and a bottle of wine and watch a show. We started it in 2009, and even when we lived in Stratford, we would buy a couple of rotis when we were in Toronto and then freeze them — game changer.

Carter premieres on CTV on July 24, and Impulse is currently streaming on YouTube Premium.

Jane Lockhart on her path to design success

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Jane Lockhart, now an award-winning designer, developed a passion for design at an early age but a career in design wasn’t always her goal. Little did she know that she would later have two hit design shows, One House, Two Looks and Colour Confidential, which aired across the U.S. and Canada. 

After graduating from Branksome Hall, Lockhart started her post-secondary life as an economics student. The original plan was to move on to a post-graduate architecture program, but the pull of design was strong — something she partly attributes to the comprehensive art education she received at Branksome Hall. 

“I had an amazing art teacher, Mary Simpson, all the way from Grade 10 to 13, and that really helped me understand art, art history and architecture and the political and economic forces that inspired art throughout history,” she says. 

When she made the leap from economics to design, she headed to Ryerson for a bachelor of applied arts in interior design and subsequently launched Jane Lockhart Interior Design in 1997.

Prior to starting her own firm, Lockhart worked at Benjamin Moore in their retail design department. At the same time, she began providing design expertise on television for Cityline, soon after which HGTV came calling. 

“HGTV came on board in Canada and called me to audition for a show. I needed to make a decision: stay in corporate or leave and do the TV show,” she says. 

But since the TV show One House, Two Looks didn’t pay very well, she had to make another leap. 

“The show paid almost nothing, which is why I had to start a design firm. I always knew I would start my own firm, but it happened way sooner that I thought.”

She dove right in. 

“I had no idea how to even write an invoice. I didn’t even have a car, so I rode my bike to see the first client I had and hid it around the corner so they didn’t know I didn’t have a car,” Lockhart says. 

While running her firm full­-time, Lockhart was also hosting, writing and designing spaces for her television series Colour Confidential

And along with her guest expert spots on Cityline, she has also appeared as an expert on The Marilyn Denis Show

Since her firm’s beginnings in 1997, Lockhart’s profile has grown exponentially, with clients all over the world, from Spain to Singapore. 

One of the things Lockhart is most proud of, in addition to doing high-quality design work, is teaching other designers how to deliver excellent design drawings.  

“We really think about that process,” she says. “I can make it so you don’t fight with your husband in the kitchen because you keep getting in each other’s way,” she says as an example of how space, when used correctly, can create more harmony in the home. 

In 2011, Lockhart began designing Canadian-built, eco-conscious luxury furniture collections called Jane Lockhart Platinum and Jane by Jane Lockhart available at retailers across Canada. 

For any aspiring designers, Lockhart emphasizes the importance of learning as much as you can in the time you have and to always continue learning. 

“In design you never stop learning.” 

She also points out that design isn’t just what you see on TV. 

“TV is TV. Design is design. Expect it to be harder than what you see onscreen and know that there is going to be a learning curve,” she says. 

Three picnic baskets perfect for an afternoon at the park

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Each summer, droves of city dwellers and suburbanites alike leave the comfort of their (hopefully) air-conditioned abodes to enjoy eating alfresco with their loved ones in one of the wonderful parks and green spaces the city has to offer.
Spice up your love life and  increase your score on the spontaneity meter with these three gourmet basket providers.

Gourmet on the go
After graduating from the Culinary Business Academy, personal chef Linda Werner started up her own business. In addition to her meal delivery service and dinner party catering, she also puts together high-end picnic baskets on request.

For $175 (which includes tax, delivery and pickup),  she’ll whip up an epicurean meal for two with all the fixings. Pair gourmet sandwich options, like the shrimp po’ boy, grilled flank steak, or avocado white bean wrap with chipotle slaw, with your choice of salads (salad niçoise or antipasto salad, to name two).

Nibble on hummus with crackers and fruit salad, and enjoy your choice of oatmeal raisin walnut cookies, vanilla cannoli or cupcakes for dessert.

Werner’s left nothing to chance with this basket. She includes a blanket that can also double as a tablecloth, plates, cups, cutlery and napkins, so that you have everything you need.

To ensure availability, order a week in advance. Baskets can be delivered all over the city, from Etobicoke to East York to North York, so they are easily consumed at the park, at your home or at a party.

myeverydaygourmet.com, 416-451-3520

Fun and games
Conveniently located next to Trinity Bellwoods Park,  the County General has quite the (delicious) reputation for its buttermilk fried chicken and hearty brunch. But one of the biggest draws is its food- and activity-filled picnic baskets.

You can order items from the menu like beef dip (chipotle marinated flank steak, caramelized onions, chicken thyme gravy) and the grilled cheese (smoked Guelph cheddar, caramelized onions, sourdough bread), and the friendly staff will pack them all up for you and load them into a basket.

There’s also a checkered blanket and your choice of games (including bocce ball, croquet and football and Frisbee) to entertain you after your meal.

Although there’s no charge for the basket and games rental, guests must leave a valid credit card at the restaurant until the basket’s return.

936 Queen St. W., 416-531-4447

Park side luxury
Another Trinity Bellwoods fave is H Bar, an unassuming local bar with some tasty options. The simple basket for two ($35) comes with your choice of sandwiches or wraps (including pulled pork, chicken salad and veggie), two sides (like salad and fries) and a civilized number of cookies (six, to be exact).

Or, if you’re feeling a little bit fancy, grab the deluxe basket for two ($50). Instead of sandwiches, this package includes two focaccia flatbreads, two portions of chicken or veggie kebabs, a salad topped with pickled veggies and chips and dip. It’s all capped off with a summer berry pudding, more of those aforementioned cookies and two Franklin & Sons sodas.

It costs $30 to rent the blanket and the basket for up to 24 hours, but you get $15 back upon their safe return. Both packages come with a Frisbee.

859 Queen St. W., 647-352-4227

Thornhill teens get a side of entrepreneurship with their summer jobs

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A number of Thornhill teenagers have found unique ways to make money on their own time, set their own summer work schedule and flex their entrepreneurial skills –– in fact, this option has gotten so popular, even the adults have capitalized on it, through a new startup.

Student Garage Cleaning was founded in June by Thornhill teens Daniel Torch, Yoni Hermannoff, Jarod Rosen, Josh Levin and Josh Forberg. They all have part-time jobs but wanted to pool their skills and make more money to cover tuition for when they all head off to university in September.

“We formed a team because any task that one person can perform is not as good as when you have other people contributing to the idea,” said Torch. “People bring opposing views, which helps you see other perspectives on how to market, how to finance and other day-to-day operations.”

After they settled on garage cleaning, they tackled this new business with the mindset befitting a tech entrepreneur: delegating accounting responsibilities to the soon-to-be finance student at York University’s Schulich School of Business and social media to two of their savviest Instagrammers.

“A lot of people feel that in [regular] part-time jobs they have very little say on day-to-day operations,” said Torch. “What separates our business is we’re five friends, but we’re also five executives in the business.”

Zachary Leyderman, an 18-year-old Richmond Hill student, has also found executive freedom after he started teaching kids how to cycle last August once his contract for a previous job at a bike camp ran out.

“Working for myself is the most fun kind of work I’ve done so far,” said Leyderman. “It’s given me a lot of opportunities to understand finance better. I used to have organizational problems. I think this is helping me practise that.”

Paolo Spiluttini, a father in Thornhill Woods, was inspired by his teenage son’s enthusiasm for mowing his neighbour’s lawn and started TaskYourNeighbour.com, a website that allows people to post their services online, ranging from lawn mowing to French tutoring, on a platform that connects them with potential clients. In its first two weeks, the site garnered 30 posts by individual “taskers,” mostly students between the ages of 16 and 18, and a few from local full-time parents.

“It’s to engage teens and students in the community to perform tasks at a low rate, [while] giving the opportunity for teens and students to get some responsibilities and occupy their time in a better, more efficient and productive way,” said Spiluttini.

Egg waffles are this summer’s biggest hit

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Hong Kong waffles, egg puffs, eggettes, egglettes, puffles or, as they’re called in their native Cantonese, gai daan jai (which translates into “little chicken eggs”)–– whatever you want to call them, these honeycomb-shaped waffles have transformed from a simple childhood treat into a globally ubiquitous and incredibly photogenic ice cream hybrid. Rooted in Hong Kong’s rich street food scene, eggettes are made with a simple batter of egg, flour, sugar and evaporated milk, historically fired over a charcoal grill. The prototypical Toronto eggette is served hot and unadorned from a stand at the entrance of the Chinatown Centre or in the Heritage Town section of Pacific Mall. Cooled to crisp perfection while still retaining a warm, soft interior, the folded waffle is slipped into a paper bag and torn off one sphere at a time, making it the perfect walk-and-shop snack. However, new generations of crafty bakers have revamped the concept, adding sweet and savoury toppings (think ube-flavoured ice cream or, previously unthinkable, mac ’n’ cheese) and integrating flavours like pandan, red bean and even Chinese sausage into the batter.

The classic
For many Chinese people who grew up in Toronto, the warm aroma of eggettes filling the Dragon City Mall vestibule acts as a kind of Proustian madeleine, catapulting us back to our childhoods. Those waffle stands are still open for that hit of nostalgia, but a cosy new sit-down option can be found at One Pear Cafe. The retro–Hong Kong theme is immediately apparent in the vintage film posters plastered on the wall, as well as in the menu, chock full of  beloved Hong Kong street snacks and bevvies, including curry fish balls, pineapple buns and silk stocking tea. Their waffles are freshly made to order (unlike at the mall stands, which leave theirs sitting out for the next customer), and are light, almost hollow, with a thin and crispy exterior.
One Pear Cafe, 201 Dundas St. W, 647-926-9918.

The modern-traditional
Dessert culture in Hong Kong and China, where small cafés churn out a dizzying procession of matcha sundaes piled high with ice cream, whipped cream and red bean topping; bowls of sesame seed dumplings floating in a spicy ginger broth; and sago with seasonal fruits and balls of mochi, has extended into Toronto.

Sugar Marmalade, with locations across the GTA, offers pages upon pages of exquisitely crafted Asian desserts, both traditional and modern. Communally enjoyable, their egg waffles are doughy enough to support a scoop of black sesame seed ice cream, chunks of mango and whipped cream, and are served with a drizzle of condensed milk and a cookie roll for good measure.

The mad scientist 
The modern version of the conical eggette waffle is as a vehicle for an artful twist of ice cream. This Instagrammable iteration is widely credited to Hong Kong gelato shop Oddies Foodies, which made its first hybrid treat in 2014. Since then, the form has taken off across the world, with new and ever more inventive combinations created daily.

Nestled in a discreet corner of a mall food court in Markham, Wooffles & Cream is one such purveyor, with eggette batters incorporated with cookies and cream, crushed peanuts and even savoury Chinese sausage and seaweed. The soft-serve flavours rotate weekly: some weeks, it’s a twist of matcha and vanilla; other days it’s milk tea. Always, however, it’s a surprise.
Wooffles & Cream, 8361 Kennedy Rd., #81, 647-281-0487. 

Anne Michaels on her work as Toronto's poet laureate

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Toronto’s current Poet Laureate, Anne Michaels, was a diligent Vaughan Road Collegiate student who still fondly remembers the teachers who made an impact on her. She lists all-star teachers like Wayne Fairhead, Gordon Cameron and Helen Porter, who made her time at Vaughan Road a very special experience with their brilliance, devotion and sophisticated curricula. 

During her time at Vaughan Road she was also composing music for the Inside Outside Theatre Company.

After high school, Michaels, who always had a sense writing was her calling, attended the University of Toronto to study English literature. 

Although composing music was a formidable passion for Michaels, writing poetry and prose was her prevailing dream. So she opted to put pen to paper and develop her craft, instead of pursuing academia.

“I was ready, I thought, to learn on my own,” she says. “I knew there were years of work ahead that would just be writing, revising, researching.”

After publishing her first few award-winning collections of poetry The Weight of Oranges, 1986, and Miner’s Pond, 1991, she decided to pursue longer works of fiction, to shake off the limitations of poetry. 

“What I wanted to say and how I wanted to say it could only be projected in a novel,” says Michaels. “I needed hundreds of pages to get across material that was difficult to face and comprehend.”

Her debut novel, Fugitive Pieces, was released in 1996 to intense critical acclaim, winning dozens of awards, including the Orange Prize, Guardian Fiction Prize, the Trillium and was shortlisted for the Giller Prize. The novel was also adapted as a screenplay by Canadian director Jeremy Podeswa and was the gala opening at TIFF in 2007. 

For the past three years, she has been granted the immense honour of representing Toronto as Poet Laureate. 

“It’s been a very interesting role. Those who hold it can make of it what they wish. For me it’s been about celebrating the many languages of literature in Toronto. There are over 200 languages used in this city,” Michaels says. 

She is working to bridge the gap between Toronto’s many cultures and languages and Canadian literature. 

“There is a large Bengali population that has done wonderful events. Currently, they are publishing their own books in Bengali and English,” she says. “This would be such a great resource for the city.

Imagine the richness and power if other language groups did the same.”

Toronto’s Photo Laureate, Geoffrey James, the very first of his kind worldwide, is now working in collaboration with Michaels. The two artists will correspond in pictures and words to create a dialogue that will eventually become a work of fiction. The piece is operating under the working title United Marble.

Can two dine at T.O.’s swankiest French resto on a budget?

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Sitting down at Brandon Olsen’s French affair, La Banane, we know we’re in for torture. Every plate that whizzes by tempts us. From the perfectly glazed duck breast with endives to the elegantly braided sea bass en croute, it’s all a feast for the eyes. And alas, that will have to sate us because we’re here on a mission: to dine on a hundo at the poshest spot on the Ossington strip.

An alcohol-free evening
It’s Monday. Both of us are cranky. Our moods aren’t helped by the fact that we’ve been sat opposite La Banane’s raw bar. Presumably our strict budget won’t afford us any of the sea jewels beckoning from beyond the glass.

We order tap water with a sigh. The poor server knows there’ll be no up-sales here and doesn’t bother navigating us through the Prohibition-era cocktails.

Stretching the budget
We usually delight in doing the math to make a meal work for our Post City allowance, but today we’re keen to take the path of least resistance. There’s a single dish for $105: the mini plateau. It’s slightly more than we’re allowed to spend, but we shan’t be fettered by a measly Sir Wilfrid Laurier. Based on the adjective “mini” we brace ourselves to leave hungry.

The food arrives
An epi pretzel manifests in front of us. We hoover the chewy morsel. The crumb-free plate is whisked away and replaced by a silver tray heavy with ocean treasures. There’s no way this is the mini plateau — they must’ve misheard our order. We double check with the waitress: Did we accidentally level up to the petit plateau? Or perhaps the grand plateau? But there’s no error. We give each other a sly grin. This cornucopia is indeed the mini.

A seafood feast for two
It’s piled high with bivalves and crustaceans: A heap of cold, plump mussels, which have been marinated in an espelette pepper vinaigrette, takes centre stage. Meanwhile, a dozen oysters sit in the orchestra pit, moving from Lucky Lime to Raspberry Point to the plump Beausoleil (the real crowd-pleaser). Tucked nonchalantly to the left is a half lobster (served with beurre monté sauce) and, on the right, five cocktail shrimp. The feast is crowned by a raw scallop marinated in a bath of champagne, garlic and buttermilk dotted with chive oil. We dine slowly, savouring every bite while happily ogling all the characters in the artful room.

Now this is a Monday.

La Banane, 227 Ossington Ave., (416) 551- 6263

Giulietta, Little Italy’s big new attraction

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I am often sentimental and very driven in that sentimental respect by taste memory. I recently met a guy in a store and found out that his dad owned a restaurant where I had adored the gateau basque 30 years ago. On the spot, the guy could have sold me anything. And so it was with Giulietta, the new resto from two guys who have all my attention — and my taste buds on high alert. They are Rob Rossi and David Minicucci.

Rossi closed my beloved Bestellen a year ago. That restaurant produced my fave red meat in town, a sexy steak with oozing marrow studded with coarse salt and parsley. Minicucci and Rossi also own my equally adored L’Unità, a superb pizza ’n’ pasta bistro at Ave and Dav.

They revamped the old Bestellen space, using very cool tones of grey, fabric on the walls to absorb sound and clever tubular lights. The aesthetic is turbo-charged, thanks to touches like old silver flatware: Minicucci bought 3,000 pieces of silver and spent a week polishing them.

And we love the servers. Minicucci runs the front of the house like a tuned Maserati, all grace and efficiency. You want wine? A knowledgeable wine waiter explains, offers tastes, oozes warmth. As do the food servers, and they too exude professionalism.

Maybe my #1 dish is the octopus, which chef Rossi poaches for three hours to tenderize it. Then he grills and finishes it in the blistering hot wood oven to add a crispy char. Heaven! Sitting this divine creature on splendidly creamy borlotti beans with dots of fabulous puckery salmorglio, sauce made from lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, oregano and parsley, is inspired. We’re also blown away by the funghi trifolati—hen of the woods and other fungal exotica in lemon-scented brown butter with gilded garlic cloves.

We are not, however, so in love with olives wrapped in sausage meat and deep-fried. This reads more sophisticated than it eats. Same for tubular pasta in white wine tomato sauce with seafood. Nicely cooked seafood in bland tomato sauce. Better mains are classic char-blistered pizzas from the wood oven. By far the most interesting is La Giulietta, a classic white Sicilian pizza with smoked scamorza and cream under melting pig fat and pistachios.

But one has a slight feeling of gastro-boredom. The bland tomato sauce, the weird olives and then the slightly unfortunate gianduja cake for dessert. Gianduja, in my world, is next to godliness. What could be better than a compendium of dark chocolate and toasted pulverized hazelnuts? But this gianduja cake schmecks of corn syrup and resembles a not-quite-moist-enough flourless chocolate cake. Not even close to as good as the sweet wet boozy baba au rhum topped with mascarpone cream and candied orange.

Consistency is the name of the game here. Or at least it should be. This is a serious kitchen with all best intentions, and some great chops. They just need to get it all under control and up to the same high standard.

Giulietta, 972 College St West, (416) 964 – 0606.

People power needed to combat Crosstown construction

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Anyone who lives anywhere near midtown knows first-hand how difficult it is to drive on Eglinton Avenue. The construction of the LRT has made a real mess of things. As hard as it is to drive along Eglinton, trying to keep a business open is even harder.

This is the largest transit project in the country and it cuts right through the centre of Toronto, impacting businesses. Although retailers knew that the construction would be a nuisance and have an impact on business, few realized the length and extent of the disruption.

The Eglinton Way BIA has done a great job of reducing the impact of construction on patrons and also promoting the area, but has also reported businesses suffering and closures. 

The stores that have shuttered are not major chains but local merchants, many of whom had been in business for many years. Several of the storefronts that are still in business along Eglinton are obstructed, sidewalks are narrowed and new walkways created around heavy equipment. It is also harder to drive and park.

These businesses are critical for the health and vitality of our neighbourhoods, so city hall is trying to help the remaining stores. The mayor has pledged free parking and funds for marketing of the local areas as an incentive to encourage more shoppers to visit the area. 

Many of the businesses are asking for compensation for lost earnings. Although store owners have a compelling case, it is very difficult to provide compensation as a result of construction. 

Transit construction does have a particularly significant and lengthy impact, but compensating for economic losses during construction is difficult since this happens across the city all year round. The City of Toronto has never provided such compensation and wouldn’t do so because then the cost of construction projects would become prohibitive. 

Similarly in 2006, during the St. Clair Avenue right-of-way construction, retailers attempted to get compensation. Many did not survive the construction. 

There was no funding for small businesses, but in an attempt to bring shoppers back to the area, the local councillor advocated for easier transit use for local shoppers by offering two-hour rides along the streetcar once operational.

Another comparable example is the construction of the Canada Line in Vancouver. During that period, affected merchants launched a class action suit against the contractor for damages. Although they were not able to sue the contractor, they were able to collect compensation if they could prove the value of their lease was negatively impacted by the construction of the Canada Line. It is unclear how many merchants actually received compensation.

In Toronto, it is unlikely that a class action suit would be successful, but small businesses could see a reduction of their property taxes if their MPAC assessment shows that the value of the property declined during the construction period. 

The Eglinton LRT is scheduled for completion in 2021. 

Until then, local residents should help support the small businesses along Eglinton and visit the shops. With new parking provisions, it might even be easier to find a parking spot than at the mall.